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Blak bart said:
View attachment 2133043
Yes...the weather backed off, and we went from 100mph to zero in 24 hours. The whole fleet struggled yesterday, and the greatest sailfish bite in south Florida history ended !! Captain tucker(the fish whisperer) caught 65 on the good day, and broke the daily record. Yesterday we missed 4 and caught 1. Our captains son came out with us and I was able to get him his first sailfish after 20 years of trying !! We caught a mahi, a kingfish, a Bonita, and one sailfish......we had another sailfish close.....maybe 2 feet from the leader, but he outplayed us after 20 minutes, and got off !! Off I go again !! Sore but slightly refreshed from a slower paced day !!
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We have solid teak gunnels and cockpit flooring. It is grade A and the port and starboard top boards are currently 9000$ each.....the back contoured gunnel top is even bigger and more 💰 money !! The combing pads are also solid teak and are custom contoured to be soft on the thighs.

As for the care and up keep, there is no sealer, or finish.....not even oil. Just raw teak !! Every 3 months the teak is professionally cleaned with 2 part teak cleaner......it will go grayish in color by the 3 month mark....some times quicker if I'm fishing alot, and sometimes it last a bit longer when covered by the cockpit cover.

I prefer snappy teak 2 part cleaner....a very potent cleaner the first part will melt flesh after prolonged exposure to raw skin.....you will peel skin in layers if you don't protect yourself, and stainless steel, chrome, aluminum are easily eteched by these cleaners unless water is constantly applied to these metals.....if the cleaner stays on and does not get rinsed, it will be damaged....even paint can be permanently damaged if not rinsed properly. The second part is just as bad on flesh, but it not to bad on the metals and paint....this second treatment neutralizes the first acid, and imparts a golden tone to the wood. During our once a year haul out we have the teak sanded.....I used to do this, but now I hire the " teak sheik" they charge us 4500 to sand it all out.

This is how all sportfishes with teak cockpits work, and are layed out.....all other teak on the boat, such as cabin sole, toe rail, and transom are varnished or more commonly today coated in acrylic urethane clears, for superior U.V. resistance. So the flooring stays raw, or oiled most boats, and the combing pads and gunnels stay raw on fishing boats. All these parts of the boat come in contact with flesh, and that is why it's left raw....its soft, but gives a no slip type texture.

For us that's are only teak on the exterior of our boat. The stuff that looks discolored is because it's wet in some places, and dry in others. Once it's all dry it all looks the same color. There is a certain technique to using the 2 part teak cleaner, and you should be only scrubbing across grain. Going with the grain, or using the teak cleaner excessively will cause pulp loss, and thinning of the boards....in other words you can wear the teak thin prematurely by excessively sanding and using the 2 part cleaners. That's why it's allowed to go grey before cleaning. Some people like the silver weathered look....I don't, so after the abuse of this trip with fish blood, scales, and dings, I'll end up redoing the teak in mid March, ... my boat has only lightly used since September and been covered, so im way over due, but its stayed nice until this month now its being abused with heavy fishing.....my favorite way to wear out the teak !!
 

Blak bart said:
We have solid teak gunnels and cockpit flooring. It is grade A and the port and starboard top boards are currently 9000$ each.....the back contoured gunnel top is even bigger and more 💰 money !! The combing pads are also solid teak and are custom contoured to be soft on the thighs.

As for the care and up keep, there is no sealer, or finish.....not even oil. Just raw teak !! Every 3 months the teak is professionally cleaned with 2 part teak cleaner......it will go grayish in color by the 3 month mark....some times quicker if I'm fishing alot, and sometimes it last a bit longer when covered by the cockpit cover.

I prefer snappy teak 2 part cleaner....a very potent cleaner the first part will melt flesh after prolonged exposure to raw skin.....you will peel skin in layers if you don't protect yourself, and stainless steel, chrome, aluminum are easily eteched by these cleaners unless water is constantly applied to these metals.....if the cleaner stays on and does not get rinsed, it will be damaged....even paint can be permanently damaged if not rinsed properly. The second part is just as bad on flesh, but it not to bad on the metals and paint....this second treatment neutralizes the first acid, and imparts a golden tone to the wood. During our once a year haul out we have the teak sanded.....I used to do this, but now I hire the " teak sheik" they charge us 4500 to sand it all out.

This is how all spotfishes with teak cockpits work, and are layed out.....all other teak on the boat, such as cabin sole, toe rail, and transom are varnished or .ore commonly today coated in acrylic urethane clears, for superior U.V. resistance. So the flooring stays raw, or oiled most boats, and the combing pads and gunnels stay raw on fishing boats. All these parts of the boat come in contact with flesh, and that is why it's left raw....its soft, but gives a no slip type texture.

For us that's are only teak on the exterior of our boat. The stuff that looks discolored is because it's wet in some places, and dry in others. Once it's all dry it all looks the same color. There is a certain technique to using the 2 part teak cleaner, and you should be only scrubbing across grain. Going with the grain, or using the teak cleaner excessively will cause pulp loss, and thinning of the boards....in other words you can wear the teak thin prematurely by excessively sanding and using the 2 part cleaners. That's why it's allowed to go grey before cleaning. Some people like the silver weathered look....I don't, so after the abuse of this trip with fish blood, scales, and dings, I'll end up redoing the teak in mid March, ... my boat has only lightly used since September and been covered, so im way over due, but its stayed nice until this month now its being abused with heavy fishing.....my favorite way to wear out the teak !!
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Bart... if i did em they would look like popping wood GLASS. :)

7 separate HEAVY coats minimum of some good spar honey with high UV and the grain will pop and wow.
And... impervious to damage if done right... will hold for years looking great.

Best part... if it is not left too long ... another couple coat update and its back to pop and wow.
 

ARC said:
Bart... if i did em they would look like popping wood GLASS. :)

7 separate HEAVY coats minimum of some good spar honey with high UV and the grain will pop and wow.
And... impervious to damage if done right... will hold for years looking great.

Best part... if it is not left too long ... another couple coat update and its back to pop and wow.
Click to expand...
Your hired....can you be here Monday??
 

releventchair said:
Oregon cedar might be priced better there.
(Oh I'm so funny!)
Click to expand...
Actually most of my builds use red cedar, Bug proof, rot proof, better then even old growth redwood. Years ago the best prices were from Canada. Multiple semi loads at a time!
 

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