All of this stuff is pretty weathered. I am going to put that renisance (sp?) wax on it. I think? Can I use that on the wood? Will it help save it from getting worse? I’m going to put what I can under the porch roof of the shed. That big yoke is too big. It will either be on the back of the shed or inside. What about that old bird feeder? I think that is super cool. The Mr WD is going to take the sausage stuffer/fruit press and soak it in oil to see if he can get it working. We were pulling out of the driveway and the guy waved us down and handed him the John Deere thing. I’m not sure about that one. Besides, his tractor is a Newholland.
Pretty weathered. It is that!
Wood on the cheap you can use used motor oil and paint it on , let it soak in and repeat. (with caution as it is not good for you , wear gloves).
Hot days are the best but anytime will do.
I know a guy (not me) that paints his new hunting blinds with used oil to preserve them.
I've read of it being used in chicken coops to keep parasites down. It gets in the cracks good where they can hide/survive a wash down.
Tung oil or linseed oil will work on your wood too , but aren't as cheap.
One will show waterspots. Big deal. I forgot which one. Tung oil maybe.
Linseed oil leaves a nice finish on wood that's still good. Warmed and rubbed in by hand , your hand warms it too. Multiple applications for gunstocks ect. With a day in between. Again hot weather is better , but anytime.
You can use waste oil on the metal too. Worst rust you couldn't scrape off with a flat piece of wood (so not to scratch areas down to bare metal and ruin the patina) should flake off eventually. Leaving a controlled rust layer to oil. If real bad spots dry on the edges before they flake , paint them again.
You're aware of using molasses or coke or vinegar to clean rusty metal.
The cost and containers to submerge in keeps me from doing such.
Nothing says you can't use clean motor oil either. Wear gloves though. Or your old mans gear lube or boat motor lower unit partial bottles instead of engine oil. (Maybe ask him first...)
After wire brushing rusty lantern parts like the burner frames that are often bad and plating gone or mostly gone , I just oil most.
Others get a citric acid bath. Then oiled. Not over cleaning them but getting the loose or built up bad areas smooth.
I haven't used electrolysis on any lantern parts yet. I'm not trying to make them look new. Besides , the lanterns I score are usually rough anyways. I'm just getting them to a preserved and usable state. With some surprises of how much a good clean up does for the worst.
But for all that.... If I had your stuff , knocking the worst rust off and oiling the rusted metal does a good job. Just my opinion though. I do the same on other old rusted items.
A dark finish results. Vs, that fresh light colored rust from air hitting it. Which cleaned off metal will do if we don't oil it.
You see it showing any fresh rust some day , oil it again. A quick wipe with an oily rag. Lint free rag/cloth if you're more picky than me.
Side note , powdery rust scraped off was a substitute for sulfur in blackpowder recipes of old.
(Functioned as a rapid oxidizer. And lowered required ignition temp.)
🏴☠️ SURF_PIRATE 🏴☠️
