Good morning all.
RC, thank you for the auction link.
I have always wanted a cub.
No rush. Be unlike me and get familier with them and look at some offered for sale before pouncing on one. Or don't if it runs and is cheap enough. L.o.l..
Rims filled with corrosive saline solution for weight still turn up. And if tire valves are not parked in the right position leak onto rims corroding them. (Yep , I have examples!) New rims can be bought at around a hundred a piece. But original style bolts won't fit. Plus changing tires. (Front end has to be wedged so not to tip tractor over with wheels off the rear. It has a flex point in the front that will let it tip).
Tires can look pretty bad and still be usable. But affect the value of a tractor too when shopping.
I've seen gloves and rags sticking out of the sidewalls of tubed tires to reduced herniated tubes in bad tires. Not really what we're after. Price dependent of course..
IF you hit that auction let me know in advance. Doubt it's time to buy or that funds can go such a direction currently.
But I could try to meet you there to look it over pre bidding. Then hope no one else is very enthused.
I've the couple Cubs if you want to hands on learn what to look out for.
How to run one and common things making them not run.
Till you (or I) are real familier , buying a nonrunner has great risks.
And a poor runner could have multiple reasons for running poor.
Neither of mine are in condition to solve your potential needs. One is just weary from decades of hard work. And will conk out in the heat for want of yet another magneto coil. (it mounts where it gets hot). The other has the loader which is heavy , and a near bald rear tire. And wanting new rear rims. A decent runner though. Throttle lever quadrant needs more filing of teeth to hold lever as they're worn in the sweet spot for running.
You learning some of how to try to get one running would pay off looking at a non runner like at auction. And beat trying to load a non runner on a trailer.
That one in White Cloud I'd want to know the engine is not seized up on.
Water getting in can stick valves too.
IF a Cub sits a long time , Like several months or more there is a way to prime the oil pump and some galleys. Preventing dry scrubbing of engine components.
A fluids check prior to trying start one. Thermosyphon cooling system's radiator (no waterpump) means radiator level is around 3-4 inches low looking. Or more.
Topping it off like a "normal" radiator means coolant will blow off as it heats.
(It'll run on straight water. But use an antifreeze. Which is why many have cracked bolsters from winter freezing.)
If the fuel system is contaminated there's no sense in trying to start it.
A pony tank could be rigged though. Many Cubs have a fine screen at the carburetor entrance that can't be seen till line is removed. When plugged up....No start. The main jet is easy enough to clean with a fine wire. But can be varnished from stale fuel.
Farmall Cub forum has lots of info.
And first time owners(and others) find it a great resource.