Didn't have any pedal when I tried to pick the car up from the shop.
They said no leaks.
It must be the master cylinder they said and they can't find one.
I had to find and order the last part.
It took five minutes.
If they don't want my business at Barnett's, they should grow some balls and say so.
Not keep my only ride going on six weeks.
Welcome to current times.
Waiting on parts....
Had they provided you a free loaner car there would be better communication. Absent that , it's pretty much on you to stay in touch.
Had two places tell me my brakes were fine on my rusty 3/4 ton truck. ( Places that have done lots of work on varied vehicles of mine over the years.)
Meanwhile they are coaster brakes ; in an optimistic sense.
Vacuum booster is getting wonky is the consensus on it too.
But I can pump the brakes a couple times after starting it and get enough brakes. Well , enough if I'm not tailgating anyways.
Fluid needs / should/could be flushed and bled usually when a booster gets replaced.
Brake work sucks on older vehicles.
Step one , snap off the bleeders.
Step two , round off line fittings trying to crack them for bleeding by using the wrong wrench.
Step three , use tranny fluid for penetrating oil (or go whole hog and mix it with
acetone) and soak fittings multiple times a day for multiple days. Then use vice grips to break fittings loose.
Or alternately, get a set of line wrenches day one and break a fitting off... Rather than loose.
Step four.
Kick left front tire and check for pedal travel after a couple gentle pumps. Note no appreciable gain.
Step five.
Remember the master cylinder is suspect. Start soaking rusted fittings with penetrant.
Kick right front tire and note no appreciable gain.
Step six.
Ponder the mystery of needing to make repeated trips to get parts and tools when your vehicle is out of commission because you are working on it.
9I could tell you a story about me with no way to get to a parts store miles away that was probably closed anyways one particular Saturday , but let's stick with the brake repairs instead.)
Kick left rear tire. Note no appreciable gain.
Step seven.
Locate another allegedly functional master cylinder. Acquire it.
Don't compare it to your old one until the old on is off. This ups the odds of it being the wrong part. But also ups the odds you didn't twist a line or break a fitting.
Kick right rear tire. Note no appreciable gain.
Step eight.
Replace "new" wrong master cylinder with the right one. Squinting at details helps this time.
Install new cylinder and notice you neglected to pick up any brake fluid.
Get in vehicle. DO NOT touch brake pedal.
Beat forehead against horn button(s). Note no appreciable change.
Step nine. Get lots of brake fluid. It will either be too much ; or too little. Your choice.
Now , with the most patience you have ever exhibited ; ask the Mrs. if she will help bleed the brake lines by pushing the brake pedal when you tell her. And release the pedal when you tell her.
Not all wives will agree. Mainly those who have been exposed to bleeding brakes. In which case skip to step fourteen and after you quit hopping around , gently massage your very bruised shins after being kicked.