Placer Claim Mined Out?

[desertgolddigger]

I belong to a local club that owns a claim. This club has had this claim for many years, and acquired it after the old timers had mined it previously, and others after they commercial outfits closed up.
I walked quite a bit of the 160 acre claim, and noted that just about every wash had been worked. Most of the surface nuggets has also been detected by those with gold detectors. In other words, this place has been picked over and over and over.
But I m a stubborn type of person, and I figured, just watching how people ram their puffer and blower drywashers, that some gold was just being blown through them. maybe not much, but some small stuff that never got a chance to settle behind the riffles.
I know many of you would never go to the effort of digging for three to four hours through the tailings in these washes. Again, I'm a bit stubborn, and anyway, I just wanted to have some fun locally, instead of driving 300 miles roundtrip to something that gives a little more for less effort.
I've spent the last three weeks, digging a few times a week along about 30 yards of wash, and have recovered just about a gram of gold. That might not seem like much, but I have only dug up 5 grams, not counting this one gram in almost 20 years out here drywashing in the desert of southern California.
As you would know, things always seem to go wrong. My gas powered blower motor decided it was time for the repair shop, and haven't heard from the shop in two weeks. So I purchased a WORX WG521 corded electric leaf blower to use with my Royal Large drywasher. I'm using a portable generator to provide the power. And it actually is working better than with my old gas powered blower. I have to run the blower on the lowest speed, or I just blow everything through the riffles. Results are very good, as I am getting gold specks so small that I will have to use the Blue bowl in order to recover them.
I'm not only getting a little gold, I'm having some fun, and I am getting a good workout. I've lost 10 pounds since I started. So things are going well.
I'm still digging test holes around the old time hard rock mines in the hope I will find where the gold has drifted downhill below these mines. So far just a couple specks here and there. I figure I just have to move laterally one way or the other before I get something better Of course, I' don't really know if the old timers stripped the hillsides. Even if they have, they apparently aren't as thorough as I am. I hope that I may be lucky and find a larger piece of gold that the old timers, previous placer miners, and detectorists have missed.
Hope everyone is having as much fun as I have been having.

 

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[Jim in Idaho]

Ours is an older model Jim, but the manual hasn't changed. We bought it new in 2006, then all hell broke loose in California with multiple mining partners deaths, divorces, cancer, county land closures, etc... so it's been sitting until last year when we gave up on the left coast & set up shop again here in Arizona.
Hopefully I can get a video up in a couple of weeks on it.

Reed, I'll be looking forward to that!
Jim

 

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[Jim in Idaho]

Ya know, Assembler, that linear motor drive controller that Orophilia used on his table may be programmable. He didn't say a lot about it in the video. Since it's electronic, I think a person could have it do about whatever you want. Wilfley's design does have a different speed in one direction than the other, which makes the heavies go up the table, even without a "bump" stop. The trouble with linear motors is that without a programmable controller, you get the same motion and speed both directions. As far as a fluid bed using air...that's pretty much what a dry washer does.
Jim

 

[Assembler]

Ya know, Assembler, that linear motor drive controller that Orophilia used on his table may be programmable. He didn't say a lot about it in the video. Since it's electronic, I think a person could have it do about whatever you want. Wilfley's design does have a different speed in one direction than the other, which makes the heavies go up the table, even without a "bump" stop. The trouble with linear motors is that without a programmable controller, you get the same motion and speed both directions. As far as a fluid bed using air...that's pretty much what a dry washer does.
Jim

The programmable controller is the key then to a electronic table. Will have to see what others are doing in that area before jumping in.
Thanks.

 

[desertgolddigger]

Finally started on the shaker table base. It's going to be a monster. The Table legs are 4x4's with two 2x4 cross pieces, which are then backed with 2x4's wedged behind and between the legs. Everything is glued and screwed together. Nails never worked for me, and my opinion is they don't hold very well.

Hopefully I can put the rest of the 2x4's on to get the basic structure finished.

I'll be backing the long axis 2x4's with 2x6's, and then another run of 2x4's to make movement in that direction very difficult.

Not sure If I should add eight diagonal braces. Opinions please. But remember, I only can work with wood. I don't have any way of working with metal.

The final process will be adding the top, one backing between the 2x4's, and on the ends using OSB to stiffen the whole thing.

 

[desertgolddigger]

The programmable controller is the key then to a electronic table. Will have to see what others are doing in that area before jumping in.
Thanks.

It's not that type of linear setup that requires a controller. It consists of two rails with four block bearings, and uses a linear reciprocating arm. I will be stuck with two options, 10 or 20mm stroke lengths. cpm will be made with a motor speed controller.

Assembler, please just stop with all the strange suggestions. I know, in your mind you are trying to help, but your suggestions are even strange to me, and some have cost me wasted money. I'm working with Jim in Idaho to get my shaker table built, as he actually has extensive experience experimenting and making his ideas work.

And please, no liquid sand posts on my thread, or things such as that. I want this thread to have good help for those who read. Hopefully they won't have to sift through stuff that just won't work.

 

[Assembler]

It's not that type of linear setup that requires a controller. It consists of two rails with four block bearings, and uses a linear reciprocating arm. I will be stuck with two options, 10 or 20mm stroke lengths. cpm will be made with a motor speed controller.

Jim has pointed out that by having a different travel speed in one direction will help the heavies to climb up hill.
This feature can also be in flow (action) with other process. That is why the reference to frequencies motion was made.

The reference to different flow rates of air in the above video is a function clearly pointed out in science and is so simple it has been used for the last 2,000 years or so by man.

Good luck on your build.

 

[southfork]

Finally started on the shaker table base. It's going to be a monster. The Table legs are 4x4's with two 2x4 cross pieces, which are then backed with 2x4's wedged behind and between the legs. Everything is glued and screwed together. Nails never worked for me, and my opinion is they don't hold very well.

Hopefully I can put the rest of the 2x4's on to get the basic structure finished.

I'll be backing the long axis 2x4's with 2x6's, and then another run of 2x4's to make movement in that direction very difficult.

Not sure If I should add eight diagonal braces. Opinions please. But remember, I only can work with wood. I don't have any way of working with metal.

The final process will be adding the top, one backing between the 2x4's, and on the ends using OSB to stiffen the whole thing.

OSB or Plywood on the outside will make a strong box maybe three sides and you would still have access.

 

[Jim in Idaho]

Anyone use duel motion frequency?
Anyone play with a fluid air bed?

It's not that type of linear setup that requires a controller. It consists of two rails with four block bearings, and uses a linear reciprocating arm. I will be stuck with two options, 10 or 20mm stroke lengths. cpm will be made with a motor speed controller.

Caley, I'd go with the 10mm as the best in an overall sense. I'm going to assume most of your gold is fairly small, and short strokes work better for that, as does higher speeds. That's another reason to have a heavy frame, and a light table...much easier to get the higher stroke speeds with it.

Jim

 

[desertgolddigger]

Jim

Yes, most of my gold from rocks ranges between 100 and 250 mesh, with occasional large no more than 50 mesh. As for smaller than 250 mesh, apparently there is such, but I've not been able to see it with a 10X loupe

 

[desertgolddigger]

I think it was Reed who said tables should be anchored down. After some more reading, I found that the base table must be absolutely level using shims as necessary. That means those could cause slippage if the table isn't bolted down. Looks like this whole setup will be on my patio (concrete slab). I have the hardware and drill bit to do the anchoring.

 

[desertgolddigger]

I'm almost finished with the support table. Still need to double up on the lower 2x4 longerons, and install the 2x6 corner reinforcement blocks behind the upper longerons.

Here's what I have so far. I put on my tap dance shoes and danced atop it. Yeah RIGGGHT!!!! Seems very solid. Hopefully it'll hold up whenever I get a functioning shaker table on it. If not, I have a very sturdy workbench now.

 

[N-Lionberger]

some friends of my claim partner built a shaker table, they had a lot of issues with not building a sturdy enough base.

 

[desertgolddigger]

some friends of my claim partner built a shaker table, they had a lot of issues with not building a sturdy enough base.

Well, The problem is I don't have the tools to work with metals, nor the money for anything but wood. As it is, I'm lucky half the wood I have used is stuff I kept, instead of throwing away like some people do.

I can probably go to Home Depot and get some metal structural reinforcement hardware normally used to build houses, but that's as far as I can take this build.

If it doesn't work, I still have a nice workbench.

 

[N-Lionberger]

They welded their base up with angle iron but it wasn’t heavy enough, had too much flex. Your bench is probably fine especially if you’re going to bolt it to the concrete floor.

 

[Jim in Idaho]

Well, The problem is I don't have the tools to work with metals, nor the money for anything but wood. As it is, I'm lucky half the wood I have used is stuff I kept, instead of throwing away like some people do.

I can probably go to Home Depot and get some metal structural reinforcement hardware normally used to build houses, but that's as far as I can take this build.

If it doesn't work, I still have a nice workbench.

I think wood is better, for a whole bunch of reasons:
1. easier for most people to work with
2. Better damping effects than metal
3. More mass, if done right
4. Easier to modify if that's needed
5. Less expensive for a given mass
6. If you get cold, you can always burn it
Jim

 

[Assembler]

I think wood is better, for a whole bunch of reasons:
1. easier for most people to work with
2. Better damping effects than metal
3. More mass, if done right
4. Easier to modify if that's needed
5. Less expensive for a given mass
6. If you get cold, you can always burn it
Jim

Not to go against the grain () here both wood and metals have there place.

 

[Jim in Idaho]

Not to go against the grain () here both wood and metals have there place.

I was only speaking in reference to building a table support. I work in all metals, wood, and plastics...even cardboard. Mostly in aluminum anymore, but I use what works the best for each application.
Jim

 

[desertgolddigger]

I was only speaking in reference to building a table support. I work in all metals, wood, and plastics...even cardboard. Mostly in aluminum anymore, but I use what works the best for each application.
Jim

Quite the talented Chap, you are.

Finished the wood construction part of the table. I didn't use 2x6's. I found they wouldn't have made a difference. I backed the four longerons and insured a hammer was needed to get them wedged up against the four table 4x4 legs. As usual, used glue and screws. I barely had the strength to tilt the table back up on their legs. This puppy is very heavy. Just one leg on my bathroom scale read 62 Pounds. I'm going to guestimate the table weight is around 150 pounds.

 

[desertgolddigger]

While now painting my support base with whatever paint I have on hand, I'm slowly turning ideas over in my pea brain as to how I'll work everything above that.

Jim in Idaho mentioned Wilfley Tables, so I got curious, and started looking at webpages and videos. I like this table, as not much is attached to the actual shaking table. The material flows off the edges along what looks like toothed guides attached to the table sides, and down into reservoirs, and finally down tubes into collection jugs. I'm guessing I could put these jugs into a big vat of water, so that most of the material stays in the jugs, while allowing the water to get recirculated. Anyway, I'm seriously thinking of this way, as it'll lighten my shaker table considerably, along with eliminating a triangular piece of wood on the shaker table, that's pretty much dead weight.

Again, thanks to Jim for the suggestions.

The super mini shaker table I'm going to build might just be able to work with the small linear motor I have if I do the above. This table will be so small (15x24) I'll need to scoop the material with a spoon, so I don't overload it. Hopefully it'll work well enough that I just need to run the material once, then the super concentrates from the table, to get mostly clean gold. I'm guessing that I'll have to save the end results for quite some time before running it again, as I don't get a lot of gold out of a 5 gallon bucket of raw milled ore.

Right now I'm just musing, and trying to figure things out.

I'm also making a sloped router jig, that'll allow me to cut grooves deeper on one end, and have them rise to zero depth on the other. I'll have to use carpet tape to hold the two jig rails in place, and a guide rail for the router. Hopefully it'll work, and can show the results, hopefully no the disasters I've had in the past with using a router.

EDITED/ADDED - I'm still painting the shaker table support base. Until 2019 I had a blue Honda CRV. A woman in a RAV4 decided she wasn't going to stop on a red light, and t-boned a very large SUV crossing the highway. The rav4 and large SUV T-boned me while I sat behind the white stop line waiting to make a left onto the highway. So much for my blue pony CRV which I was going to repaint. Yesterday I repurposed that blue paint to cover the top, and three sides. Hoping this paint will protect the wood from moisture. I'm using the paint I used to do my TUFF Shed to paint inside. If the blue paint isn't right, I'll use the shed paint over it.

Another EDIT - I decided that I built this shaker table base, and would need to shim to level it. WELL, I was totally shocked as it doesn't need any shimming. For once I actually built something square and perfectly level. That is an amazing accomplishment for me. So I should just have to move the table to where on my patio I want it, drill four holes, and put in the anchor bolts.

 

[Jim in Idaho]

I'm also making a sloped router jig, that'll allow me to cut grooves deeper on one end, and have them rise to zero depth on the other.



Another EDIT - I decided that I built this shaker table base, and would need to shim to level it. WELL, I was totally shocked as it doesn't need any shimming. For once I actually built something square and perfectly level. That is an amazing accomplishment for me. So I should just have to move the table to where on my patio I want it, drill four holes, and put in the anchor bolts.

nice work, Caley! Bear in mind that if you want all the grooves to have the same depth at the feed end, each groove will be at a different angle, because of the length differences. I just bought a rare tablesaw made by Delta, that allows the radial arm to be rotated to be in line with the table. It should make cutting the grooves really easy, once the right jigs are made for all the angles.
Jim