Chainsaw question: I'm missing something...?

Tnmountains said:
Is it a 3/8th pitch or .325. does it have a set screw for the oiler some of the new epa Stihl saws you cant adjust the oiler. It was always standard one tank of fuel ,one tank of oil Not with the new ones.

I will say when I was building bridges for the rail road we cut a ton of creosote ties and supports. We had a large wheel of chain to replace after a few sharpenings. Creosote made the blades and bar run very hot. Old ties should not be a problem though. Good practice always flip your bar over when replacing a chain for even bar wear. I love chain saws !
Click to expand...
Tnmountains: Can't answer on the pitch. No set screw for oiler. ! tank of fuel / 1 of oil. AND this saw is running HOT both blade and bar. But these are old ties though...? But thanks for advise of flipping bar over for wear.... That makes a LOT of sense.... Thanks...!
 

Amazon Forum Fav 👍

Diving for Pleasure and Treasure - Grab it through Amazon!
I love the way the guy tied the chain saw up and cut the wood
 

Limitool said:
I have a Stihl chainsaw w/18" bar. Fairly new and not used much. I've had a few hundred railroad ties stacked up for lining the driveway since last year. Well started to move them and had angles to cut at curves. After 2 cuts it was running hot and puked the chain. I changed out chain and made 3 cuts and again same thing. I took bar & chain off and cleaned up everything to make sure bar oil was in the oiler. I fired it up and yep.... oil pouring on out. Put a 3rd new chain on and cut 9 ties and same thing happened AGAIN...!

So is something wrong with the chainsaw or maybe it doesn't like cutting the railroad ties possibly. Why I wouldn't know but is it possible maybe? I am NOT hitting any metal nor seen any sparks at all. I stay a long ways from the metal end plates.

Any ideas anybody.... :dontknow:
Click to expand...
Is it possible the chain is on backwards I have done this myself with the same results.
 

There is bar oil for summer and oil for winter. I always shoot a shot of wd -40 in my one saw with auto oiler to thin it down so it throws out a ton of oil, Lol. Be careful out there!
 

Check your chains rear sprockets rim it rides on. They wear for a reason and could be considered sacrificial in a good way of sorts. Your sprocket should indicate it wants replaced from the sounds of it. I mean from what you described of your chain wandering. You checked how the chain rode in/on it when you hanged chains repeatedly right? It's just as easy to measure against a new ones attributes/dimensions.
(Not your actual rim shown in sample picture. A side view would show where chain rides.)
1730392975912.png


Bump up your oil in your oil mix. That should keep your fuel from boiling. And as mentioned run that dog. Don't lug the r.p.m.s. Worst case if you add too much oil you'll foul a plug while fogging mosquitos. (Tilt saw and smoke out some chiggers too while you're at it.)

Now , a real man would just use a hand saw.
(I'd have returned the ties design arrangement back where they were after smoking my first chain.).
 

unclemac said:
Now , a real man would just use a hand saw.

View attachment 2176466
I put my great grandpa's cross-cut up on my wall by the wood stove.... my dad came over and saw it... he said..."I spent a lot of time on the other end of that saw..."
Click to expand...
I didn't get in any fistfight over Dads buck saw when we settled his estate.
Why my arms were not bigger than my legs one woodcutting Autumn escapes me.
Perhaps it was it only being a couple days of sawing. Well a couple hours of sawing anyways.
Kept me away from his chainsaws though I guess.
Now I have my own saws leaking oil . Why do I always end up with non-house broken ones....
.

.
 

with chains being so cheap these days, I don't hardly grind them anymore.
 

Limitool said:
I have a Stihl chainsaw w/18" bar. Fairly new and not used much. I've had a few hundred railroad ties stacked up for lining the driveway since last year. Well started to move them and had angles to cut at curves. After 2 cuts it was running hot and puked the chain. I changed out chain and made 3 cuts and again same thing. I took bar & chain off and cleaned up everything to make sure bar oil was in the oiler. I fired it up and yep.... oil pouring on out. Put a 3rd new chain on and cut 9 ties and same thing happened AGAIN...!

So is something wrong with the chainsaw or maybe it doesn't like cutting the railroad ties possibly. Why I wouldn't know but is it possible maybe? I am NOT hitting any metal nor seen any sparks at all. I stay a long ways from the metal end plates.

Any ideas anybody.... :dontknow:
Click to expand...
The RR tie , old dirty , bone dry , it's eating your chain. Any logger or forester worth his salt would never sink his good saw in a RR tie for that reason. They are tough on the chain bone dry and dirty .
 

3cylbill said:
Your also overheating the piston , chainsaws are made to run flat out....
Click to expand...
Properly tuned chainsaws are made to run flat out under a load.

Railroad ties are notorious for dulling chains. You have to touch the chain up frequently. If you let it get to the point it’s getting hot and not cutting, you will ruin the temper on the teeth which will accelerate the dulling.

Just keep a file handy and be super careful about avoiding the ground.
 

ncsuwolf said:
I’ll only sharpen a few times…..once they cut crooked and I can’t fix…..new chain.
Click to expand...
I sharpen my chains many many times.
When I was young (12 years old) Dad said touch it up EVERY tank of fuel.

I use skip tooth chains. 1/2 the teeth to sharpen.

When properly sharpened, they will cut quickly and straight even to the point that the teeth are so narrow that they break off.

Most folks do not understand how to maintain the raker height as the teeth are lowered.

Best thing to do is be super careful and carry 3 newly sharpened chains. sharpen them in the garage later.
 

Tesorodeoro said:
Properly tuned chainsaws are made to run flat out under a load.

Railroad ties are notorious for dulling chains. You have to touch the chain up frequently. If you let it get to the point it’s getting hot and not cutting, you will ruin the temper on the teeth which will accelerate the dulling.

Just keep a file handy and be super careful about avoiding the ground.
Click to expand...
Agreed totally. Keep touching up the chain and re tension. You should be fine.
 

You must log in or register to reply here.

google lens, Try it on this cave wall.

⬅️ Previous Thread

Boo!

Next Thread ➡️

Top Member Reactions

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 3 (members: 0, guests: 3)
Metal Detecting Stuff

Latest Discussions

Back
Top