Chainsaw question: I'm missing something...?

Limitool, I hope your landscaping went well. :icon_thumleft: Good morning.
Howdy.... Kind of came to a stop for awhile. Bummed out over chainsaw and had a couple of toy boxes orders to fill.

I learned a lot concerning this project. I believe nothing is wrong with my chainsaw and that railroad ties are just brutal upon them. Still got 30-40 more ties to move around. They aren't going anywhere....!!!!!
 

Howdy.... Kind of came to a stop for awhile. Bummed out over chainsaw and had a couple of toy boxes orders to fill.

I learned a lot concerning this project. I believe nothing is wrong with my chainsaw and that railroad ties are just brutal upon them. Still got 30-40 more ties to move around. They aren't going anywhere....!!!!!
Throwing small chips or dust heats up the chain which heats up the creosote, which heats up the chain..then the temper is lost.. You want large flakes.

Although I hate sharpening long bars, you would probably find a larger saw with a skip tooth chain would cut better.

I’d also recommend blipping the throttle a few times after each cut. This will clear any wood from the bar and lubricate and cool the chain.
 

Watch a few videos about chain filing.

Get yourself a new round file and a raker gauge (usually comes with a flat file). The raker gauge will be specific to your saw and chain. If any of the teeth look chipped or dull..stop and resharpen. You will notice that the teeth are slanted, so each sharpening lowers the tooth. If you are having to sharpen frequently, the rakers will not have time to wear down. Eventually the cutting action is more so by the raker and not the tooth. That’s when things start to heat up (melting creosote) You don’t want to file the rakers down too far or the cut will be too aggressive. That’s what the gauge is for.
 

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