Barrels in fast water

Oak, yea man I've took apart his videos, all of them, but doesn't tell me how it handles fast water.

Craig, actually building is the easy part.

G1, I plastic welded at my last job, it's simple and I'm a pro at it. Just don't have access to a welder and by the time I would buy what I need, I could of bought premade 'toons.
 

Oak, yea man I've took apart his videos, all of them, but doesn't tell me how it handles fast water. Craig, actually building is the easy part. G1, I plastic welded at my last job, it's simple and I'm a pro at it. Just don't have access to a welder and by the time I would buy what I need, I could of bought premade 'toons.
What's
 

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Cool sluice video and not to make fun of the guy.
I couldn't help but notice the biggest 'Farmer John" waders I have ever seen.

Since my clothes keep mysteriously shrinking on me, I'm glad that I too will still be stylish years from now.

I would go with the Barrels for now, its a prototype after all.
once you have achieved a stable floating platform, perhaps the ability of shifting the weight fore and aft for dealing with fast water in order to keep the "Bow" up.
The only other real problem is zig zagging, plow and roll with the "catamaran" setup.

You need a swift water "Beta Site" for research and development that's for sure, a mock up with sand bags before the actual maiden voyage.
 

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Cool sluice video and not to make fun of the guy.
I couldn't help but notice the biggest 'Farmer John" waders I have ever seen.

Since my clothes keep mysteriously shrinking on me, I'm glad that I too will still be stylish years from now.

That's Reed, He's a awesome guy, willing to help anyone out. Prolly forgot more about mining then I'll ever know.

G1, not sure my actually, I know the one we used at work was about $3000, but then again it ran on 480v, needed to be hooked to shop air and kicked butt when it was working! Not sure how much the plastic weld cost either. Would be cheaper to build out of alum. LOL I'm kidding of course. Don't really know what I'm going to do yet.
 

That's Reed, He's a awesome guy, willing to help anyone out. Prolly forgot more about mining then I'll ever know. G1, not sure my actually, I know the one we used at work was about $3000, but then again it ran on 480v, needed to be hooked to shop air and kicked butt when it was working! Not sure how much the plastic weld cost either. Would be cheaper to build out of alum.
 

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Omni
Send Reed a PM and I am sure he will be glad to let you know how is six handles in fast water, if we don't get some rain and snow quick, fast water may be a thing of the past this summer in the west.
 

G, About 99% of our water ways have a season from June 31 to Sept 31. A few water ways are open year round but it's kind of a joke, when you have several feet of snow, 6"+ of ice and high temps around freezing. We do have to have permits from Idaho and I guess the EPA but it's kind of a mess right now as I heard the deadline for epa was Feb1 but you cant even get the Idaho permit application till March and you have to have Idaho permit before applying for EPA. I know the out of state permit is like $20 more bucks and I know of only one public spot for dredging, SF Payette. That's were I plan on dredging this year and my goal is 20-30oz...tall order as I imangine its pretty well dredged out. That's why I'm wanting to be able to float down river. I really don't think most people don't have the balls (lack of brains) I do to get to the hard to access spots were there may be great gold. I did talk to someone who dredged there a few years ago and they went broke before ever hitting gold. Lots of overburden and very fast water. They were having to trench from the outside in but ran out of funds.

I'm going to call that place tomorrow about the 'toons. I see that Dahlke is using them on their bigger dredges.

link to PDF catalog http://www.dahlkedredge.com/documents/Dahlke Dredge full catalog.pdf
look at the page 5. Looks good under a dredge. I might just bite the bullet and get them and try to figure out were I can cut some corners...might have to be engine/pump.
Oak, yea man I should PM Reed, he would know but as I look at his layout, he has 2 'toons flipped. That might help it out some but I really don't want to flip mine.
 

Didn't read all the posts in the thread, but you most
definitely want pontoons under that dredge.

Barrels might work for going downriver, but trying to drag
that dredge back upriver will be about like dragging a cat
across the carpet by his tail.....
sSig_aaarggh.gif~original
 

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G, About 99% of our water ways have a season from June 31 to Sept 31. A few water ways are open year round but it's kind of a joke, when you have several feet of snow, 6"+ of ice and high temps around freezing. We do have to have permits from Idaho and I guess the EPA but it's kind of a mess right now as I heard the deadline for epa was Feb1 but you cant even get the Idaho permit application till March and you have to have Idaho permit before applying for EPA. I know the out of state permit is like $20 more bucks and I know of only one public spot for dredging, SF Payette. That's were I plan on dredging this year and my goal is 20-30oz...tall order as I imangine its pretty well dredged out. That's why I'm wanting to be able to float down river. I really don't think most people don't have the balls (lack of brains) I do to get to the hard to access spots were there may be great gold. I did talk to someone who dredged there a few years ago and they went broke before ever hitting gold. Lots of overburden and very fast water. They were having to trench from the outside in but ran out of funds. I'm going to call that place tomorrow about the 'toons. I see that Dahlke is using them on their bigger dredges. link to PDF catalog http://www.dahlkedredge.com/documents/Dahlke%20Dredge%20full%20catalog.pdf look at the page 5. Looks good under a dredge. I might just bite the bullet and get them and try to figure out were I can cut some corners...might have to be engine/pump. Oak, yea man I should PM Reed, he would know but as I look at his layout, he has 2 'toons flipped. That might help it out some but I really don't want to flip mine.
Omni, we ought to meet up this weekend. I'd like to give you some info on what you are up against on that river. Some tricks to set the dredge in the current, moving it down stream, places to launch from, some spots to avoid, etc.
 

i had thought about foam filling my pontoons. i even brought them to a guy to fill them. BUT he said the foam will add 1 pound for every cubic foot of foam. that would have ment adding 12 pounds of weight to my dredge that i was tring to reduce weight.i decided NOT to add foam to my pontoons.
 

G, About 99% of our water ways have a season from June 31 to Sept 31. A few water ways are open year round but it's kind of a joke, when you have several feet of snow, 6"+ of ice and high temps around freezing. We do have to have permits from Idaho and I guess the EPA but it's kind of a mess right now as I heard the deadline for epa was Feb1 but you cant even get the Idaho permit application till March and you have to have Idaho permit before applying for EPA. I know the out of state permit is like $20 more bucks and I know of only one public spot for dredging, SF Payette. That's were I plan on dredging this year and my goal is 20-30oz...tall order as I imangine its pretty well dredged out. That's why I'm wanting to be able to float down river. I really don't think most people don't have the balls (lack of brains) I do to get to the hard to access spots were there may be great gold. I did talk to someone who dredged there a few years ago and they went broke before ever hitting gold. Lots of overburden and very fast water. They were having to trench from the outside in but ran out of funds.

I'm going to call that place tomorrow about the 'toons. I see that Dahlke is using them on their bigger dredges.

link to PDF catalog http://www.dahlkedredge.com/documents/Dahlke Dredge full catalog.pdf
look at the page 5. Looks good under a dredge. I might just bite the bullet and get them and try to figure out were I can cut some corners...might have to be engine/pump.
Oak, yea man I should PM Reed, he would know but as I look at his layout, he has 2 'toons flipped. That might help it out some but I really don't want to flip mine.

Nice looking dredge and love the infinity jet :icon_thumleft:
 

Nice looking dredge and love the infinity jet :icon_thumleft:

Accually GG I believe that's a tri-jet. If you look at some of the jets closely, you'll see tubes from the pressure chamber to the jet.

Jack, we can play it by ear for now, my wife has been having labor pains...she's not due till the 12th....

Russ, weight is of a concern to me but protection of the investment has more weight so to say :)

Dizzy, lmfao I had never considered trying to drag it up river, my plan was always to float it down river, when I was done float it down river more to a spot that I could pick it up and then hitch hike but up river and pick up my car, I might also take my bike with me down and ride that back up but who wants to ride a bike up hill?
 

Piece a cake,no problems. Stay away from flat ended metal and stick to rounded edged 15+ gallon. Used on 4"-5"-6" and never a problem.Dry cleaners,motels and chemical house suppliers have them cheap,sportsmen like $35 a piece NO.John John
 

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I suggest before you keep buying things you first test yout results with the infinity jet. you will need to use a sluice accordingly to the gpm of the total output. Meaning if your inlet gpm is 300 and your suction is 600 gpm; double the efficiency of a normal log jet. It will require a smaller sluice box since a normal 6" sluice is designed for 1200gpm. That means less floatation, pump GPM and smaller sluice. A flare i believe would need to be modified or built. I dont know what results you would get but tim i believe Tripple the efficiency of a reg. Log jet. He's inlet was 100gpm; while his draw was 300gpm on his 4" dredge. I believe he have's everything almost of a 2" by what he was trying to explain to me. But im no expert on the subjet maybe some else tunes in to help.
 

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Piece a cake,no problems. Stay away from flat ended metal and stick to rounded edged 15+ gallon. Used on 4"-5"-6" and never a problem.Dry cleaners,motels and chemical house suppliers have them cheap,sportsmen like $35 a piece NO.John John

Thank god John finally showed up! That's what I needed to know, I can now stop worrying about floatation. Thanks!
 

I suggest before you keep buying things you first test yout results with the infinity jet. you will need to use a sluice accordingly to the gpm of the total output. Meaning if your inlet gpm is 300 and your suction is 600 gpm; double the efficiency of a normal log jet. It will require a smaller sluice box since a normal 6" sluice is designed for 1200gpm. That means less floatation, pump GPM and smaller sluice. A flare i believe would need to be modified or built. I dont know what results you would get but tim i believe Tripple the efficiency of a reg. Log jet. He's inlet was 100gpm; while his draw was 300gpm on his 4" dredge. I believe he have's everything almost of a 2" by what he was trying to explain to me. But im no expert on the subjet maybe some else tunes in to help.

I havn't bought anything yet. I don't follow what your saying. As I understand things, If I use a infinity jet it has several benefits. It creates more suction with less effort (pump/motor) meaning I can run the engine slower saving fuel while moving the same or more material then a standard jet. The dynamics of the required sluice for a 6" dredge will not decrease but instead could increase but will more then likely stay the same. The reason for larger dredges is to move more material and for that you need a larger sluice to handle the larger volume of material. A added benefit of going this route is I will have a lot more power in reserve to dredge deeper. If I can move X amount of material at 10' down @ 25% throttle and I need to go deeper due to the needed lift required I can crank the engine up to 50% to overcome gravity and still move the same X material. That's how I understand it. I try to not over think/complicate things with stupid numbers (lol) rather I use common sense based on what I have read/learned and don't worry about the math.

While floatation requirments will change based on many factors I would rather have too much then too little. That's why building in sluice adjustments are important.
 

A guy I know built a couple of 6 inch dredges using barrels, he was working in smaller faster running rivers. what he did to make it easier to dredge in fast water was to put a piece of flat metal at a angle from the top of the barrel to the bottom. the same width as the barrel, nothing fancy just some 1 inch square tube , a couple of cross pieces and 14 gage sheet metal. that is a easy , cheap build. it worked for him. on my dredge I just run the barrels, nothing more. it does plow a little buy not too bad. I guess it is what you want to do and how much you want to spend.

bill/cr
 

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