What year does this foundation range from.

[Critik]

Also guys I went detecting here and it’s if littered with so much trash. I am using a Nox 800 and I couldn’t even move a foot without getting. 15 or 16 hit I usually dig those but it was over whelming amount of digging

 

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[HighVDI]

I checked all the bricks none of them have any names on them some even have the 3 holes in them. So what other way would I have to convince anyone they are old

Looks like there was an addition added on the side and some newer brick. That would explain the 3 holed (newer style) brick. The real test is to see what the actual footing is made of. If it's sitting on clay it could be a little earlier.

 

[Back-of-the-boat]

I checked all the bricks none of them have any names on them some even have the 3 holes in them. So what other way would I have to convince anyone they are old

If they have an older look and are weathered it is what people buy used brick for, not necessarily the age of the brick, if it has some cement on it and is weathered that is what people buy and all the targets around there are nails because the place burned down, maybe go through the area with a rake with magnets attached to it to pull out most of the iron, then you could find better targets. Good luck.

 

[crashbandicoot]

If they have an older look and are weathered it is what people buy used brick for, not necessarily the age of the brick, if it has some cement on it and is weathered that is what people buy and all the targets around there are nails because the place burned down, maybe go through the area with a rake with magnets attached to it to pull out most of the iron, then you could find better targets. Good luck.

BOTB got it again,it,s the look not the actual age. You might try a sifter or screen instead of metal detecting if you can do this,dig out a shovel at a time and see if you find anything significant.

 

[Critik]

Alright I will in the future gather help for this. Will be a lot of work

 

[crashbandicoot]

If it was easy,anybody could do it! "Keep on keeping on" Mr.Natural!

 

[crashbandicoot]

If you know who Mr.Natural is without having to look it up,that dates you as old!

 

[Critik]

If you know who Mr.Natural is without having to look it up,that dates you as old!

Heard the phrase many uh times I use it but I am younger

 

[alloy_II]

There is a market for old used brick, I would try and get permission to finish taking it down to the ground and salvage all that brick, It all looks in real good condition. Between $300.00 to $700.00 for a pallet of bricks, a pallet has 500 to 510 bricks.

I used to get a premium price for the clinker bricks. It's been years since I have dropped a chimney.

But the house across the road from our property is tempting.

Clinker bricks.

 

[alloy_II]

I was not sure where to post this but if this is the correct place I am trying to figure out what year this foundation of a old house come from.

Your chimney has a flue liner, so no clinker bricks.

Flue liners keep toxic and heated gasses and creosote inside the flue, rather than outside the chimney or inside the home. While clay tile flue liners started showing up in the 1860's in larger homes, liners weren't required by code until 1927 and many jurisdictions did not adopt or enforce the code until as late the 1940's.

 

[eman1000]

Your going to want the 6" coil on the Nox at that site. Otherwise it will feel impossible with that many targets. I would suggest you lower your sensitivity and raise recovery speed to where you can detect at just a few inches at most 3-4" and hunt the ground like that and dig as much as you can tolerate - Then go back over the site with your sens higher and look for deeper targets. Option B would be to notch out or up to only the keepers like 20 and higher and the Nox. I'm no Nox expert but this seems like a logical approach for a site like that assuming you plan to hunt it multiple times. You'll also want your Iron Masking setting dialed in F2/F3. I would also start 50' away from the foundation and work my way inwards so hopefully less trashy further away from the property but still maybe find some relics and coins.

On the Gaia App there is a "Historic Topo 1930 map you can control the contrast of the map about 40% if usually good laid over the current satellite image and see the black/gray image of houses and approx where they used to sit. You can hold on the map to draw measurements if that helps. I included a couple sample pics if that helps.

 

[Critik]

Your going to want the 6" coil on the Nox at that site. Otherwise it will feel impossible with that many targets. I would suggest you lower your sensitivity and raise recovery speed to where you can detect at just a few inches at most 3-4" and hunt the ground like that and dig as much as you can tolerate - Then go back over the site with your sens higher and look for deeper targets. Option B would be to notch out or up to only the keepers like 20 and higher and the Nox. I'm no Nox expert but this seems like a logical approach for a site like that assuming you plan to hunt it multiple times. You'll also want your Iron Masking setting dialed in F2/F3. I would also start 50' away from the foundation and work my way inwards so hopefully less trashy further away from the property but still maybe find some relics and coins.

On the Gaia App there is a "Historic Topo 1930 map you can control the contrast of the map about 40% if usually good laid over the current satellite image and see the black/gray image of houses and approx where they used to sit. You can hold on the map to draw measurements if that helps. I included a couple sample pics if that helps. View attachment 2019172

Thanks for the info you helped me with the Gaia app with this location earlier. I am still learning the Nox very good machine lots of good settings to tweak. Takes a lot of learning to get it perfect. You know what would be a dream if there was a app like Gaia but also you could click the dark house spots and find any info on the house. For example pictures deeds newspaper articles. I am about to post a very interesting one that I need dating. Maybe the best one yet I found

 

[ANTIQUARIAN]

The older bricks in the structure may very well have been repurposed from somewhere else, but bricks with 3-holes in them most certainly date portions of the building to the 1950s. Great information by eman1000, I've never heard of the Gaia App before, I've always used Google Earth with good success.

If the main house area is too trashy, I'd suggest looking at satellite overviews of the area. Possibly detect the road coming into the site and any trails leading to structures on the periphery. The fact that you're located in NC, may mean there's been earlier habitation on the site. Also, if you wanted to post some pics from the bricks, we may be able to help with the age. Hold them in your hand so we can get an idea of the size and shape.

In the 18th century 2½” was an average brick thickness and this dimension slowly increased in the 19th century to reach 3” – 3½”. To some extent this was the result of a government-imposed brick tax based on the number of bricks a manufacturer produced. After 1850 this tax was rescinded and there was no motive for making a brick any larger than could be conveniently handled by a bricklayer. Bricks slowly became thinner once more showing a slow decline to 2 5/8th inch. After 1850 manufacturers began to impress their initials, names or companies into the unfired brick. A ‘brick-mark’ of this type should, after a little research, enable you to identify the manufacturer and date of the brick with some accuracy. Large perforations through the brick fabric make firing quicker and cheaper. This is a mid-20th century development as is the use of modern Portland cement in mortar.

Dave

 

[crashbandicoot]

I used to get a premium price for the clinker bricks. It's been years since I have dropped a chimney.

But the house across the road from our property is tempting.

View attachment 2019140

Clinker bricks.

View attachment 2019131

I know it,s inevitable,but I hate to see these old houses go down.man if they could talk!

 

[newnan man]

3 holed or "cored" brick are not old per se. They are fairly modern as they were made by machines that extruded long brick sized tubes then wire cut them to brick size. The brick are fired in a large kiln. The holes saved on material, made the brick lighter, and actually stronger. The mortar will get into the holes as the masons spreads the mud and the entire wall bonds together better. That foundation is not real old, maybe from the 30- 40's if I had to guess.