parsonwalker
Bronze Member
First, thanks to everybody for the great suggestions on how to stabilize the dirt for a "different" display presentation. I had 3 "Test dirt clods". Here are my findings:
1. Spray Laquer dried the hardest and should work well.
2. Clear Rustoleum spray did fine, too.
3. I chose the "dipping in liquid Minwax polyurethane" only because by submerging the clod and leaving it there maybe 10 seconds the dirt could soak up more and the poly could absorb deeper.
OBSERVATIONS:
1. Whatever you choose, go with a SATIN finish. Even the satin made the button a bit too shiny for my taste, but it couldn't be helped.
2. No matter what you choose, only the FIRST application is going to penetrate into the dirt, because the first application will effectively SEAL the clod. Any subsequent applications simply sit on TOP of the initial application. Therefore, if you choose a spray, spray HEAVY. If you choose a dip, leave it in there more than a quick dip, but not long enough to loosen the dirt and cause the relic to fall out. Spray the dirt heavy, but try to be LIGHT on the relic.
3. My test clods stood up to moderate handling, and didn't break apart easily. But if you drop it, it's GOING to shatter because only the exterior dirt is stabilized.
Here it is, unsealed, with the button cleaned using the "dry toothpick method." I wanted to leave as much green patina as I could:
And here is the finished product, dipped only ONCE for about 10 seconds in satin, clear polyurethane, and allowed to dry:
1. Spray Laquer dried the hardest and should work well.
2. Clear Rustoleum spray did fine, too.
3. I chose the "dipping in liquid Minwax polyurethane" only because by submerging the clod and leaving it there maybe 10 seconds the dirt could soak up more and the poly could absorb deeper.
OBSERVATIONS:
1. Whatever you choose, go with a SATIN finish. Even the satin made the button a bit too shiny for my taste, but it couldn't be helped.
2. No matter what you choose, only the FIRST application is going to penetrate into the dirt, because the first application will effectively SEAL the clod. Any subsequent applications simply sit on TOP of the initial application. Therefore, if you choose a spray, spray HEAVY. If you choose a dip, leave it in there more than a quick dip, but not long enough to loosen the dirt and cause the relic to fall out. Spray the dirt heavy, but try to be LIGHT on the relic.
3. My test clods stood up to moderate handling, and didn't break apart easily. But if you drop it, it's GOING to shatter because only the exterior dirt is stabilized.
Here it is, unsealed, with the button cleaned using the "dry toothpick method." I wanted to leave as much green patina as I could:
And here is the finished product, dipped only ONCE for about 10 seconds in satin, clear polyurethane, and allowed to dry:
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How in the world did your instincts not let you break off the rest of that clay? Looks awsome, great job!
