Now, the suit-warmer is all assembled. Just a couple more items to take care of.
I could have told you about this first, but, I forgot about it myself until the canister was completed. And, I just now forgot it again. (lol)
Drill a hole near the end of the canister that will be closest to the exhaust port. Make it large enough to weld a steel tube in. It should be large enough for a 3/8th inch water line to fit snugly. (This will be for the input from the water pump.)
Then, drill a hole in the side of the canister at the discharge end, and weld a brass fitting that a small water “T”valve can screw on to. This “T” valve will slow down the water going to the wet-suit. Just a trickle of water is all that is needed. If you open the valve too much, the water will pass through the canister too fast to warm up.
When I first made the suit-warmer, my water pump had a fitting on it made for a “garden hose”. Or as they preferred calling it, a crevasse blaster. (lol)
It is possible to put a T fitting on this outlet. One side for the garden hose, and the other for the 3/8ths water line. Note: If your pump doesn’t have this outlet, you can drill and tap (thread) the pump for a 3/8ths fitting.
Now, you’re ready to put the suit-warmer on the engine.
Screw the exhaust nipple into the engine port, (where the muffler was.) Use caution here. Look at the threads on the muffler that was on the engine, and screw the suit-warmer in the same amount. If it is screwed in too far, it will interfere with the normal flow of exhaust and could possibly damage the engine. Also, if the muffler has a flanged “lock-nut”, use it with the suit-warmer to keep it from vibrating out of the port. If it doesn’t have a lock-nut, it would be a good idea to get one. The ones used with electrical conduit work well here.
After I installed mine, after I ran it for a day, I didn’t like the way the engine vibrated. When the suit-warmer is full of water, it is heavier than the muffler is. I became so concerned about it that I took some measurements, then took the suit-warmer back off, and took it home that night.
First thing the following morning, I found a heavy piece of strap-iron, about an inch wide and 1/8th of an inch thick. Going by my measurements, I bent the ends at an angle, then drilled holes in each end. Then I welded a ¼ inch bolt on the bottom of the outer end of the canister.
When I got back to the dredge, I put the suit-warmer back on as before, then I took the strap-iron brace and bolted it on the suit-warmer, then removed one of the mounting bolts on the base of the engine, and running it through the other end of the brace, bolted the engine back down firmly.
It must have worked pretty well, as I never had any problems with it in the following 3 years.
And, I hope you can understand this mish-mash of instructions. (lol)
Oh, almost forgot, you’ll need some ¼ inch hose to go from the suit-warmer to your wet-suit. I would recommend getting a length long enough to reach from the suit-warmer to just beyond the end of the suction nozzle, then add about 3 to 5 feet. You’ll need enough to stick about 2 feet of it down the back of the neck of your wet-suit.
Incidentally, since the question was asked earlier, yes, I owned a dry suit. Believe me, this was much warmer and way more comfortable. (lol)
Eagle