Need Some Coin Help

The overall appearance of the coin suggests that it is genuine but also the fact that the details (images) and lettering are well struck, have sharp edges and meet the fields sharply which definitely indicate that it is genuine! A fake and especially one made from a mold, would have somewhat mushy details and the edges of the details and lettering would be more rounded and flow into the fields gradually (as in a curve) and not sharply. In hopes of explaining how the details and lettering meeting the fields sharply: Consider that they end in the fields abruptly with little if any curvature where they meet the fields (flat surface of the coin) very much like the following n or m .


Frank
 

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MPH,
No reasonable person would 'bet the farm' that an un-slabbed coin in a photo is authentic.
It is much easier to see and state when a coin is fake.
To get a more reliable opinion as to a coin's authenticity, a couple of coin stores with the same coin would be my first stop.
I would use a professional grading company to authenticate coins that appear to be authentic and have numismatic value believed to be worth over $75--but that is just my opinion--to avoid backlash.
Don.......

Don.....
 

The bottom coin in post #6 is a Prussian coin with a fineness of 0.900 silver, weight of 37.12 grams and a melt value today of $15.25.
Better news is that only about 627,000 were minted and in VF 20 condition it's worth about $125. You may wish to get this coin slabbed.
Don.....
 

The 1st coin in Post #7 is an Italian State of Parma 1832 "Maria Luigia D'Austria" 5 Lire Coin which is likely worth $300 or more in it's condition. It is 25 grams of .900 Silver and has a diameter of 37.0 or 37.5mm. This is another coin that probably should be certified and graded just like the previous one Mackaydon recommended.


Frank
 

Where would you advise me to send them to have them certified?
 

Among many, IMO, there are two major coin grading (and authenticating) companies in the US.
The Professional Coin Grading Company (PCGS)
The Numismatic Guaranty Corporation (NGC)
I don't know if you can go direct to them, but you could inquire (or probably wait a short time and others will advise you here).
I go through my LCD; and insist on one or the other for grading/authentication.
Don.....
 

PLEASE do not send all of them in. There are only certain ones I would say could make the cut, such as: the first coin in the fourth post from the beginning, MAYBE the last coin in post five, but that is up to you, the second-to-last coin in post six, the last coin in post six, the first coin in post seven, and that is all. Again, it is your decision. Also, this is just my opinion. There will probably many people who will add and subtract from my list. You are the one who will choose who to listen to.
 

Slabbing isn't cheap. First, ask your LCD the cost to slab (and inquire about 'quantity discounts'). Next, check the value on Ebay of similar coins in similar condition that have actually sold ("Completed Listings"), not those that are simply listed for sale. Then weigh the benefits against the cost.
Don......
 

Thanks for the suggestions. He doesn't collect coins at all, so he just wants the $. I will explore ebay
& other options for him. It may help with the sale of some of the coins to have them graded. Some, like the
old Mexican Pesos may just be the silver content. I am going to offer to buy the British Honduras coin from him
since I plan to retire in Belize.
 

MPH200 said:
My Father-in-law bought a box of coins at a garage sale. There are quite a few old coins & they are all foreign. Any information you can add will help. Thank you. I will post both sides of each coin, a few at a time.
Click to expand...

Looks to me like someone polished the hell out of those silver coins. If I am right, unless you have a key date in there, you're stuck at silver value.
 

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