Need a Machanics Advice!

Thank you all for your helpful advise, I will check into them all. I just wish working on these newer vehicles were as easy as working on my 62 Chevy step-side. At least you could almost crawl inside the engine bay and work on a part.
 

The only reason I suggested the distributor, is my Jeep just quit running while driving home from work one day. No stutter, no warning, just died. It was a broken distributor shaft. I looked to see if this model has a distributor before posting the suggestion. It doesn't look like the "old" distributors, but apparently has one with rotor. Shade tree mechanic here. A lot of good suggestions. Good luck.

Yep, I was wrong...I just looked it up quickly and I do see a distributor and cap for a 2000 5.3L. I worked on a fleet of these type trucks for a few years and couldn't remember that(mostly the V6 motor). I still would have bet that it didn't have one, or a cam sensor in it's place......I guess I should look things up before guessing at things. haha I also thought he said it had the individual coil packs, but when I looked back in the thread I see that he didn't know, I got that mixed up too...:occasion14:
 

Oh, Oh, Oh! Those also have a neutral position safety switch than will prevent them from starting. Try putting in neutral and try starting it. I now have an ODBII sensor testor and generally take my cars to a trusted mechanic anymore. You can waste a lot of time doing it yourself these days. I DID replace the heater door actuator on my 2011 Impala. Had to be a snake to get under the dash, but I did it!
 

Thank you all for your helpful advise, I will check into them all. I just wish working on these newer vehicles were as easy as working on my 62 Chevy step-side. At least you could almost crawl inside the engine bay and work on a part.

Your 2000 and 62 have the exact same things that make the engine run...fuel/air ratio,ignition source,compression...HOW those factors are managed have changed. This is where a really good auto tech is worth their keep,because the person has the equipment to TEST AND VERIFY which of those systems is working correctly...or not.
 

They started losing me when they started putting motors in sideways. Some things just ain't right.
 

You'll become a decent mechanic owning older chevys like that. They are pretty much done at that point in their life and wont ever be dependable again and riddled with problems.
Best thing you can do if you want to drive old cars is to go with Toyota or Subaru and keep the old 2000 Chevy for a project truck. Unfortunately the **** have us beat on most things mechanical, engines, motorcycles, theres nothing that will compete and the jap stuff is usually cheaper now and lasts forever almost.
I stopped driving American junk when I learned that and now it's nothing to get 300k+ out of a jap car with little problems over the years, simple to work on and cheap.
You'll replace suspension components on a jap car long before you ever wear our major engine parts.
It's another option and one that can save ya big $$ over the years!
 

I have no complaints with my 2013 patriot whatsoever.Bought it with 27k miles,has 81k on it now.I haven't done anything to it except regular maintenance.
 

When i said in my earlier post that you may have a bad crank sensor I meant the new one you bought may be bad. I work for a parts place and have seen new sensors come back because they were bad. If you are not getting spark I don't think it would be the coils. I have never seen all 8 go bad at once.
 

You'll become a decent mechanic owning older chevys like that. They are pretty much done at that point in their life and wont ever be dependable again and riddled with problems.
Best thing you can do if you want to drive old cars is to go with Toyota or Subaru and keep the old 2000 Chevy for a project truck. Unfortunately the **** have us beat on most things mechanical, engines, motorcycles, theres nothing that will compete and the jap stuff is usually cheaper now and lasts forever almost.
I stopped driving American junk when I learned that and now it's nothing to get 300k+ out of a jap car with little problems over the years, simple to work on and cheap.
You'll replace suspension components on a jap car long before you ever wear our major engine parts.
It's another option and one that can save ya big $$ over the years!

At least with an old small block Chevy parts are cheap and everywhere including the grocery store or a fence row.
 

This truck has been very dependable over the years with very few mechanical problems, and it has 150000 miles on it. I will get back to you all and let you know what the diagnose is.
 

was it throwing any other codes ? did you compare sensors side by side ?
 

They started losing me when they started putting motors in sideways. Some things just ain't right.

thats why they refer to them as adverse. just wait till they start installing them contusionally ?
 

thats why they refer to them as adverse. just wait till they start installing them contusionally ?

:laughing7: Humor makes all car repairs go better...:notworthy:
 

I'm not much of a mechanic. Therefore you'll need to acquire a 1966 pickup....
Seriously though , to give you something to do after kicking the right front tire and the problem still existing here's an idea...

https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/how-to-test-the-icm-1

I love pickups of that generation. I'd love to own a 66 Chevy with a 283. My first pickup was a 65 Ford in grad school. Despite little power from the 6 cyl, and poor fuel economy to boot, I have fond memories of it. I've had pickups for all but one year of the last 42 years. I had a 2001 Chevy with the 5.3 like the OP's GMC. Only problem I ever had was a sticky throttle body that required frequent cleaning. Capable & comfortable truck for long trips and for towing a boat.
 

Might try the mass airflow sensor also.a bad one kept my previous car from starting.if it's bad,unplug it and your truck should start.dont drive it like that though,you'll get crappy gas milage.
 

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