Homesteading

[DeepseekerADS]

A page or so back I saw an idea.

My chimney es kaput!

However, do I need that chimney? I could in fact route that stovepipe out a back wall, secure it and make it a chimney in itself.

I'd love to hear input on this idea.

 

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[Oregon Viking]

A page or so back I saw an idea.

My chimney es kaput!

However, do I need that chimney? I could in fact route that stovepipe out a back wall, secure it and make it a chimney in itself.

I'd love to hear input on this idea.

You could. Can you run a stovepipe down the chimney? sleeve it? I forgot what was wrong with it. Is the chimney built on the outside of the house or one of those "floor to ceiling ones"... the stone help heat the house.

 

[DeepseekerADS]

This is a 70 year old house which used to heat on each floor with wood burning stoves - except the upstairs. The chimney heat itself warmed my sanctuary = I hid upstairs - it gives me peace.

I'm not going to fix the 70 year old chimney itself, I'm looking to bypass it with a stove pipe out the far wall and up beside the West side of the house. Punch a hole into the West wall, and take it up to above the roof, anchoring it off the side of the house, and insulate it as needed.

It's one of those things I think might work, but need some serious input from others.

Am I askew in thinking about this option? I'd love some constructive input on this. I have to live here, it's home, and the gas bills put me into a constant major financial issue.

 

[Oregon Viking]

I was wondering about the chimneys condition. You can insert a stove pipe in to the chimney which acts as a sleeve. surrounded by the stone/bricks it is very efficient. Pics, need pics. Punching a hole in the wall will also work. Where the pipe goes through the wall you need a insulator, as to not heat up the wall (wood) to dangerous temperatures. Whats the chimneys major malfunction?

 

[releventchair]

Type 1/ class A is the way to go to run up alongside ,through edge of roof then above it . 3 foot above the highest part of roof / 2 foot higher than anything around it.
Cost will kick yer butt at around $ 75.00 for three foot of straight pip ,plus through wall and through roof thimble / box.

Don't run cheap pipe. I put time ,thought , support fabrication in a shop to run single wall pipe through the steel wall of a pole barn and then above the roof and still would not have trusted it for sleeping.

What safety and likely code will call for in your home will be a class A.

Any suggestions below should be ignored.
Given your possible budget....a steel box ,or empty cleaned out fuel oil tank could be used outside with your stove inside it. A cement block steel roofed hut banked with sand would be great for protecting the stove instead ,or box and stove to avoid cold when refueling.
A foot or better air space between stove and wall of box would allow a thermostat controlled blower to force warm air into a duct/ pipe to house.

Thing is ..a fire or co2 can be blown into the house too.

Another option would be burying 3 sides and the top of your double box ,and running a waterfilled coil around it and radiating heat from the water indoors. With attendant scary logistics and options of keeping water treated so not to freeze and control pressure when expanding , controlling when circulation can be accelerated, power failure at pump , and not blowing fire into the house if stove cracks or pipe fails ,or door is ajar or ect...

 

[DeepseekerADS]

The chimney ruptured on the first floor between the living room and the kitchen - had smoke pouring out through the pine board walls of the living room.

Right now I'm most considering shoving stove pipe down the chimney to the basement connection. I've been looking - insulated pipe would be pushing $700. And the cost of strictly stovepipe is around $200. I don't want to bust out the chimney in the basement to add a tee or an elbow at the junction of the stove pipe.

Gotta get myself in gear as Winter will be here soon. I am absolutely terrified of heights, so I'll have to pay to do the insertion.

Here's a picture of the house, and I figure that from the basement, it's a 30 ft riser.

For some reason that picture won't upload. Going looking for one that will.....

 

[DeepseekerADS]

I hope this actually posts, I've had an hour or so trying to get a pic to post. I had to re-boot.

 

[DeepseekerADS]

The upstairs bay is mine, Mom lives on the first floor. I'll see if I can post of picture of the basement stove....

 

[DeepseekerADS]

I went two Winters of keeping the whole house warm just running that stove, and I did have to run it hot in the very cold times, feeding it every three hours burning the good logs.

So, I guess I dried out the basement for one, and kept that chimney hotter than it had seen in its' nearly 70 years. So, the chimney cracked at the junction on the first floor for the kitchen & living room. In the kitchen Granny had her wood cook stove going, and usually in the living room Granny had an oil heater. That junction on the first floor, two inlet connections, cracked across on the living room side. Really I just need to get down past that connection and down to the basement connection for the wood stove.

I am a wee bit worried about going down with stovepipe just using it to sleeve the chimney. Last thing I want to do is bust out the chimney in the basement to add a tee or elbow.

So, the question is, with just bare stovepipe in the chimney and not exclusively connect to the stove, would the hot fumes and maybe flames go up the chimney between the wall of the chimney and the outside wall of the stove pipe.

Here's the living room connection:



Actually, I was in my early 30's then the year after I bought the farm from Granny. You can see the stove behind me with the pipe up to the concrete box out on the wall behind me.

That box cracked across.

 

[releventchair]

Have you looked at blue flame propane heaters? Friends ran a blueflame to heat their small house most times.
One in your basement ,and one on the second level might cover it.
Learn how to check for connection leaks if you use propane or gas.
The tank install at Dad's leaked at tank.........

Or pellet stoves?
( All In conjunction with co2 monitors and smoke alarms).

And yes ,fumes and fire will be free to run still with pipe dropped into chimbly and not connected directly to stove.
Were it mine ,it would be time for inspection, then if salvageable ,cleaning ,then repair.
Someone experienced( and legal) might be able to repair the cracked block from the stove pipe hole in living room block.
Beware fees for all activities, maybe even including the housecall.

Your chimbly not being cleaned could have contributed to over firing ,or even a creosote fire.
The only one I found hot may already have been mentioned. Took a brush to a former neighbors too find a wasp's nest had obstructed it.

 

[DeepseekerADS]

My chimney was clean, I swept it - have the rods & brushes.

My suspicion was in the soil beneath the chimney drying out & shifting even for just a little. I put that stove to work during the cold times. And it was the 2nd year of burning hot, this old house had never been "run" like this before. Maybe even the foundation shifted. Something moved and the chimney cracked right at the first floor inlets for stove & living room

 

[releventchair]

Ahh. Good. You did brush it. I had visions of you on the roof clinging to the chimney singing a tune from fiddler on the roof through gritted teeth...

Modern chimneys only one connection Inlet is desired.
Multiple holes / inlets in one area ( first floor) might have contributed to a weak section(?).

 

[DeepseekerADS]

Based on my suspicions and a comment from our friend releventchair, I'm figuring I can't just stuff stove pipe down the chimney without having a connection to it in the basement.

That means I have to bust out some block, put in a tee to the stove, and concrete it in again. I need a tee there so I can get the ash out of the bottom door of the chimney, and sweep that pipe yearly as a minimum.

 

[Reed Lukens]

Pull the stove, insert a flue liner from the roof down and then put a tee between the 90° above the stove and the wall outlet. You can bend the flexible flu liner the 90° to insert it into the wall connection from the inside. Once that's done, cut off the excess at the roof and put your chimney cap back on.
https://www.google.com/search?q=flu...droid-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

 

[DeepseekerADS]

Thanks for the advice Reed. I see that is really what I need to do for a fix. I am surviving though as is and keeping Mom warm. With my truck problems and re-building my second house, money is too tight this season. It's getting cold here

 

[joncutt87]

It's good to see that you're still around deep, it's been a while. I hope that all has been well.

 

[DeepseekerADS]

I made it through the Winter, just settled into running a wee bit cooler. Mom turned 92 on April 24, I have to keep the house hotter for her. My worst electric bill was right at $700 one month. Almost had a fire at the end of last cold season - kerosene heater suddenly torched up - fortunately I was right there when it happened. If it had done that when I was asleep, it may have ended very badly. I've still 10 gallons of Kerosene, so that will be for this coming Winter's cold - in emergency mode = gotta work on those Kerosene heaters before I have any kind of trust.

Once Mom passes, I have a second house on my property with a very capable chimney, and I can heat with wood again. Right now, Mom's up here and I'm here with her till she passes.

 

[DeepseekerADS]

And besides keeping the house warm for Mom.....

Gardening

This is coming my 4th season here - started with raised beds and veggies. The second year in the garden I went from Veggies to fruits. Now I have maturing plants - it's going to be better and better fruit seasons to come = expect a whole lot of berries this year, specifically blueberries and raspberries.

Those commerical grapes I set out - thought they were dead last year = they're back! and impressive = I'd given up on them.

So, here's what I have going in the orchard: Red Delicious, Yellow Delicious, Keifer Pear, Briar Apple, Blue Dawson Plum. I already had a 200 year old pear tree - but it hasn't dropped a pear since I've been home - coming into my 4th year now. And I have Walnut, Hickory nut, and a sweet sticky walnut tree I'd never heard of before.

Then there's two Mulberry trees, two sites of raspberries (invasive), new invasive gooseberries, Strawberries, now this year 5 producing blueberry bushes, evolving strawberries, bunch of invasive blackberries = some berries last year, but they've really taken over this year / the have now about 1/4 of my lower garden ( they'd better be giving me some quality berries this year! )

One or two more years and I'll be living on berries, and the end of the 2nd year from now I should end up as the berry guy at the farmers market = in fruit as well as plants for sale.

Just have to fumble my way through this. Delights for Mom this season, and the following season should delight us all.

Ain't berries and fruit the greatest?

Keep the faith!

 

[A2coins]

I would love to do that peaceful rewarding off the grid Dream of mine as well

 

[A2coins]

Make a room under your home let the ground keep it insulated warm and safe Wow how awesome