Detector Advice Needed

[krazii]

Hello,

I'm am new to your forum/website and so far I've found it to be great. I hunted over 15 years ago with many different detectors, fisher, garrett and the first whites before swearing it off because it I couldn't do anything else. However, I'm going to get back into it and am looking for some advice on which detector to buy (the cost of the detector is not a consideration). I've read alot about the White's DFX and XLT and from my previous experience with Whites Detectors I really liked them alot (as long as I carried a couple spare battery packs). Anyhow, I will be doing mainly park/house/beach hunting for the time being and would appreciate any advice anyone can give regarding which detector I should look at buying?

Thanks,

 

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[slow sweeper]

If price is no object get the DFX, an extra smaller than stock coil with a lower rod for quick changes, and a $100 +/- pair of headphones made for metal detecting. A set of good rechargeable batteries will save you money in the long run if you detect a lot. A good strong digger and an untouched site to detect and you're on your way. In my personal opinion of course.

 

[Rich in Texas]

I agree with Slow! Nothing to add to that except that the DFX comes with a rechargable battery pack and charger. I have used it all day without recharging.

Rich

 

[wmas1960]

I have an XLT that I really like. It is an older model, I bought it in 1999 and it is marked Spectrum. I don't know if there is any significant difference between it and what you would buy today. I have never had any issue with batteries. I can't imagine you needing a replacement of batteries in a single outing. I don't use the rechargables since they sat uncharged in the case for about 4 years since I bought it. I bought the detector before going down to FLA for a trip to help my parents. Thinking I was going to get back down that winter, I left it at their place till I could get back and use it on the beach. Well, due to health problems, they didn't get back down for a couple years and it just sat in a closet for some time with the batteries uncharged. Then, I shipped it home where it sat for another year and a half, or so, till I could find time and opportunity to use it again.

So, I use the regular battery pack and put Energizer Lithiums in it. I use the lithiums due to their long shelf life. Since the detector is an object that, especially through a winter season, can go some time without use, I like the idea of the lithiums shelf life so that it will be ready to use when I want to use it. I put the first set in when I was down in FLA before I shipped it back home. I had an extra set of Lithiums, on hand, in my camera bag, for use with my flash and digital camera, and with the rechargable uncharged, I used those so I could go right out on the beach while the rechargable charged. I ended up just using the lithiums through that trip. Then, when I got the XLT back out, almost 2 years later, it was still reporting a 14v + charge. I continued to use them for about 2 months till I started to experience some difficulty with pinpointing and I replaced them. Then, the second set has gone another 2 months with regular usage. I should say, I don't know how these batteries would compare, in the XLT, to Alkalines. I do know that, in some items, like my scanner radio, the lithiums have no advantage, with continuous use, over alkalines. Maybe for short term use, in the XLT, Alkalines would be just as good and cheaper. The main benefit of the lithiums being, the long term shelf life if there might be lengthy times when the detector will just sit idle.

I have considered buying a new rechargable pack or two but have put it to the side because of the lack of space that I have and all the dedicated chargers that I have for things from cordless power tools, to radios and cameras, cellphones and toys etc., There are just so many of those little transformers around here that, eventually it is impossible to know what goes with what. Not to mention, I don't think there is a free outlet anywhere in this house for another one.

The good thing about the XLT was that it came with both. A AA size holder for disposable batteries and the rechargable. So, you do have the choice. I can't imagine that you could go wrong getting one spare rechargable and being able to swap back and forth if you really want. I bought a Pelican 1550 case that I put my detector in.

The battery packs and charger are in the case, in holes that I plucked under the coil in the above picture. The poles for the detector lay right over the top of everything with the manuals over them. What you could do is keep the battery pack loaded with some Lithiums for long term shelf life (they are rated for 10 years) and have your rechargable(s). That way, if you get stuck, you would have a set of regular batteries ready to go. Maybe keep a second set of regular batteries in the case, just in case.

In the end, as I said, in a single outing, I can't imagine you exhausting a single pack. With the amount of detecting that I have done, a single pack has lasted me a couple months. I would estimate, that might be equivelant to about 12 hours of continuous hunting.

 

[rvbvetter]

In 95 i stopped detecting, after avidly hunting since the 70's.
Then 8 months ago took it back up. But being clueless of what advancements had been made since my absence. I started visiting detector shops and gathered a mound of brochures, and surfed the web. And found out that there has been no change. Which ever brand you talk to. Theirs is still better than the rest.
But i found there has been some nice advancements. The detectors of today, ( at least the name brands ) are much superior, from detectors of 15 and even 10 yrs. ago.
Their considerably deeper, more accurate, but also with a heftier price, and with, whats became known as the learning curve. Some steeper than others. Akin to learning a computer.
This is not an attempt to deter you. Because, like i found out. Once your over the hump, these machines of today are truly impressive.
Last detector i had when i quit, was the whites eagle. Which i really liked.
So when i started again, i bought the Whites DFX but also bought a Minelab Explorer II and a Minelab Musketeer Advantage. And couldn't be happier with my choices. What great machines.
This is not to get you to buy these, because i think any name brand of today will do a great job. But to say that i would have no reservations in reccomending the Whites or Minelab detectors.
HH

 

[Rusty Reel]

I bought a Pelican 1550 case that I put my detector in.

The battery packs and charger are in the case, in holes that I plucked under the coil in the above picture. The poles for the detector lay right over the top of everything with the manuals over them.

wmas1960....is that case carry on size? I've been looking for one for quite some time and don't like the idea of my XLT going in the basement of the plane. Just don't trust the airlines enough to leave it out of my sight. I managed to borrow a water detector from a friend a year back that I could get into my carry on for a trip to Cozumel, but it wasn't the best solution. You should have seen the lady customs agent in Mexico when she inspected my bag. I think it spooked her more than a little when she saw all the wiring and I had to try to explain in broken Spanish what it was. It was a hoot!

 

[wmas1960]

Sorry to have not responded sooner. Your reply slipped by and I just noticed it today.

As for your question, yes and no. Looking at the dimensions and what the airlines mention for a carry on, it should fit. When I bought the case, that was my concern. I went to the Pelican website and got the dimensions and went to a United ticket office near me. I talked to the agent there and we looked everywhere we could. On the tickets as well as other literature that was handy. The written dimensions were such that you could assume that the case would conform to the regulations.

Then, With that info, I bought the case for my up coming trip. I then went to the airport and when I tried to put it through the xray, it wouldn't fit through the template that goes over the opening. It was only an inch off. No doubt it would fit in an over head bin and all. If it were a soft case, it would have gone through. However, being ridgid, it wouldn't go. Problem was that the manufacturers dimensions didn't allow for the feet, handle and latches. The anchors for the hinges and the anchors for the latches made it about 1/2" or so too big. I tried to talk sense to the security person but she/he, (Can't remember) wouldn't yield. They forced me to check it through.

What I have taken to do is put it in a box and ship it back and forth when I go. I could just slap a label on it and send it FedEX as it does meat ATA (Airline Transport Association) Specifications for a cargo container. But I believe that it just screams, steal me. So, by putting it in a plain box, you disquise it a little. Also. putting in a box will protect it from some of the scuffs and wear that you might get from shipping or checking. You could, wrap it in a couple towels and put it in a larger, plain suitcase and check it. But, be advised that it may be an item that the airlines will specifically refuse responsibilities for. See back of your tickets for the airlines disclaimers of liability. Cameras, cash, pharmacuticals, jewelry, electronics.....

I find the case very useful for shipping, as I mentioned above. In addition to the padding and protection in that respect, Also, it is good for long term storage. Especially if you might have to store your detector in a garage or basement or other area of limited climate control and where there might be a flooding risk. The case has an airtite seal and will seal completely from humidity and moisture. There is a bolt on the front that, when tightened, will allow the case to be completely air and water tite. Thus why the cases are popular with divers for carrying equipement. You, as I have read, could drop it overboard from a boat and the case should float.

On the first trip, where I had to check it on the plane, I was nervous all during the trip. The detector was brand new and I was afraid it wouldn't be there when I got to baggage claim. I rushed down to claim it and then went right to the rental car bus. After driving from Fort Myers to Marco Island, FL, (about 45 minute drive), I got all my luggage up to the apartment and tried to open the case. It didn't have a lock on it but wouldn't budge. I was getting ready to get a screwdriver and try and pry it open, wondering what the hell could have happened to jam it so. Then, I remembered about the O-Ring around the case. I turned the little bolt under the handle and heard a hiss. Just like a jar of peanuts. The case then opened. Seems that during the flight, with changes in pressure and temperatures, air was forced out of the case during flight, causing a vaccum inside. A vaccum that, as I mention, lasted more than an hour and a half, probably.

Further, I use these cases for a lot of stuff. I have a MEADE LX90 8" Schmidt telescope that I have a Pelican case for.

I also have a small brief case size case that I carry the telescope accessories in. As another example of what these cases are capable of, on several occasions I set up the telescope outside in the middle of the winter. Generally you set up a scope a couple hours before you want to use it. To allow all the lenses etc. to cool down and change. (They change sizes in heat and cold). After about 5 or 6 hours in near 0 temperatures, it is usually time to head inside for the night. Problem with something like a telescope or camera or other such items is that when you take a cold item from the cold dry outdoors, into warm humidified air, like that inside your house, condensation will form and freeze on the outside surfaces of the cold item. Like your cold beer on a hot summer day. Except, due to the 0 degree temps, it will actually freeze. I have seen pictures of scopes with an inch or more of ice on them. Think of the damage to the lens coatings etc... that could occour. Anyway, what I do is, I take the cases out with me. Open them up and let them get real cold, inside and out. Thouroughly frozen if you will. Then, after a night of observing I pack the scope and all my accessories in the cases. I take my digital camera and any film etc. and put them in zip lock bags and force out as much air as possible. Then seal them. I close the cases and latch them and bring them inside. In a matter of minutes, ice begins to form on the outside of the cases. After about an hour, there can often be a thick coating of ICE on the cases. I leave them sealed up and open them later the NEXT DAY. After almost 24 hours, the cases will be all wet outside. Inside though the equipment is still quite cold but bone dry.

Of course, you won't need to worry about protecting your detector from such issues as you probably aren't using it in near 0 temps. However, if you were storing your detector in a garage, there might be some similar thermal protection from the cold, while it is stored. Mainly though, the above should illustrate the moisture protection that these cases can provide.

 

[Rusty Reel]

Thanks for all the great advice. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I think I'll buy the case and take my chances regarding the carry on issue. Sounds like it depends what airline your flying or what agent you run into when checking in. I'm also going to invest in TSA approved locks so they don't get cut off if I do have to check it. But I guess if someone wants it bad enough they will get it anyway. I also like the idea about shipping it to the hotel, at least you could insure it. I'm planning a trip to Arizona where my Dad lives, I'll just ship it to him and see how it goes. Thanks again.

HH

Mark