Blasting and Rock Breaking

[Reed Lukens]

Hi John, I'm going to ask a different question here. Maybe there's someone else too that has useful experience. I know the sierra blaster and micro blasters have been talked about a lot here on T-net already but I haven't been able to find great answers to my question yet.

I am interested in a micro-blaster or sierra blaster for mineral collecting and possibly gold prospecting purposes. It's one of those things I don't exactly have a spot for right now where I NEED one, but I tell myself I will use if I had one and seeing a good deal on a used sierra blaster I'm wondering if I should jump on it. I'm looking for the lightest, most portable system. First, I thought the original microblaster with one head and a pull lanyard trigger would be best because no compressed air or electricity source is needed for a trigger. Then I realized that with only one head you don't have any control over how rock will break. I also read that the microblaster charges can be pretty finicky while sierra blasters are more robust. How compact of a system can ou expect running a sierra blaster of a battery? How big of a battery is needed and can all sierra blaster systems be used with a battery? Also, is one of these really practical for trying to get crystals out of wall rock or would they be too destructive? I read the sierra blaster charges pack more of a punch.

Then there's the drill and weight associated with that. Not sure how many holes you can drill on a charge.

Just looking for some advice, thanks!

If you see a good deal on a Sierra blaster and want to pass on it, shoot it my way I have a 6 head system that gets a lot of use. A simple SDSplus is all that you need to drill the 10mm holes and the bits that they sell from Sierra Blaster are fast drilling. But, that being said, we also use a full sized SDSmax with a 1-1/2" bit for drilling our expansion holes. There are battery operated drills and also an enclosed battery Sierra Blaster detonator that will fire the charges also that isn't listed on their website, just call them and ask. We run everything of ours, drills, ventilation, lights and the Sierra Blaster with a little Honda 2000i generator because they are light weight and can be carried in easily stacked in a wheelbarrow with all of your gear.
Watch out for those great deals though, I had found one here to add to my set up, but after I looked at it and added everything up, I could have bought it cheaper from SB brand new. I would like to find a few more heads for ours but watch those prices. One guy here wanted $1000 for his whole, complete, well used 1 head system... when you can buy it new for $250.00 less... $725.00 for a complete single head system right now, looks like they've lowered their prices.

Here's my videos on the Sierra Blaster

 

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[Reed Lukens]

Then a pic of the price list pdf.

 

[OwenT]

If you see a good deal on a Sierra blaster and want to pass on it, shoot it my way I have a 6 head system that gets a lot of use. A simple SDSplus is all that you need to drill the 10mm holes and the bits that they sell from Sierra Blaster are fast drilling. But, that being said, we also use a full sized SDSmax with a 1-1/2" bit for drilling our expansion holes. There are battery operated drills and also an enclosed battery Sierra Blaster detonator that will fire the charges also that isn't listed on their website, just call them and ask. We run everything of ours, drills, ventilation, lights and the Sierra Blaster with a little Honda 2000i generator because they are light weight and can be carried in easily stacked in a wheelbarrow with all of your gear.
Watch out for those great deals though, I had found one here to add to my set up, but after I looked at it and added everything up, I could have bought it cheaper from SB brand new. I would like to find a few more heads for ours but watch those prices. One guy here wanted $1000 for his whole, complete, well used 1 head system... when you can buy it new for $250.00 less... $725.00 for a complete single head system right now, looks like they've lowered their prices.

Here's my videos on the Sierra Blaster

I'll send you the info. Act fast.

 

[BlasterJ]

Well if you have some 4-1/4" shank rod, just use an abrasive wheel chop saw and cut slow, not to overheat exactly one inch off the striking end and champher the perimeter a bit on the belt sander and you'll have a 7/8 - 3-1/4 inch steel to run in the CP. It's done all the time and you don't need to stock but one length of shank.

If you have a source for used steels, I would be interested. I have successfully straightened them with a 10 ton hydraulic press as well. Our local rental places usually keep the compressors maintained, but are pretty hit and miss on their drilling stuff.

 

[tamrock]

If you have a source for used steels, I would be interested. I have successfully straightened them with a 10 ton hydraulic press as well. Our local rental places usually keep the compressors maintained, but are pretty hit and miss on their drilling stuff.

The used stuff is around. Are you looking for the H Thread type or the tapered end steel?

 

[BlasterJ]

The used stuff is around. Are you looking for the H Thread type or the tapered end steel?

H Thread, but won't pass up a good deal either.

 

[tamrock]

H Thread, but won't pass up a good deal either.

The equipment rental yards are the biggest users of the H thread and those when broken are mostly when the threads snap off which make them un-repairable. The tappered stuff is generally bent or plugged up which we use a long stainless steel brake line adapted to a pressure washer to jab in the flush hole and try to unplug. Also the tapper bits cost a lot less than the H thread bits. That H thread is really an old design and just tempered carbon steel, not worth the price imo, but the rental yards will always be a consumer of those. I had over 200 rental yard customers in my area of Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Nevada, West Texas and Arizona when I worked at Brunner & Lay and sold tons of H thread product to all those rental companies. All the mines that run jacklegs run the 7/8" tapper rod, which is carburized steel and knock off bits because of it being a better tougher design and a lot less money over H rod and bits. I'll see what I can dig up on anyone who might have a pile of bent and plugged tapper stuff, which if I was you would convert to.

 

[BlasterJ]

The equipment rental yards are the biggest users of the H thread and those when broken are mostly when the threads snap off which make them un-repairable. The tappered stuff is generally bent or plugged up which we use a long stainless steel brake line adapted to a pressure washer to jab in the flush hole and try to unplug. Also the tapper bits cost a lot less than the H thread bits. That H thread is really an old design and just tempered carbon steel, not worth the price imo, but the rental yards will always be a consumer of those. I had over 200 rental yard customers in my area of Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Nevada, West Texas and Arizona when I worked at Brunner & Lay and sold tons of H thread product to all those rental companies. All the mines that run jacklegs run the 7/8" tapper rod, which is carburized steel and knock off bits because of it being a better tougher design and a lot less money over H rod and bits. I'll see what I can dig up on anyone who might have a pile of bent and plugged tapper stuff, which if I was you would convert to.

That would be great. Is the 11 or 12 degree most common these days? Every time I ask crusty old miners, I get a different answer.

What's interesting about H thread, is that I have found old Carbon steel H-thread bits at abandoned mines all over the West.

 

[IMAUDIGGER]

Why mess with expensive and underrated cordless tools when portable lightweight generators are so inexpensive these days? The corded tools are built better for these types of heavy duty use and are usually less expensive when batteries costs are considered...then you still need portable power to recharge...you can then power lights and ventilation fans...lots of benefits of having corded power.

 

[BlasterJ]

Why mess with expensive and underrated cordless tools when portable lightweight generators are so inexpensive these days? The corded tools are built better for these types of heavy duty use and are usually less expensive when batteries costs are considered...then you still need portable power to recharge...you can then power lights and ventilation fans...lots of benefits of having corded power.

It depends on how self-contained you need to be. I've done cave stuff that is thousands of feet from the entrance. But I agree that there is no comparison in power to a nice SDS MAX drill.

The Honda EU2000 and similar generators can be packed in by one strong person if needed. We've done it for a gate project.

 

[Reed Lukens]

Why mess with expensive and underrated cordless tools when portable lightweight generators are so inexpensive these days? The corded tools are built better for these types of heavy duty use and are usually less expensive when batteries costs are considered...then you still need portable power to recharge...you can then power lights and ventilation fans...lots of benefits of having corded power.

Really, you only need the cordless for underwater drilling unless you're going pneumatic, which takes on a different set of problems

 

[tamrock]

That would be great. Is the 11 or 12 degree most common these days? Every time I ask crusty old miners, I get a different answer.

What's interesting about H thread, is that I have found old Carbon steel H-thread bits at abandoned mines all over the West.

When I was selling tons of Jack leg steel in the 1990s I was pushing the hell out of 11° rod. I only did that because I didn't wanna see some places running 12° and others going with 11°, because that would kinda screw things up for the factory in trying to keep up with some buying this and others buying that. Either is fine and both 11 & 12 are pretty plentiful these days, but 11° is still more readily available. 12° is better when your drilling holes that are 1-1/4" and 1-1/8" because those size bits grip better to the profile of the 12° tapper which does have more of a friction bearing surface over the 11° tapper. So before I answer which is better tell me what size holes will you be drilling the majority of.? The standard bit sizes for tapper steel are 1-1/8, 1-1/4, 1-1/2, 1-5/8 & 1-3/4 inch. These bits come in button carbide and blade carbide. The button design cost considerably more than the blade style. Button type do seem to run further and most button type bits are being made for the 12° rod. 11° button bits are rarely stocked, but there's always an availability of 11° blade cross bits in this country in all sizes.

 

[BlasterJ]

When I was selling tons of Jack leg steel in the 1990s I was pushing the hell out of 11° rod. I only did that because I didn't wanna see some places running 12° and others going with 11°, because that would kinda screw things up for the factory in trying to keep up with some buying this and others buying that. Either is fine and both 11 & 12 are pretty plentiful these days, but 11° is still more readily available. 12° is better when your drilling holes that are 1-1/4" and 1-1/8" because those size bits grip better to the profile of the 12° tapper which does have more of a friction bearing surface over the 11° tapper. So before I answer which is better tell me what size holes will you be drilling the majority of.? The standard bit sizes for tapper steel are 1-1/8, 1-1/4, 1-1/2, 1-5/8 & 1-3/4 inch. These bits come in button carbide and blade carbide. The button design cost considerably more than the blade style. Button type do seem to run further and most button type bits are being made for the 12° rod. 11° button bits are rarely stocked, but there's always an availability of 11° blade cross bits in this country in all sizes.

If I'm running the Pionjar, I'm usually doing 1 5/8-1/34" holes for 1.5x16" packaged emulsion or a binary charge. I don't have a pneumatic ANFO loader, so I can't use ANFO unless we rent a bigger drill and do 2.5" or larger holes.

Ideally, I'd like to have a set of 7/8 x 4 1/4 and 1" for different equipment. I have a set of H-thread steels and a bunch of spare carbide bits for the Pionjar, so not as worried about that one.

If you come across a pile of used salvage steel, I'd go for it and have my friend who runs the Hidee Gold Mine tour grab it and I'd give them whatever isn't needed to add to their display.

 

[tamrock]

If I'm running the Pionjar, I'm usually doing 1 5/8-1/34" holes for 1.5x16" packaged emulsion or a binary charge. I don't have a pneumatic ANFO loader, so I can't use ANFO unless we rent a bigger drill and do 2.5" or larger holes.

Ideally, I'd like to have a set of 7/8 x 4 1/4 and 1" for different equipment. I have a set of H-thread steels and a bunch of spare carbide bits for the Pionjar, so not as worried about that one.

If you come across a pile of used salvage steel, I'd go for it and have my friend who runs the Hidee Gold Mine tour grab it and I'd give them whatever isn't needed to add to their display.

I'll try to remember to keep an eye on any surplus and good used steel out there. By the way, is your friends name Chris?

 

[BlasterJ]

I'll try to remember to keep an eye on any surplus and good used steel out there. By the way, is your friends name Chris?

Dave Hunsicker and his dad Steven Narboe. They are also on Colorado Front Range Mine Rescue Team. Good guys. I recommend the Hidee tour if anyone is making the I-70 drive out of Denver. They even let you chip out some Gold ore from the working vein and take it home at the end of the tour.

 

[BlasterJ]

Why mess with expensive and underrated cordless tools when portable lightweight generators are so inexpensive these days? The corded tools are built better for these types of heavy duty use and are usually less expensive when batteries costs are considered...then you still need portable power to recharge...you can then power lights and ventilation fans...lots of benefits of having corded power.

@IMAUDIGGER: Do you have a recommendation for a heavy-duty hammer drill in the $150-500 range that will work on a 2000W small generator? Interested in your experience.

 

[tamrock]

@IMAUDIGGER: Do you have a recommendation for a heavy-duty hammer drill in the $150-500 range that will work on a 2000W small generator? Interested in your experience.

I did an msha annual refresher at the Edgar mine run by the School of Miners and meet a fellow there named Chris who said he works at the Hidee and I put his name and number in my contacts. I know the guy who operates the Phoenix mine in Idaho springs. He bought some resin roof bolts from me last summer and took me in the tour mine for a look around. Going back to your drill steel and bits the hole sizes you do, I'd go with the 7/8" 11° and if you do a bigger hole than 1-3/4" for any reason I'd do those with the H Thread as there's a bit they make that goes up to 3" I believe and a bit that size on a tapper rod just wouldn't stay on the steel.

 

[IMAUDIGGER]

@IMAUDIGGER: Do you have a recommendation for a heavy-duty hammer drill in the $150-500 range that will work on a 2000W small generator? Interested in your experience.

I may have opened my mouth without much experience to back it.
The only drilling I’ve been around involved concrete and the tools were much more expensive.

I do know cordless tools are very impressive now days, but I feel like the corded tools are built better for less money.

For remote areas, you might have to pack in two smaller generators and connect them together as a way to be able to run a more substantial tool.

 

[BlasterJ]

I may have opened my mouth without much experience to back it.
The only drilling I’ve been around involved concrete and the tools were much more expensive.

I do know cordless tools are very impressive now days, but I feel like the corded tools are built better for less money.

For remote areas, you might have to pack in two smaller generators and connect them together as a way to be able to run a more substantial tool.

Fair enough - this might be one of those tools that is better for the average person to rent a few weekends a year vs. buy. Especially if you can get a $1200 Bosch demo hammer/drill a few times vs. a $200 Harbor Freight unit that may break in the same timeframe.

 

[IMAUDIGGER]

I've got a shaft that my dad and I rappelled into that had decent detectable gold.
We hand chiseled out what we could but stopped when it got hard.

I'd like to pack a cordless drill in there and break a little more rock out to maybe take home another 1/2'ounce.
If it paid, I'd pack in a predator 2000w generator and just leave it there.

Currently I'm just really don't have a method for limited controlled blasting.
It's a little sketch so I wouldn't want to go overboard on blasting.