12 INCH TROMMEL BUILD

I used walker legs on my build originally. I found that if you get any dirt in the legs they get really tough to adjust. Make sure you cover them so that dirt and dirty water don't run down them.

My 2 cents.


Remnar
 

Started to piece it all together to see how it will all come together as a working system. Lots of small items to complete, but in all everything looks like it will all work.

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Looking great! What is your plan for a feed hopper?
 

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Looking good AZ
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Have you thought about a design for a shroud/slurry chute/hopper to direct and make sure all the slurry goes neatly into the top end of the sluice?
Also did you remember not to drill any holes into the spray bar after it enters into the drilled out punch plate section?
If you didn't then the shroud will be even more important.

Check out the shroud/chute on this puppy.........
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GG~
 

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I still have to build the chute/shroud/hopper/backflow ring, and whatever I decide to do to the inside of the cylinder to agitate the rock and dirt. The holes in the spray bar end just before the holes in the cylinder. As I have said I have lots of small items to still work on. With the amount of holes in the cylinder and the slow RPM's of the cylinder I feel that I do not need a huge shroud. For the shroud I plan to roll a piece of metal and slope it downwards from the exit end of the trommel towards the engine. The shroud will attach to the top and bottom side rails of the cage. The entire shroud thing will be a work in progress until I start that phase of the build. I have decided to install a punch plate at the top of the sluice so that the paydirt hits the punch plate and spreads out and down the sluice. Most likely the sluice will be on the other side of the trommel away from the valves.

The hopper will be a build as I go. I want a large removable hopper of which will have spray bar in a U shape and the bottom of the hopper sloping downward into the backflow ring.

Goodguy did you see my spray bar test video?

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Awesome spray! That should do a great job of washing the rocks and supplying the sluice :icon_thumright:
Possibly you may need to install a length of rubber damper on the sluice to prevent too much turbulence and to knock down the fine gold.

GG~
 

russau said:
AZ i got your email but it didnt have the attachment for the drill guide layout.could you please resend it? russau at ya hoo .com
Click to expand...

Will send it your way. Doitlaynstyle pointed out an error of which I have corrected. Somehow when I made his drill temp. I had extended the length and did not get everything aligned and a section was off by 1/16". It was a matter of copying and pasting after I had made a section and I had screwed up. But the copy you will receive is dead on...

Goodyguy said:
Possibly you may need to install a length of rubber damper on the sluice to prevent too much turbulence and to knock down the fine gold.

GG~
Click to expand...

I had planned to place a rubber mat hung from a bar across the width of the sluice to smooth out the water at the head of the sluice. If you watched Gold Rush Fred used mats to tame the flow of water he called Roostertails.

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russau said:
Thankyou Keith! i got it and im running copys of it now, plus i stored it into my "favorites" for future use!
Click to expand...

You will need to stretch out the image in word and print a single copy. Measure from line to line and you should have 1/2". If not stretch it out until you get to 1/2" and reprint. When I say stretch it out I mean drag the corner of the image so it stretches evenly. Once you get it right then save the word doc. and print from the doc. I am going to email you the word doc. that is stretched for printing on 8.5" x 14" paper and is on 1/2" centers from line to line or 1" centers from drill hole to drill hole.
 

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Goodyguy said:
Possibly you may need to install a length of rubber damper on the sluice to prevent too much turbulence and to knock down the fine gold.

GG~
Click to expand...

Goodguy here is what I plan on making to smooth out the water dumping into the sluice from the trommel. I already machine the UHMW material. Need to get some rubber and cut it to size and screw it in place.

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Here are the photos of the finished water damper that will be used to smooth out the water entering the sluice box. I will use four #6 stainless screws to secure the UHMW material to the sluice box. The bottom of the damper is about 1/4" of off the Gold Hog UR Mat. I use 1/8" rubber mat.

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Looking good! If you leave the screws that hold the rod to the box loose the damper will swing like a dog door. Attach a couple weights to the bottom of the damper as necessary to hold the damper down into the flow. I dont know that the water flow would be strong enough to flex the rubber alone. Most likely would just start over flowing the sides and the damper... I'm basing my guess by the picture of you flexing the rubber, looks like you want the water to force its way under and past it.
 

Doitlaynstyle said:
Looking good! If you leave the screws that hold the rod to the box loose the damper will swing like a dog door. Attach a couple weights to the bottom of the damper as necessary to hold the damper down into the flow. I dont know that the water flow would be strong enough to flex the rubber alone. Most likely would just start over flowing the sides and the damper... I'm basing my guess by the picture of you flexing the rubber, looks like you want the water to force its way under and past it.
Click to expand...

No need to loosen the screws as I do not need it to pivot on the screws. The rubber I used is very soft rubber. Has no nylon or woven fibers, its just rubber. Any flow of water will move the damper upwards. Plus the bottom of the damper is a good 1/4" off of the Gold Hog Mats.
 

I am in Scottsdale, Az. at the Mayo Clinic. My brother is still in surgery. Surgery began at 8am and its now 6pm.
 

Keeping you both in my thoughts brother.
 

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THANK YOU FOR THE NEW TROMMEL FORUM!!!!!!!

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