Truly Affordable Hookah Dive System Anyone Can Afford (How To Instructions)

Eric Willoughby

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Jun 4, 2009
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Ok, for those of you who have been just chomping at the bit to own an affordable dive system for your underwater hunts.

You can learn a little about Hookah style diving here: http://www.keeneengineering.com/pamphlets/howhookah.html


CHOOSING THE RIGHT SYSTEM:

These dive systems do have thier limitations they are rated as a "low pressure" system.... a single man system will take a person to a depth of 30-40 feet deep MAX
while a 2 person system will take 2 divers to 30-40 feet and a single diver to 60 feet. There are systems out there what will perform deeper, but then we are talking about more exspensive high-pressure delivery systems.

Low pressure means just that, low pressure, but it produces a high volume amount of air. The deeper you go, the more air compresses, the less volume you will need, but it needs more force to get to your lungs, this is where a high pressure system is needed.

What I am listing below are SHALLOW low-pressure dive units.

Here is what you need......

Top 3 recommended Oilless belt-driven Air Pumps:

Thomas T-80 40-50 psi pump (single person) retail: $299.00
T80.jpg



Brown PC 875 (single person) 55-65 psi pump retail: Unknown
A great alternative to the T-80, these are said to last longer and produce 30% more air. These are oilless air pumps used in Dental Clinics to power air tools. You have to look hard for these, I havent seen many around. Hopefully you will have better luck than I have in search of these pumps.
BrownPC-875pump.jpg



Thomas 263 (2 person) 125 psi pump retail: $575.00
263.jpg


If you shop around on E-bay, Craigslist, and call several mining supply and gold dredge supply stores, you can find these pumps used and for alot less money. They pop up often and without warning, so if you can't find one available right away, be patient and keep searching, they will show up! I have seen the T-80 models on sale for $80 up to $200 depending on how much they are used. If you find one for dirt cheap that doesnt work (pay no more than $50), they are extremely easy to repair and the parts kit costs around $30


Next is the engine to drive the pump.


GreyHound 6.5hp weight, 40lbs retail: $149.00 (Harbor Frieght) $85.00 (Ebay)
Greyhound65.jpg

This engine has more power than what is needed to run the pump, but not too much difference in price compared to the smaller engine listed below.


GreyHound 2.5hp retail: $119.00 (Harbor Frieght) Advantage with this engine is lighter weight
Greyhound25.jpg



Next, here is something you can duplicate yourself really cheaply to float your system. All you really need is a truck inner tube and something to be used as a platform to mount the engine and pump.
TF2.jpg



Then, what you need is your delivery system.

You will need FOOD GRADE air hose, 250 psi rated, this can be obtained from any hose supplier in your area. I recently checked with a supplier in my area, and this hose is going for 50 cents a foot, if you do this, you can have a custom-length hose. The extra thing that you will need done is to have the hose couplings crimped on at a hydraulic hose shop, or you can use the press-in barbed fitting with hose clamps.... 1/4 inch male and female threaded couplings are needed.

The third choice is to buy the hose already set up and ready to go from Keene Engineering.
AH.jpg


20 ft. $35
30 ft. $50
100 ft. $155


How to set up your hose:

Run a 6 foot lead hose (male thread on one end, female thread on the other) Male end connects to the pump,
thread_fitting_hose_coupling_v1_jpg_200x200.jpg


at the other end, you attach a female coupling,
Hose_coupling_v0_jpg_200x200.jpg


From the female coupling, you thread on a female quick-connect coupling (one end is male threaded)
aircoup22.gif


At both ends of the air reserve tank, you will screw in the male quick-connects that look
like this:
airplug22.gif


(single person tank) retail $69
RT1.jpg


(2 person tank) retail: $225
RT4.jpg


(cheaper alternative version of air reserve tank, 1 or 2 person. Food grade Co2 tank from any keg supply company)
Retail: $95
10PoundCO2.jpg


Then you attach your main air line (whichever APPRORIATE length you choose) to the other end of the air reserve bottle in the same fashion as your previous connection.

Next, you attach a female threaded coupling to the hose that exactly matches the male threaded coupling that is on your 2nd Stage Adjustable Dive Regulator.
2ndstageregulator.jpg


Here is Keene's illustration of the entire system:
TypicalDive.jpg


Keene recommends using a harness for your regulator, I believe this is wrong and potentially dangerous, they are far to easy to get snagged onto things underwater, and they are a pain in the neck to put on and take off (I had used one for a year, I HATED IT). The safest way to attach the air line to you is to velcro-strap it to your upper arm.

Regulators can be found new and for good prices on Ebay and other sources online, but can also be had at real rock-bottom prices from scuba dive shops looking to sell off and replace thier older rentals. I buy mine this way, the shops are always happy to also throw in fresh new valves and springs before sending out the door, and they always work like new. You can easly have a $300 regulator for a price of $30-$50 bucks if you shop around.


If you want to really be sporting stylish and be comfortable, as well as have the ability to talk and sing to yourself while under water, go with a full face mask. All you do is cut the zip-tie that is holding on your regulator mouth piece, remove the mouth piece and plug it into the mouth of the mask and zip-tie it snug on the inside. Voila! SIMPLE, and you will absolutely love it and you will never experience jaw fatigue ever again.

Cressi Full Face Mask Retail: $75-$100

CressiMask.jpg




I hope this will be of use to a few of you out there! :thumbsup:
 

What you describe can work fine for the experienced scuba person, but for a newbie looking for a cheap way to get into Hookah its far safer to go with a professional setup. There is also the cost of a BCD and weights that are necessary to crawl along the bottom.

The finds more than offset the cost being able to get out that extra 20-30 feet. :thumbsup:
 

dazoff said:
What you describe can work fine for the experienced scuba person, but for a newbie looking for a cheap way to get into Hookah its far safer to go with a professional setup. There is also the cost of a BCD and weights that are necessary to crawl along the bottom.

The finds more than offset the cost being able to get out that extra 20-30 feet. :thumbsup:
I agree :icon_thumright: I do not own one yet but would love to. My self I would not try this I would rather get one that is built by the pro's to much to gamble on here.
 

Cap'n Crunch, I would like to thank you for posting the information. I greatly appreciate the work and effort you have put into this posting. On top of that, it is exactly the kind of think I have been looking for as I am working on getting a hookah setup for this coming year. I have been debating whether to buy or build my own and this has helped me A LOT!!

Many thanks and please do not let anyone rain on your parade. You have provided excellent information and it is sorely needed. :notworthy:
 

TheRandyMan said:
Cap'n Crunch, I would like to thank you for posting the information. I greatly appreciate the work and effort you have put into this posting. On top of that, it is exactly the kind of think I have been looking for as I am working on getting a hookah setup for this coming year. I have been debating whether to buy or build my own and this has helped me A LOT!!

Many thanks and please do not let anyone rain on your parade. You have provided excellent information and it is sorely needed. :notworthy:


Thank you Randy, I really appreciate that alot. PM me anytime, if you need help with anything. :icon_thumleft:
 

CC,
I am not saying it's a mickey mouse outfit. It is a very informative post, I'm just saying that I wouldn't build one my self for the fact that I never have used one. It would be different if I have been doing this for a while and over the years have had to replace this that or the other thing. But like I said I don't have one but would like one and would rather buy one built by a company that knows what they are doing and is reputable.
Just my .02
HH-drewan
 

drewan29 said:
CC,
I am not saying it's a mickey mouse outfit. It is a very informative post, I'm just saying that I wouldn't build one my self for the fact that I never have used one. It would be different if I have been doing this for a while and over the years have had to replace this that or the other thing. But like I said I don't have one but would like one and would rather buy one built by a company that knows what they are doing and is reputable.
Just my .02
HH-drewan


Oh ok, thanks for clearing that up. :wink:
 

Cap'n Crunch said:
drewan29 said:
CC,
I am not saying it's a mickey mouse outfit. It is a very informative post, I'm just saying that I wouldn't build one my self for the fact that I never have used one. It would be different if I have been doing this for a while and over the years have had to replace this that or the other thing. But like I said I don't have one but would like one and would rather buy one built by a company that knows what they are doing and is reputable.
Just my .02
HH-drewan
No problem now if you had plans for a dredge or and nice sluice box I wouldn't have a problem building one of those lol.

Oh ok, thanks for clearing that up. :wink:
 

Capt'n Crunch you did an excellent job on making that post. Took a lot of time and well worth reading.

I am an experienced diver and also a Hookah diver, though I aren't supposed to dive anymore I aren't in the box yet. My first system was from Kneene and it worked well. Till I gave it to a relative and then bought a J-sink all assembled cause I was lazy to build it. I recommend all wanna be divers to take a scuba course but it is only for your piece of mind like how to clear a mask underwater or put on a weight belt the easy way, stuff like that. A pro diver can show you this in a few minutes for free.

I found the extra use of a BC to be a real benefit for carrying an extra knife, a lift bag in case you find a nice outboard or anchor, the utility rings come in handy for attaching clip on weights for horizontal control. The BC also holds your spare air tank. But the BC is not needed if you are just playing around and can be bought later at any time. The BC can also hold a hydration pack for taking a drink while down under as your throat gets dry. Forget just unscrewing a water bottle unless you like having the runs. :laughing7:

Anyone can PM me with questions.

Sandman
 

Sandman said:
Capt'n Crunch you did an excellent job on making that post. Took a lot of time and well worth reading.

I am an experienced diver and also a Hookah diver, though I aren't supposed to dive anymore I aren't in the box yet. My first system was from Kneene and it worked well. Till I gave it to a relative and then bought a J-sink all assembled cause I was lazy to build it. I recommend all wanna be divers to take a scuba course but it is only for your piece of mind like how to clear a mask underwater or put on a weight belt the easy way, stuff like that. A pro diver can show you this in a few minutes for free.

I found the extra use of a BC to be a real benefit for carrying an extra knife, a lift bag in case you find a nice outboard or anchor, the utility rings come in handy for attaching clip on weights for horizontal control. The BC also holds your spare air tank. But the BC is not needed if you are just playing around and can be bought later at any time. The BC can also hold a hydration pack for taking a drink while down under as your throat gets dry. Forget just unscrewing a water bottle unless you like having the runs. :laughing7:

Anyone can PM me with questions.

Sandman



Thank you Sandman for your compliments and you extra insight on things that that I did not cover. Just like you, I am also a PADI certified diver. Now that you have mentioned it Sandman, I am now inspired to do a part 2 continuation of this post to give the novice instructions on how to do certain must-know functions underwater. Like clearing your mask, putting on a weight belt, buddy breathing, and emergency ascent and how to control your last breath when rising to the surfeace after your air supply has been cut off. It's all very simple to learn. Thanks guys!
 

Well I'll be darned Cap'n Crunch you surprise me. Great post and information, job well done :icon_thumright:
 

I thought this was a very good article. I also been wanting to get a hooka system but as money is tight right now I may really look to see if I can find these items......Matt
 

Marchas45 said:
Well I'll be darned Cap'n Crunch you surprise me. Great post and information, job well done :icon_thumright:



Wow, thank you Charlie as well as everyone else for the huge compliments! By the way Charlie, thanks for being patient with me while selling me that Garrett Infinium and allowing me to make payments, I am just loving that machine like crazy, and I never would have been able to afford it if it werent for your kindness and patience! :notworthy: Oh, one other thing Charlie, what did you end up replacing that Garrett with?
 

Ok, for those of you who have been just chomping at the bit to own an affordable dive system for your underwater hunts.

You can learn a little about Hookah style diving here: http://www.keeneengineering.com/pamphlets/howhookah.html


CHOOSING THE RIGHT SYSTEM:

These dive systems do have thier limitations they are rated as a "low pressure" system.... a single man system will take a person to a depth of 30-40 feet deep MAX
while a 2 person system will take 2 divers to 30-40 feet and a single diver to 60 feet. There are systems out there what will perform deeper, but then we are talking about more exspensive high-pressure delivery systems.

Low pressure means just that, low pressure, but it produces a high volume amount of air. The deeper you go, the more air compresses, the less volume you will need, but it needs more force to get to your lungs, this is where a high pressure system is needed.

What I am listing below are SHALLOW low-pressure dive units.

Here is what you need......

Top 3 recommended Oilless belt-driven Air Pumps:

Thomas T-80 40-50 psi pump (single person) retail: $299.00
T80.jpg



Brown PC 875 (single person) 55-65 psi pump retail: Unknown
A great alternative to the T-80, these are said to last longer and produce 30% more air. These are oilless air pumps used in Dental Clinics to power air tools. You have to look hard for these, I havent seen many around. Hopefully you will have better luck than I have in search of these pumps.
BrownPC-875pump.jpg



Thomas 263 (2 person) 125 psi pump retail: $575.00
263.jpg


If you shop around on E-bay, Craigslist, and call several mining supply and gold dredge supply stores, you can find these pumps used and for alot less money. They pop up often and without warning, so if you can't find one available right away, be patient and keep searching, they will show up! I have seen the T-80 models on sale for $80 up to $200 depending on how much they are used. If you find one for dirt cheap that doesnt work (pay no more than $50), they are extremely easy to repair and the parts kit costs around $30


Next is the engine to drive the pump.


GreyHound 6.5hp weight, 40lbs retail: $149.00 (Harbor Frieght) $85.00 (Ebay)
Greyhound65.jpg

This engine has more power than what is needed to run the pump, but not too much difference in price compared to the smaller engine listed below.


GreyHound 2.5hp retail: $119.00 (Harbor Frieght) Advantage with this engine is lighter weight
Greyhound25.jpg



Next, here is something you can duplicate yourself really cheaply to float your system. All you really need is a truck inner tube and something to be used as a platform to mount the engine and pump.
TF2.jpg



Then, what you need is your delivery system.

You will need FOOD GRADE air hose, 250 psi rated, this can be obtained from any hose supplier in your area. I recently checked with a supplier in my area, and this hose is going for 50 cents a foot, if you do this, you can have a custom-length hose. The extra thing that you will need done is to have the hose couplings crimped on at a hydraulic hose shop, or you can use the press-in barbed fitting with hose clamps.... 1/4 inch male and female threaded couplings are needed.

The third choice is to buy the hose already set up and ready to go from Keene Engineering.
AH.jpg


20 ft. $35
30 ft. $50
100 ft. $155


How to set up your hose:

Run a 6 foot lead hose (male thread on one end, female thread on the other) Male end connects to the pump,
thread_fitting_hose_coupling_v1_jpg_200x200.jpg


at the other end, you attach a female coupling,
Hose_coupling_v0_jpg_200x200.jpg


From the female coupling, you thread on a female quick-connect coupling (one end is male threaded)
aircoup22.gif


At both ends of the air reserve tank, you will screw in the male quick-connects that look
like this:
airplug22.gif


(single person tank) retail $69
RT1.jpg


(2 person tank) retail: $225
RT4.jpg


(cheaper alternative version of air reserve tank, 1 or 2 person. Food grade Co2 tank from any keg supply company)
Retail: $95
10PoundCO2.jpg


Then you attach your main air line (whichever APPRORIATE length you choose) to the other end of the air reserve bottle in the same fashion as your previous connection.

Next, you attach a female threaded coupling to the hose that exactly matches the male threaded coupling that is on your 2nd Stage Adjustable Dive Regulator.
2ndstageregulator.jpg


Here is Keene's illustration of the entire system:
TypicalDive.jpg


Keene recommends using a harness for your regulator, I believe this is wrong and potentially dangerous, they are far to easy to get snagged onto things underwater, and they are a pain in the neck to put on and take off (I had used one for a year, I HATED IT). The safest way to attach the air line to you is to velcro-strap it to your upper arm.

Regulators can be found new and for good prices on Ebay and other sources online, but can also be had at real rock-bottom prices from scuba dive shops looking to sell off and replace thier older rentals. I buy mine this way, the shops are always happy to also throw in fresh new valves and springs before sending out the door, and they always work like new. You can easly have a $300 regulator for a price of $30-$50 bucks if you shop around.


If you want to really be sporting stylish and be comfortable, as well as have the ability to talk and sing to yourself while under water, go with a full face mask. All you do is cut the zip-tie that is holding on your regulator mouth piece, remove the mouth piece and plug it into the mouth of the mask and zip-tie it snug on the inside. Voila! SIMPLE, and you will absolutely love it and you will never experience jaw fatigue ever again.

Cressi Full Face Mask Retail: $75-$100

CressiMask.jpg




I hope this will be of use to a few of you out there! :thumbsup:

Thanks a million for this thread! I owe you one. I'm getting started on ordering my equipment online tonight. I guess I will start with the compressor. If I order one necessary item every paycheck, I should have everything by next spring including wetsuit, underwater metal detector, and even a small flat bottom boat to haul it all around in. Thanks again. I was starting to get discouraged by the $2000-$3500 price tags on turnkey hookah systems
 

Thanks for finding this and bumping it up! I've been looking around and thinking maybe....
 

MY GAS ONE - ROUND $750
 

ELECTRIC KEENE
 

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