Gold Ore

[southfork]

A little sample that was found with a metal detector. Crushed by hand then panned to wash away some of the dirt and clay? The photo is macro so real small particles, but the quartz shows and what looks like iron and free gold. I think we need a small smelter to retrieve the values trying to speed up the recovery what's your thoughts ?

 

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[southfork]

Raining here I have some old woodworking tools that I haven't used in 40 years time to cannibalize for parts. I wonder how long a Sawzall would last it has the right motion and variable speed. And an old band saw with adjustable pulleys or an old worthless harbor freight drill press with different sized pulleys. At least 3 old motors that still spin and plenty of steel parts to weld cut or grind. Just thought of another piece of junk wood shaper that never had enough power to work right but has a nice motor. Happy Mining

 

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[desertgolddigger]

When you said 2' x 4's, etc, I was like... No...
There's a lot more then just wood under that table in the video. That's a solid platform bolted to the floor. The decks on mine are plywood with fiberglass tops but everything else is either iron or steel and it operates basically the same as in the video other then mine has drop chutes for the gold as well, so it doesn't pile up along the edge of the table, where it can be mixed with the other heavy minerals.

Reed, It's all very well and fine to have metal bases, but I don't have metal, nor the tools to work with it. My tabletop will be on linear rails/bearings, so violent shaking shouldn't be happen. Anyway, this is southfork's thread, and I need to address my build on my own thread.

 

[Assembler]

A little sample that was found with a metal detector. Crushed by hand then panned to wash away some of the dirt and clay? The photo is macro so real small particles, but the quartz shows and what looks like iron and free gold. I think we need a small smelter to retrieve the values trying to speed up the recovery what's your thoughts ?

Two cents here.
Grind up finer and try blowing off more of the clay / silt first before running over your rib mat. Then melt the rest. I thinking a lot less flux will be needed if you can remove the clay and silt first.

 

[southfork]

Two cents here.
Grind up finer and try blowing off more of the clay / silt first before running over your rib mat. Then melt the rest. I thinking a lot less flux will be needed if you can remove the clay and silt first.

Way past that old post from Apr 22, 2022 and I don't like dust.

 

[southfork]

I disassembled an old yard sale band saw $20 bucks has a nice dual live axle 5/8" with bearings and cast mounting frame with a tilting table. The motor runs perfect but way too fast 3400 + RPMS no wonder the blade was always jumping off old bench model with home-built modifications. The axle assembly I will use easy to mount base is already factory drilled. Lunch time then I'll tear something else apart. The stand was homemade and heavy with every nut and bolt loose made plenty of noise.

 

[Assembler]

Way past that old post from Apr 22, 2022 and I don't like dust.

Well no one responded and gave it two cents. Most people don't care for dust either. Dust bowl comes to mind......lol.

 

[Assembler]

I disassembled an old yard sale band saw $20 bucks has a nice dual live axle 5/8" with bearings and cast mounting frame with a tilting table. The motor runs perfect but way too fast 3400 + RPMS no wonder the blade was always jumping off old bench model with home-built modifications. The axle assembly I will use easy to mount base is already factory drilled. Lunch time then I'll tear something else apart. The stand was homemade and heavy with every nut and bolt loose made plenty of noise.

Some jack shafts should help step the speed way down. Like the idea of some iron there to help reduce dancing around.

 

[southfork]

Motor number two 110 volt - 1725 RPM 1/2 HP has a 4-groove pulley 1" inch - 4" diameter more options and I have a 10"-inch drive wheel that might work. I need to make some brackets for the motor and jack shaft and play with the speed and motion. Happy Mining

 

[Assembler]

Motor number two 110 volt - 1725 RPM 1/2 HP has a 4-groove pulley 1" inch - 4" diameter more options and I have a 10"-inch drive wheel that might work. I need to make some brackets for the motor and jack shaft and play with the speed and motion. Happy Mining

You likely can get a bracket set off of another like motor that is bad or very cheap.
Some recycle yards will have some pillow blocks style bearings to play with by the set of that size.
Some times you can fine used mechanical speed moveable set up to mount a motor for variable speed pullies.
I like the idea of the 1725 RPM's motor to help not over heat depending on the table weight / size.

 

[Tesorodeoro]

With the constant shaking, I can't see how wood would work at all... You are throwing a lot of weight around & around.

I have seen a large trailer mounted shaker that was built from wood that dates back to the stamp mill days. I think it will work. But the second build will be guaranteed to work better.

 

[Tesorodeoro]

Motor number two 110 volt - 1725 RPM 1/2 HP has a 4-groove pulley 1" inch - 4" diameter more options and I have a 10"-inch drive wheel that might work. I need to make some brackets for the motor and jack shaft and play with the speed and motion. Happy Mining

Remember that you can use two axles to manipulate RPM and torque. Large pulley and small pulley on same axle - 2 belts. Check out this online calculator.
https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng

Only takes an out of balance or oblong spinning object to “shake”.

My personal suggestion - you have demonstrated here that the need for a commercial shaker table exists and will pay its self off fairly quickly (especially if purchased used). Best thing a person can do is invest in tools bought with sweat equity.

 

[Assembler]

CHICAGO ELECTRIC POWER TOOLS 3/4 HP Concrete Vibrator

$99.99

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-hp-concrete-vibrator-34923.html?_br_psugg_q=concrete+mixer

 

[southfork]

I mounted the motor and drive axle to a steel running board from a 1928 Model A Ford Truck. About 172 RPMS at the large pulley, I can move the belt up a notch or two on the small pully if needed for more speed. Next comes steel tubing or channel for mounting brackets to hang this under the rails so I can start mounting the table and figure the stroke and length of drive arm I have pilot holes drilled on the spokes near the edge of both 10-inch pulleys where the drive arms will mount. The table will be somewhat adjustable I'm working on that hardware still in the development stage lol. Happy Mining

 

[Assembler]

I mounted the motor and drive axle to a steel running board from a 1928 Model A Ford Truck. About 172 RPMS at the large pulley, I can move the belt up a notch or two on the small pully if needed for more speed. Next comes steel tubing or channel for mounting brackets to hang this under the rails so I can start mounting the table and figure the stroke and length of drive arm I have pilot holes drilled on the spokes near the edge of both 10-inch pulleys where the drive arms will mount. The table will be somewhat adjustable I'm working on that hardware still in the development stage lol. Happy Mining

Like the simple set up and the nice RPM's. Could the cast iron pulley that you drilled the hole crack or fail with the pounding?

O-well you can replace the large pulley with steel down the road if there is issues with the pounding action. Keeping the cost low.

 

[southfork]

Like the simple set up and the nice RPM's. Could the cast iron pulley that you drilled the hole crack or fail with the pounding?

O-well you can replace the large pulley with steel down the road if there is issues with the pounding action. Keeping the cost low.

No pounding just back and forth motion and a vibrating table. Time will tell and I can add springs if needed. I have a vibrating motor with a speed controller that I'm going to try also .

 

[desertgolddigger]

I mounted the motor and drive axle to a steel running board from a 1928 Model A Ford Truck. About 172 RPMS at the large pulley, I can move the belt up a notch or two on the small pully if needed for more speed. Next comes steel tubing or channel for mounting brackets to hang this under the rails so I can start mounting the table and figure the stroke and length of drive arm I have pilot holes drilled on the spokes near the edge of both 10-inch pulleys where the drive arms will mount. The table will be somewhat adjustable I'm working on that hardware still in the development stage lol. Happy Mining

Amazing. You Gents sure understand mechanical stuff. I'm lost when it comes to that subject. Can't wait to see your table in action.

 

[Assembler]

No pounding just back and forth motion and a vibrating table. Time will tell and I can add springs if needed. I have a vibrating motor with a speed controller that I'm going to try also .

Ok pounding may not be the word here however the loading in the two different directions is long for the word pounding. The size of the shaft the metal for the connecting rod should be enough to take the stress loading for the table weight. The cost is right so if there needs to be repairs you will make out.

I like the idea of the vibrating motor as a different motion that you can fine tune for a different force / movement. I posted the HF concreate vibrating unit on the thread with no explanation as I figured you have something like it or could incorporate it as you see fit for spreading out the fines.

 

[Assembler]

Amazing. You Gents sure understand mechanical stuff. I'm lost when it comes to that subject. Can't wait to see your table in action.

Some one that is good at math and engineering things would be a lot better to give specs.

Some will just play around until a reasonable set up is built.......lol

 

[Assembler]

No pounding just back and forth motion and a vibrating table. Time will tell and I can add springs if needed. I have a vibrating motor with a speed controller that I'm going to try also .

If you can add a spring at the either end of the connecting rod this should reduce a lot of the shock each time the direction is changed smoothing things out some. I'm thinking a rubber bumper at one end of the table travel will add a good 'bump action' on one end of the table travel to really help the heavies move up hill. There could also be some dipping of the table each time the direction changes.
Two cents here.

 

[southfork]

I tested my junk table wheels and track too noisy and drag pushing back and forth by hand. No problem I'm going to look at polyurethane / rubber fixed casters with bearings they come in all sizes and load capacities. I have some aluminum channel to mount on the steel track for the wheels ride on should make it smoother and less drag. Back to the drawing board Happy Mining.