yet another electrolysis question

[funkman]

I am trying out this method for the first time and have a couple of questions. I am using a power adapter that is output of 9vac and 800mah. I am trying to get the rust off of a buckle (horse rein buckle). Now I know you have to put the positive wire to the relic and the negative to a spoon. I did not know which one was which and I remember someone saying that the one that bubbles would be the one. Well no matter which one I hook to the relic, I get fizzing action. Not really bubbling, just fizzing. Could be because of low amperage I know, but why is it that both leads give me fizzing? Also could I not have enough baking soda and salt in mixture. I am using a tupperware container and only have maybe a cup or 2 of water in it. Sprinkled baking soda and some salt and let it cook for a half hour with each lead. WHen I took the relic out after each half hour, I thought some rust would be coming off, but nothing is really. Do I have to still sand or file it off or should it just scrape/fall off automatically? Maybe with the low voltage I am using I need to let it cook a long time. The power supply did not get hot at all when I touched it so maybe I can safely let it cook all day.

Let me know please.

Funkman

 

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[civilman1]

That's what I use Funkman...8v-1amp phone charger on my smaller item's.That's all I get is a "fizz" but it does take time so be patient...Look at my before and after thread,pretty good result's I think....Good Luck and HH!!

 

[funkman]

thanks civilman. Thos buttons of yours turned out great! So I should just let it sit there all day long then. Will the fizzing get bigger or just stay where the contact is made with the alligator clip on the item? Also how does the rust come off? Does it just fall off or do I have to scrape it?

Thanks

Funkman

 

[Don in SJ]

I think the milliamps are high for a buckle, but I might be wrong, my setup for the bigger iron was much less in milliamps..
It is possible the contacts to the anode and cathodes are not connected strong enough, or you need more baking soda in solution, don't think you can add too much, but definetly not enough.

Before you put the buckle in again, stick the alligator clips into the solution and one should bubble a lot more than the other one, again the one that bubbles, (negative) gets attached to the buckle....
Don

 

[funkman]

thanks Don.

I put both leads in the water and both fizzed, but one seemed to fizz more than the other (by a little bit). The rust is still on there though. SHould the rust dissolve off or do I have to scrape it off?

Funkman

 

[stevemc]

You should never use salt in your solution. Or baking soda. Both are very corrosive especially with electricity. See the post about power supplies and electrolyte.

 

[LukeTHr]

I am using an old cell phone charger as an electrolosis unit and to determine which side of the circuit was the negative I tested with a multimeter tester. Mine is an older needle type tester. when on the positive side the needle moved to the right across the scale, when on the negative it moved left off the scale. From there I just marked the wires accordingly.

 

[cosmic]

- to item to be cleaned + to stainless object

 

[Functional]

I am trying out this method for the first time and have a couple of questions. I am using a power adapter that is output of 9vac and 800mah.

AC output BAD. DC output GOOD.

I mentioned this in a post just the other day. There are several electronic devices out there that do use adapters, (power supplies), and chargers that have AC output, but they are useless for electrolysis. You need something that puts out, (output), in DC voltage. Preferably 12 to 18 volts DC, but 9 volts DC will work.

You may as well be using straight water for all the good an AC output adapter will do. At least then you could eventually heat enough water for a coffee. Any continued discussion about what to add to the water to make it more electrolytically conductive, really doesn't matter unless you can find yourself a DC power supply.

F.

 

[sandrailer]

Yes you need a DC power supply.The use of an ac power supply is the reason for both leads fizzing .

 

[Hill City Rebel]

You should never use salt in your solution. Or baking soda. Both are very corrosive especially with electricity. See the post about power supplies and electrolyte.

I agree wholeheartedly. But what is the perfect electrolyte?

 

[cosmic]

Thats the question.. When we add whatever to the water we are changing the resistance of the water.. So what would change the counductivity of the water without the corossive effects....Pure water and more mahs or closer placment of the - object and the +stainless ?
Ray

 

[Hill City Rebel]

Pure water will not conduct electricity. You have to add impurities (ions). The question is, which impurity? Thanks!

 

[MUD(S.W.A.T)]

I made mine based on this... Check it out!!

http://gometaldetecting.com/electrolysis_cleaning.htm

Keep @ it and HH!!

 

[Hill City Rebel]

I made mine based on this... Check it out!!

http://gometaldetecting.com/electrolysis_cleaning.htm

Keep @ it and HH!!

I have used a small power supply and cleaned coins this way, but I've concluded that using a good 6 or 12 volt battery is far safer. Breakdown of a lead or coil wire in one of these small transformers - or even a poorly designed power supply - can introduce high voltages into your cup of brew. Chances are slim, but it can happen. BTW, although I've never used lemon juice, but it should work just fine. It's the citric acid that ionizes, and citric acid is an organic acid - made up of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Byproducts should be fairly innocuous - hydrogen, oxygen, water, carbon dioxide, etc. - though the hydrogen will burn. I was sure impressed with the quarter in the demo at the site. But the recommendation by one fellow to use steel wool for a final cleaning should be ignored. Steel wool will scratch the coin and destroy the numismatic value. Thanks for recommending the gometaldetecting site. HCR.