Verification of 1916-D Mercury Head Dime

[Zavenoa]

So, I was fairly certain this was a 1916-P, and I added it to a Whitman Folder of Mercury Heads I was planning to sell as a 16-P, but when I saw the 18-D I had something made me look at the 16 again. Because I couldn't verify one way or the other under normal 30x magnification I decided I would try a high resolution (4800dpi) scan to see if that would help. After scanning it, it now seems much more likely it IS a 1916-D!!! Although I'm fairly convinced, I have been almost certain of things in the past (like my 1888/7 IHC that other members convinced me was just a corroded 1888).

I want to make sure my eyes aren't playing tricks on me and that I want this to be a 16-D so bad that I'm seeing things that aren't there.

These images are not touched up in any way, I simply scanned the images and did a little cropping to show the 16/16-D mintmark next to the 18-D as a sample. What makes me believe this is a 16-D with the mintmark worn almost completely off is the placement of the D that I believe is very faint. Someone please tell me if I am just seeing the D because I want to see it.

 

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[pong12211]

I don't know enough about coins yet to give you even an educated guess.. But there are alot of highly knowledgable people on this site that i'm sure will be able to give you an answer.. Hope this turns out to be what you want it to be good luck....

 

[dejapooh]

Wishful thinking, I think. If you ever have a chance to go to a major coin show, PCGS is often there and they will give you an opinion on wether or not a coin is likely to survive the authentication process and come out as you wish. It is free. I know they go to the ANA show, FUN in florida, The Long Beach show 3 times a year in California and so on. Other than that, you COULD send it in for authentication. You could sell it on ebay as 1916 D? with all of these pictures, your explanation here, and no refunds. you may get s couple of people willing to spend $100 or even $200 on a flyer. The price difference is big enough that the $32 risk of submission is worth it if you REALLY think it is the D. Personally, I am not convinced...

 

[enamel7]

I believe if you have to use that much magnification to think it may be a mintmark, then it probably isn't there. Sorry.

 

[Diver_Down]

It is not a 16-D. Your problem lies in the assumption that all mintmarks are in the same location for every year by comparing it to the 1918-D. The 16-D mintmark is tucked up close to the fasces and olive branch.

 

[Zavenoa]

Oh, damn. I'll have to look at other pictures of 16-Ds.

 

[Zavenoa]

You're right about the mintmark location, but apparently they seem to move position in the same year as well. Look at these examples I pulled off of the PCGS website (PcgsCoinFacts.com : Your Online Reference for U.S. Coins)



The second has the mintmark exactly where you described it, but the 1st and 3rd images have it lower, closer to the 18-D in my initial images, but not in the same place. It's probably not a 16-D, but it might be worth the $35 to send it in on the chance that it is. I'll have to think about it, maybe pull out my microscope and look at it further. I was fairly certain it was a 16-P until I did that high resolution scan, but that might be playing tricks on me.

 

[HavokSouls]

I believe you are just wanting to see it although that is just my opinion I see no sign of a D at all but then again I'm no expert..

 

[JohnT]

I know I'm coming to this thread WAY late... but I have a similar coin. After checking the mint marks of other 1916-Ds, I'm fairly convinced this is a dud. Regardless, I'm going to bring it to the next coin show so the grader can have a good laugh at my expense.



Flip between the first pic and the second pic, then take a look at the 3rd. See it?!?! Drives me nutz!

I want a 1916-D sooooooooooooo badly!

 

[jerseyben]

In my unprofessional opinion, the best I can tell from pics alone:

I do not believe either of the coins in question have D mintmarks.

 

[cudamark]

Same here. I think there is just some old surface damage that gives it that look after decades of wear.

 

[bigscores]

This is not a '16-D. The D on the '16's lasts quite a while, and is visible all the way down to FR2. So it is pretty obvious when you've got one... and you don't. Sorry!