Underwater Camera Help

Darren in NC

Darren in NC

Silver Member
Apr 1, 2004
2,820
1,655
Detector(s) used
Tesoro Sand Shark, Homebuilt pulse loop
Primary Interest:
Shipwrecks
Darren,

That little fish isn't going to work for what you want. You need some serious equipment.

http://www.jwfishers.com/frames.htm

dv1.gif


DV-1 Camera

Fishers most economical underwater camera system designed for boat deployment.

The DV-1 dropped video system provides a cost effective method for underwater search and inspection operations. The system is deployed over the side of the vessel and lowered to the bottom. Targets can be verified and recorded without incurring time consuming check out dives. The camera is capable of both downward and side viewing.

Topside the DV-1 connects to a video monitor or standard TV. The video can be recorded on any VCR to make a permanent record of that favorite dive site or an inspection job.

The DV-1 system includes a 0.5 lux black and white camera in a corrosion-proof PVC housing with built in leak detection system, two high intensity 100 watt underwater lights, and a 150 foot deployment cable. The underwater lights employ a unique water cooling system which allows the DV-1 to operate for many, many hours without the need for bulb replacement.

Options for the system include cable lengths up to 1,000', color or very low light B&W cameras, color or B&W monitors, PAL cameras for European use, additional lights, 12 vdc or 220 vac voltage inputs, 500' and 1,000' depth rated housings.
Key Features of the DV-1:
It's portability, rugged construction, and ease of operation.

The DV-1 is backed by Fishers exclusive, unconditional TWO YEAR warranty.


Options
250' Cable: $300.
500' Depth Capability & Cable: $2,175.
1000' Depth Capability & Cable: $4,175.

Camera and Monitor Options (TOV-1, DV-1, DHC-1)


Price: $3,295.
Click to expand...

Robert in SC
 

I dont have that camera, but have a Sea-View B/W towable and it also had a short cable, and I made it a total of 180' long. It works perfectly! I just cut the cable sheath (where you want the splice!)and went to the electronics supply store, and got the right cable(which was I think a 3 or 4 wire with shielding on each wire and then on all I think) and low temp solder and shrink wrap for little wires and shrink wrap for the outer sheathing, and liquid electrical tape, and some electrical tape. I used to be a marine electronics rigger/installer and it was a piece of cake. Solder good-be sure to slide the shrink tubes on first! and test before you close it all up. I was able to find exact cable-colors, shielding, size and even exact number at the electronics store. Works perfect. I spearfish a lot and its easier to lower the camera, than dive down and see whats there. Also I tied some light weight 60 lb test I think Spectra line above and below the splice to take stress out, before I final taped it up. Mine has infra-red LEDs and can see in the night too. They work with clear water best. Murky water is real hard to see in of course! I think the whole extension was $20 for everything.
 

I have the harber freight one. I use it to watch the chum tubes off the swim platform. The picture quality is ok but not great. Seahunter has the sea view one I beleve. His picture quality is alot better and it is color.
 

Darren, I've used the Sea View camera before and ended up taking it back. Short focal length, unimpressive video quality.
 

Hey Darren,

I have this same model camera. I've not taken a look at doing a longer length of cable yet. I would imagine that there is a certain margin of tolerance beyond the stock cable length. If you get this figured out let me know.

Pcolaboy
 

I think for what Darren is looking for, he is going to need to either build his own pressure housing or buck up and buy the big toys. The pressure housing is no problem to 300'. Darren we can work on this together and maybe bring in DinkyDick. He already has some cool toys like this.

I have a design in mind for just this application that I carried over from my ROV. Brad is right about the focal length on the cameras, they are designed for up close up, low vis pictures. Basically its a low light wide angle lens. The low light is good but the wide angle will not be as usefull in deeper waters where you may end up many feet away from your target.

The other is going to be lights. At that depth you will need some lighting. There is a small company that makes c-lite (Carrillo Underwater Systems) who has a very inexpensive light that you could mount on some brackets to the camera housing. They run about $80 each.

We could get Pete to make us up a nice housing on his little red lathe, buy some waterproof connectors, couple hundred feet of cable, a little electronics in the housing to regulate voltage, and for about $500-$550, you can have a camera with lights rated to 300'.

Just ask Dick, he will tell you it is very doable!

Robert in SC
 

So what camera head would you guys recommend?
 

Here's an ROV that was built by Florida Institute of Tech guys for a fraction of the cost of commercial equivalents and was touted as just as good. It's rated for around 330 fsw. Anyone ever try building it?...Anyone wanna try?

http://my.fit.edu/~swood/Hornetreport.PDF
 

Awesome, Goldfever. You got pics? You build it yourself? Buy it? Wanna sell it? ;)
 

Darren, you can do anything you want to. But, my experience in the Navy and in some recovery work lead me to believe that if you are working on something 300' deep, you need to get the proper equipment. Don't take a chance on wasting a season or expensive charter on a cheap camera. Get one designed for the depth you are expecting and with the depth of field that will make the pics at least readable.

I don't have one or even a recommendation of which one to get. Just some advice from an old diver.
 

Good advice, ahunter. Yet somewhere the balance of how much money you have and what you can live with comes into play. The depth rating is around 330 fsw, but I never said my project was. I think it would be fine for what I need it for. The pros said this one worked as well as a 14k ROV, and if I need more than that, then I guess I am up the creek...
 

Darren, I know we have several of these projects going in the group, but I've started back on mine also. :D I realized that one of my buddies here programs PIC boards, and told him all the things I wanted to do and he said "peice of cake". So, we're ordering the PIC chip and programming board today, I already have a good start on the frame...I ordered the high intensity LED's from the Hornet II site, lots of them! Pete's camera housing should be here in a week or so also, so I've just got some soldering and board design work to do and I'm ready. Same functionality as the Hornet II minus the digital compass, but i'm thinking about it. With 4 boats, I say we need 4 ROV's :D

Jason
 

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