Tips on equipment

[lokiie1984]

I will have some extra money coming in this month so i wanted to look into getting something that i could use around the house to help clean up cons and other material. I would like to find something for around 100 dollars (price that i would have to pay for a blue bowl kit if i were to buy one.) I thought about doing the blue bowl from my local store but figured i should check into other items before i settled on that one. There's just so many different things out there that i have no clue what i would actually be looking for.

I would like to have something that works like the blue bowl, where it takes the dirt and what not and leaves the gold behind. However it would be nice if it would work on more then just -30 and smaller material. The only other item that i came across that would do something similar was an underflow sluice system by these guys : Grumpy Prospector Home but those are a bit out of my reach.

So i was curious if anyone knows of anything else that works like either of those two? The only real requirements that i would need, is that it can be hooked to either a pump or a hose and work. And cost under 100 dollars.

I did look into a bazooka sluice, even with having to pan the material after running it, it would be nice to use but their smallest sluice was 80 bucks. Just seems like kind of a waste for that price since we hardly ever go out to the mountains. So I'm kind of leaning towards the blue bowl but again i don't know what else is out there.

Thanks

 

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[DizzyDigger]

From your description, it sounds as if you need a "Flexi-Table"
type of set-up.

Anything larger than #30 mesh is clearly visible and can be
panned out much quicker than using a blue bowl or miller
table. For that $100 you can easily make yourself a miller
table that can double as a concentrator with another top
laid over the surface.

For instance, I could lay a large section of v-matting right
over the green paint on my miller table, run the flow faster
and clean up a boatload of cons. Then you just need to
classify the cons from the v-mat, pan out the larger
material and run the smaller material on the miller table.

Do you have a pump, and a couple of tubs for setting
up a recirculating system?

 

[lokiie1984]

Right now all i have is a garden hose. However it has a good 80 pounds of pressure behind it. I looked into a miller table but i wasn't quite sure how they work exactly. The one video i saw didn't have a mat or anything but i do believe it was painted green. I think it was supposed to be working like a slurry or quicksand type system where the gold and heavies worked its way forward with the water and vibrations from some motor the guy installed on it. It was pretty loud and noisy. Through half the video i couldn't understand what the guy was saying as he tried to talk about it because the noise drowned out his voice.

What i would like to be able to do is just toss everything in and have the sluice/table/bowl or what ever do a good chunk of the work for me. Which is why the bazooka caught my eye. Panning is all good and fun of course but it's pretty rough on my hand and wrist.

I will look up the flexi-table you mentioned.

Also i do have a sluice box i can use on the larger material. It's just home made and like most home made items, it doesn't work as well as it could. I don't really have enough gold cons right now to really test it though. I was kind of hoping for something that isn't home made also though. Just because around here nothing homemade works as it should. Which is why i thought about the blue bowl. I already made a mock up of one, and it works well enough to see how the system works but its riddled with annoying issues, like leaking. Or water pressure annoyances. Goes good and then boom our pressure take kicks on and blasts out all the gold that was in the bowl. The slowness of the system does kind of annoy me too. Its not so bad that i wouldn't buy it though. Can easily load it up and then go sit on the computer for a bit or something.

So it has its perks. I was just curious if maybe there was something else out there that could work better.

 

[DizzyDigger]

Right now all i have is a garden hose. However it has a good 80 pounds of pressure behind it. I looked into a miller table but i wasn't quite sure how they work exactly. The one video i saw didn't have a mat or anything but i do believe it was painted green. I think it was supposed to be working like a slurry or quicksand type system where the gold and heavies worked its way forward with the water and vibrations from some motor the guy installed on it. It was pretty loud and noisy. Through half the video i couldn't understand what the guy was saying as he tried to talk about it because the noise drowned out his voice.

What i would like to be able to do is just toss everything in and have the sluice/table/bowl or what ever do a good chunk of the work for me. Which is why the bazooka caught my eye. Panning is all good and fun of course but it's pretty rough on my hand and wrist.

I will look up the flexi-table you mentioned.

Sorry, I should have mentioned that the "flexi table" is a creature
of my own invention. Nothing special really, just a piece of v-matting
laid right on top of the miller table surface.

Here's the thread where I made my table:

http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/gold-prospecting/368781-building-miller-table.html

And if you do a search under "miller table" you'll get plenty of
threads to view. AzViper built a really nice table, and I believe
there's a link to how he made it at the bottom of his posts.

Do you have any pictures of the type of material you plan to run?
How large are the pebbles, etc? Are you classifying it at all?

 

[lokiie1984]

At the moment i don't have any pictures. I tend to do a lot of pay dirts from different websites since getting to the mountains is pretty much out of the question most of the time. I Also do classify the best i can at the moment. That's normally 4/8/20 at the moment and then i have some others coming. Generally i save all my dirt in buckets so i can go over it again as many times as i feel like.

Another item i was curious about, its called a Quicksand Concentration. It sounds like it works in the same way that the bazooka (fluid bed, slurry system where the gold falls to the bottom and the dirt washes out as more is added to take its place) does and i think i saw it for fairly cheap, 30ish dollars. I'm sure it would still need a ton of classifying like everything else but it does seem like it could work.

 

[DizzyDigger]

The "Quicksand Concentrator" looks like an interesting
unit, but I've no idea of how well it works. Listed cost
was $80.

Maybe someone has one and will chime in.

 

[lokiie1984]

Here is the one i saw for 39 + 7.82 shipping. It has a bit of a "cheap knock off" look to it. So who knows how well it works, however the seller has a fairly decent rating so if it sucked i would think someone would have mentioned it. But then the question becomes, do i really wanna pay 50 bucks for something someone might have made in their garage. http://www.ebay.com/itm/141144510973

http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/gold-prospecting/398127-bazooka-concentrator.html here is a post talking about this specific one. Looks like it doesn't work very well. However, in my searching for more info on the real deal, i did come across quite a few videos and forum posts where people were pretty impressed with the idea. The 80 dollar item seems to work pretty well, even when hooked up to a normal garden hose. One video i saw said they ran through about 5 gallons of size 8 sand in about 20 minutes or something.

It may end up being a better choice for me then. Little cheaper then the blue bowl and its advertised as being able to handle size 8 material really well. I will keep digging into it and see what i find.

 

[Jimmydolittle]

Here is the one i saw for 39 + 7.82 shipping. It has a bit of a "cheap knock off" look to it. So who knows how well it works, however the seller has a fairly decent rating so if it sucked i would think someone would have mentioned it. But then the question becomes, do i really wanna pay 50 bucks for something someone might have made in their garage. Quicksand Gold Classifier Fine Gold Recovery Panning Paydirt Clean Up Sluice | eBay

I bought one of these when the guy was selling them for $19.00 + shipping. After classifying to -20, (Indiana gold is all basically -20) ran my stuff through it 4 times, and still had color left in the cons. It went out the following Monday with my trash, except for the little valve thingy which I kept for who knows what. In my opinion, save your money on that piece of crap. Thing I use most is a 10.5" Pioneer pan, and snuffer bottle, repeatedly like in Gold Hog's video.

 

[Hoser John]

Go with the best for almost 30 years-Blue Bowl,just throw away the instructions as NOT the way it was intended to run. Was one of the original dealers way back in mid 80s(sold many 100s) and used any/every thang made and still my bowl(original ) does a fine job on micron -25 mesh-300 and just works fine by me-John

 

[AzViper]

Here is a reasonable price fine gold recovery system on ebay. I have built my own fine gold system and I also own the blue bowl system I built. Look at my links in my signature below.


EBAY FINE GOLD RECOVERY <<<------- LINK

I own both the Blue Bowl and and a Rubber Mat Miller Table. I find that the Miller Table wins hands down on it simplicity of use.

 

[lokiie1984]

Go with the best for almost 30 years-Blue Bowl,just throw away the instructions as NOT the way it was intended to run. Was one of the original dealers way back in mid 80s(sold many 100s) and used any/every thang made and still my bowl(original ) does a fine job on micron -25 mesh-300 and just works fine by me-John

Just curious, but what did the blue bowl cost back in the 80s?

I will look into making a miler table, it seems like right now it would be a toss up between the blue bowl and a miler table. The only thing that i don't like about the miler table is that you need a mat for it to work, however it might be my best bet anyway.

I'll take a look through your link Azviper and see what i can make vs buy. It looks like they are pretty simple, riffleless sluice box at the correct angle and water flow.

 

[AzViper]

Just curious, but what did the blue bowl cost back in the 80s?

I will look into making a miler table, it seems like right now it would be a toss up between the blue bowl and a miler table. The only thing that i don't like about the miler table is that you need a mat for it to work, however it might be my best bet anyway.

I'll take a look through your link Azviper and see what i can make vs buy. It looks like they are pretty simple, riffleless sluice box at the correct angle and water flow.

The matting comes from Walmart (like $10.00) that I and others are using, same stuff that Black Magic is using on their equipment. The Bowl Bowl works but its a learning curve to perfect and slower to recover the gold.

 

[lokiie1984]

The issue that we have with making our stuff is it never comes out the way it should. Which is why i wanted to buy something, wonder if i could commission someone to build me a miller table and then have em ship it lol. Preferably without it costing me a huge amount of money.

 

[DizzyDigger]

The issue that we have with making our stuff is it never comes out the
way it should. Which is why i wanted to buy something, wonder if i could commission someone to build
me a miller table and then have em ship it lol. Preferably without it costing me a huge amount of money.

Lokiie, I don't sell stuff, but I'd be happy to build you one if you can
cover the materials and shipping. It'll get me off my expanding arse and
give me a project to work on when I'm up at night, so shoot me a PM
if you're interested.

Some really like the black matting, and I've built 2 tables now with it.
On my own table I have several coats of green chalkboard paint, and
it performs very well, and [for me] I can see the -100 gold a bit better.

In your case, you're running larger material which is well suited for the black
matting.

 

[lokiie1984]

Lokiie, I don't sell stuff, but I'd be happy to build you one if you can
cover the materials and shipping. It'll get me off my expanding arse and
give me a project to work on when I'm up at night, so shoot me a PM
if you're interested.

Some really like the black matting, and I've built 2 tables now with it.
On my own table I have several coats of green chalkboard paint, and
it performs very well, and [for me] I can see the -100 gold a bit better.

In your case, you're running larger material which is well suited for the black
matting.

Thanks for the offer. PM sent, looking forward to picking your brain and skills if we can figure something out.

 

[lokiie1984]

I was wondering. If you used the black mat from walmart on the miller table, and assuming i made it from wood, would i need to sand the wood to be super smooth and then paint it? Or could i just glue the mat down?

I assume we would still have to seal the wood and what not so it doesn't get water logged. But if i could get away with out sanding the wood so much (referencing DizzyDiggers post on making one, where he sanded the wood, paint and everything in between.) It might be more doable here rather then having him make one (unless he really wants to and then it would be fine.) We just don't have a sander here that i could use.

Is this the mat you guys were referring to? http://www.amazon.com/Duck-280211-N...-1&keywords=duck+brand+easy+liner+ultra+fresh

If it is, amazon has it cheaper then my local walmart and comes as a prime item so i would get free 2 day shipping.

 

[DizzyDigger]

Lokiie, hadn't got around to writing a reply to your PM, but this is
exactly what I was going to suggest. A basic table with the matting
is very easy to make, and having to sand depends on the base material
you're covering with the matting.

I've had great success building them using the pre-made melamine shelves
you can buy at any store like Lowes or Home Depot. I know that Lowes
will cut it to size for you, but they might charge you $1 for making the
cut...or, if you have a saw at home you can make the end cut yourself.

Shop Real Organized 73-in x 12-in White Shelf Board at Lowes.com

I would cut it into 2, 30" pieces and save the 12" for another project.

You will also need:

1 ea. 6' 1x3 (straight)
1 ea. 2' 1x4
1 can 3M Super 77 (or Super 90) adhesive
Approx 25 2" quality screws (stainless if they're not too expensive)
1 can Shellac or Spar Urethane sealer
1 small tube silicone sealer
1 roll of the shelf liner you gave a link to

Once the shelf has been cut to length, you'll need:

A drill motor and 1/8" bit, plus a Phillips screw tip for driving screws.
A couple sheets of 150 grit sandpaper to clean up any runs or drips
in the sealer.

That's all you need to make a good quality table, minus the
water feed, valve, pump, etc.

You'll want to seal the wood well, so start off with several coats
of sealer on all sides and edges of the melamine shelf. If you spray
several thin coats on there shouldn't be drips or runs.

Once the sealer has cured for a day, you're ready to attach the
shelf liner material to the board. This is best done in a well
ventilated area, and you want to make sure to get it right
the first time, as those adhesives don't allow much working time.

What I do is lay the material out face down on a work table
(not the kitchen table!), and spray it first, and then
the panel. Wait a few seconds and, then lay the material over
the panel, making sure the material is taught, and no bubbles
or wrinkled areas. Then, lay the panel down with the top surface
on the bottom, and place a few heavy objects on top to allow
them to seal up well.

Then you can cut the 1x3 into 30" lengths for the sides. If they're
short, at all, you want to make sure you have a flush edge with feed
end of the panel. Drill all of the screw holes, and before installing
the side board, lay a bead of silicone along the entire edge of the
shelf panel. This will insure there's no leaks in the sides.

Next, cut the 1x4 and mount it on the "feed" end of the panel. Again,
lay a bead of silicone on all edges before installing. If you didn't make
the side pieces flush with the feed end it will be difficult to get it to seal.

That should be enough to get ya started, and next we'll work on a
cost effecting valve, pump and spray bar.

 

[AzViper]

Lokiie, hadn't got around to writing a reply to your PM, but this is
exactly what I was going to suggest. A basic table with the matting
is very easy to make, and having to sand depends on the base material
you're covering with the matting.

I've had great success building them using the pre-made melamine shelves
you can buy at any store like Lowes or Home Depot. I know that Lowes
will cut it to size for you, but they might charge you $1 for making the
cut...or, if you have a saw at home you can make the end cut yourself.

Shop Real Organized 73-in x 12-in White Shelf Board at Lowes.com

I would cut it into 2, 30" pieces and save the 12" for another project.

You will also need:

1 ea. 6' 1x3 (straight)
1 ea. 2' 1x4
1 can 3M Super 77 (or Super 90) adhesive
Approx 25 2" quality screws (stainless if they're not too expensive)
1 can Shellac or Spar Urethane sealer
1 small tube silicone sealer
1 roll of the shelf liner you gave a link to

Once the shelf has been cut to length, you'll need:

A drill motor and 1/8" bit, plus a Phillips screw tip for driving screws.
A couple sheets of 150 grit sandpaper to clean up any runs or drips
in the sealer.

That's all you need to make a good quality table, minus the
water feed, valve, pump, etc.

You'll want to seal the wood well, so start off with several coats
of sealer on all sides and edges of the melamine shelf. If you spray
several thin coats on there shouldn't be drips or runs.

Once the sealer has cured for a day, you're ready to attach the
shelf liner material to the board. This is best done in a well
ventilated area, and you want to make sure to get it right
the first time, as those adhesives don't allow much working time.

What I do is lay the material out face down on a work table
(not the kitchen table!), and spray it first, and then
the panel. Wait a few seconds and, then lay the material over
the panel, making sure the material is taught, and no bubbles
or wrinkled areas. Then, lay the panel down with the top surface
on the bottom, and place a few heavy objects on top to allow
them to seal up well.

Then you can cut the 1x3 into 30" lengths for the sides. If they're
short, at all, you want to make sure you have a flush edge with feed
end of the panel. Drill all of the screw holes, and before installing
the side board, lay a bead of silicone along the entire edge of the
shelf panel. This will insure there's no leaks in the sides.

Next, cut the 1x4 and mount it on the "feed" end of the panel. Again,
lay a bead of silicone on all edges before installing. If you didn't make
the side pieces flush with the feed end it will be difficult to get it to seal.

That should be enough to get ya started, and next we'll work on a
cost effecting valve, pump and spray bar.

Mike the only thing I can add to this process is to cut the mat to fit, lay the mat into the box as its going to be used. Next fold the mat in half but do not crease the mat where its folded. Spray the mat and then spray the surface. Wait a until the 77 becomes tacky then work the mat into place starting at the crease and working to the end. Repeat this process for the other end. Doing it this way you can not screw up in not getting the mat flat and square to the edges. Because your spraying the mat in place the the box needs to be taped off (Blue Masking Tape) on the inside walls and the top edge off the so that 77 is not sprayed onto these surfaces.

This is the method I use to lay foam and playing surfaces on poker tables that I build and the method I use to lay my rubber mat into my box. Works like a charm without the hassles of getting everything lined up and having the two surfaces come in contact with each other without the mat aligned up.

 

[DizzyDigger]

Now I understand how ya do that process.

I typically cut the mat to be 1" long on all edges, then
once the adhesive's dried well I use a razor knife
to trim the edges, and then add the side pieces.

Next one I'll give your method a try..

 

[lokiie1984]

Thanks for the info Dizzy, I'm going to put together a price list and see what everything would cost me. If you don't mind, do you have any pictures of the tables you made with the black mat?

I'm also curious how heavy they were. I mean could you haul em around easily or are they more of a set up and leave it type of deal?