The Peroxide Method Works!

KirkTN said:
could you please explain the peroxide method. The results you show are amazing. Awesome finds.



Though I am not the author of this method, I did it the other day from what I read. Here it is: Put a small amount of peroxide in a glass container, enough to cover your coin plus perhaps 1" more. Put it in the microwave (without the coin or metal !) for about 1 minute. Then drop the coin in the heated peroxide. It bubbled like crazy for a long time. I left my coins in overnight. Next day I took the coins out. Then I took a Q tip and gently rubbed the loosened grime off. And each time, the q tip would get dirtier. Before long, I had a clean coin with none of the fake look that vinegar and salt would leave. The method is awesome. Bryan
 

Here is the original post by Don in SJ. , "CLEANING LARGE CENTS". The method works for all copper coins. I have tried it on lower conductivity brass "flat" buttons and have not been happy with the results.


Here is Don's orignal post. http://forum.treasurenet.com/index.php/topic,39135.0.html
 

How long does the peroxide usually take? I've had a wheat cent (edit - I just looked closer and I believe it's my VERY FIRST INDIAN HEAD, YAH HOOOO) in for over 20 hours and haven't really seen any improvement. I can somewhat see the reverse, but the obverse is totally green.
Now I have to get it clean, I gotta see the injun.
 

Peroxide does not remove green patina from copper coins! It removes DIRT. :)

Don
 

Don, is there a way to get the patina off? When the coin is wet I can make out some features, otherwise the patina gets in the way.
 

Don't forget you can use it to remove rust stains from porcelin and enamel from collectable china cups enamel pins etc.

You can buy 70% at a beauty supply. Apply it with a Q-tip until the rust stain is gone. Be careful not to spill it on you, your clothes, the carpet, dog/cat etc! :D

70% Hydrogen Peroxide or 70% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol?
 

I know this is an old thread , not trying to make anyone look bad but.

Aren't "Fatty" IH's Made of Cooper-Nickel ? Just like Nickles?

Just saying I recently dug a 'my first' 1864 Cooper-nickel IH Cent & a V Nickel also my first.
Read where it said not for use on Nickels, it worked good on the IH's that were not already Pitted...Heck worked good on the pitted ones as well,= Clean Pit's. lol

The Nickel is 1904 & has Details like it was lost only after a couple years but does have some pitting.
The CN IH Has more wear & is pitted in areas as well.

I may try it first on the V-Nickel don't know ??? Could not make it much worse & as for Value the IH is worth only a few $ in it's dug Condition , but they are valuable to me as both are my first coins of those types.
oh well ,time will tell.
Davers
 

I know this is an old thread , not trying to make anyone look bad but.

Aren't "Fatty" IH's Made of Cooper-Nickel ? Just like Nickles?

Just saying I recently dug a 'my first' 1864 Cooper-nickel IH Cent & a V Nickel also my first.
Read where it said not for use on Nickels, it worked good on the IH's that were not already Pitted...Heck worked good on the pitted ones as well,= Clean Pit's. lol

The Nickel is 1904 & has Details like it was lost only after a couple years but does have some pitting.
The CN IH Has more wear & is pitted in areas as well.

I may try it first on the V-Nickel don't know ??? Could not make it much worse & as for Value the IH is worth only a few $ in it's dug Condition , but they are valuable to me as both are my first coins of those types.
oh well ,time will tell.
Davers

Actually I misspoke about the OP coin being a "fatty" it's actually a bronze 1864 Indian. I use a different method for Nickels, which I posted on Youtube ("how to clean dug nickels") just search for that and BuckleboyKY.

Cheers,

Buck
 

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