Stirling silver question

missedshed

Jr. Member
Sep 17, 2012
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pennsylvania
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Garrett
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All Treasure Hunting
The other day I was looking at stuff at an antique shop. I found some coins and other stuff that were silver/stirling silver. However, when it comes to stirling silver I'm not too familiar about it as to not pay more than what it's worth. I found a nice cake server marked stirling silver, I believe it was International silver Co, it had some weight to it and was marked 8.00. Would this be a good buy... I'm not sure only bc I don't understand if stirling silver /92.5 is something that will be/can be plated. Or if it's marked 92.5 stirling it's not plated. Can someone help me understand good purchases with stirling silver?
 

Chances are good if you found it in an antique shop, they know what they have and that it would not be underpriced. I would do a lot more research before buying "sterling" items without knowing what you are buying.
 

This place is more of a farmers market type place/ consignment shop.. Only one person working and you pay at the door as the stuff is marked. People rent and leave their stuff there. Alot of this stuff isnt all antiques. With the changing prices of silver and gold they have t kept up with remarking stuff. I got coins last week under silver spot but they are actually worth more to a collector in their condition anyway. Made out there. I just don't understand how to tell if it's plated sterling silver.
 

Sterling items are clearly marked as such. Make sure it says "sterling" with possibly a makers mark appearing near the word.

If it says "Sterling Triple" or anything similar, it is plated. If it says A1 or A#, it is plated. Avoid anything that is marked "silver", as this can be confusing and often it is just plated.
 

Thanks, I was in there today but further inspection I noticed it was plated.
 

My best suggestion would be to go to 925-1000.com and begin reading. Everything a begining collector needs.
 

One of the fastest ways to tell if it plated is get a strong magnet and if it sticks to the magnet it is plated........Good luck,...Scott
 

I agree with jerseyben, neither brass nor copper will be affected by a magnet, and they are the two most commonly plated metals.
 

Sterling.

just had to type that out correctly.

Sterling.
 

Keep in mind there are fakes as well, I just got 2 peices of jewlery marked 925, neither are real. I also have 6 different silver dollars(all fakes), 5 I got knowing they were and I use they as examples, I showed othes and they were going home to check the ones they have. Now if I go to a flea market I take a magnet.
 

I sold my two sterling candlestick holders, dealer says "it's a thin silver foil, not even a half-oz there." He gave me $10 for the pair, which is what I paid for them. Now I wish I'd kept them. There's not a lot of value in sterling, IMO.
 

Actually, with candlesticks, you should strip the "foil" off before you scrap them. Usually, depending upon the height, there is about 1/2 oz. of silver in each (about $14-$15 each). Every scrapper I have dealt with will fudge on weight if you give them the opportunity.Always strip weighted items, cut the handles off knives and remove large stones, before bringing them in. Then there is no question of the real weight of the item.
 

I sold my two sterling candlestick holders, dealer says "it's a thin silver foil, not even a half-oz there." He gave me $10 for the pair, which is what I paid for them. Now I wish I'd kept them. There's not a lot of value in sterling, IMO.
Bad move. "Dealer", bad word IMO. Out for themselves, of course he low balled you, why wouldn't he? Don't deal with that dude anymore. If selling for scrap... always strip it down. There is plenty of money in sterling, if you do it right. The very first step (and most important) is to know the value of it before you attempt to sell any of it.
 

Diggummup,

Good post, but I would like to ammend it a bit. The very first step (and most important) is to know the value of it before you BUY it. One should know the approximate weight of the item before you shell out the cash for it. It's not hard to do. My suggestion is to get a troy ounce of anything (I find a one ounce chain is the best), hold it in your hand and play with it while you watch a movie or read a book. Your body will then learn to be able to judge weight for you. Learn the net weight of certain items, candlesticks for instance, are roughly 1/2 oz. for standard height (4") sticks. Knife handles are generally also a little less than 1/2 oz., but are no good to you, at many places, unless you have accompanying silverware with the same pattern that are marked. Womens rings average a little less than 3 grams, while mens rings average 5 grams+. Learn your foreign marks, I've picked up some of my nicest deals because no one had the idea they were silver. Also, don't be afraid to make mistakes, because every mistake you make is a valuable lesson you can profit from.
 

Diggummup,

Good post, but I would like to ammend it a bit. The very first step (and most important) is to know the value of it before you BUY it. One should know the approximate weight of the item before you shell out the cash for it. It's not hard to do. My suggestion is to get a troy ounce of anything (I find a one ounce chain is the best), hold it in your hand and play with it while you watch a movie or read a book. Your body will then learn to be able to judge weight for you. Learn the net weight of certain items, candlesticks for instance, are roughly 1/2 oz. for standard height (4") sticks. Knife handles are generally also a little less than 1/2 oz., but are no good to you, at many places, unless you have accompanying silverware with the same pattern that are marked. Womens rings average a little less than 3 grams, while mens rings average 5 grams+. Learn your foreign marks, I've picked up some of my nicest deals because no one had the idea they were silver. Also, don't be afraid to make mistakes, because every mistake you make is a valuable lesson you can profit from.
LOL, How right you are... I guess the most obvious should be mentioned. :-[:-[ Don't I feel like a dummy. :laughing7:
 

Hello,

Learning sterling marks can take years to master... I've been at this a long time and I hardly know a small percent of the facts... I'll tell you some of what I do know to give you a little kick start... I do know anything from International silver Co should be inspected carefully. They are a know plating company, I don't think they have any pieces that are not plated. They may have some but not so sure... A sterling item will generally just be marked "Sterling" and nothing else. Unless it has a makers mark and date letter. That will follow after the silver mark. IE .925 or Sterling. Anything with a Passant lion hallmark is going to be British Sterling... However its also copied by Gorham silver co. to look like British sterling. No worries though cause Gorham is a well known Sterling maker... Its good to know the basic anagrams for plated silver. Like N.P.E.S ( Nickle Plated Electro Silver) and E.P (Electro Plate) or N.S (Nickel Silver) Nickel Silver is not silver at all.. Anyway as I said tons to learn 10's of thousands of marks if not more... Just learn as you go, and you WILL likely buy tons of fake or plated items along the way. If its priced for $8.00 and weighs over 2 ounces then it's likely to good to be true and will be plated or should be inspected closely... Most dealers know what they have and won't sell at a loss that big. Just keep a sharp eye and read every mark, if you don't understand it don't buy it... Look for chips and flakes, look for marks and learn as many as you can. Takes practice so best of luck.

keep @ it and HH !!
 

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