So... Please tell me Why does a metal detector cost $2499 again?

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I drive a Sonoma pu (s10), it goes places a full size truck can't get into. Its how you use the tools treasure.

Point is it isn't anyone's business how you, me or someone else wants to spend the money they earned, whether it is cars, trucks, boats, clothes, homes or even detectors, if they think it is worth the cost that is all that really matters.

Posted From My $50 Tablet....
 

Hay, I think it's about buying what you need to do a certain type of detecting and in many cases this means buying more than one detector.

I am basically a cache hunter and that right there means I need more than one type of detector. Technology improves, but sometimes it's just bells and whistles that you really don't need. I use a surfmaster PI for some cache hunting that I suspect will be on the small side. I also use this detector for beach hunting. It goes deep and is a fast scanning detector. Now for large caches I use an old Hays 2 Box for it's depth qualities. It also avoids junk small targets. Another advantage is it scans to the side also, so it can be used to scan walls and stone fences etc. I prefer the old 2 Box detectors. I really can't see an improvement in this design so why pay big bucks for a so called state of the art newer model, when you can get the same results with an older used one for about $250?. All my detectors are 15+ years old, but they meet my needs. There is no such thing as an upgrade when your present equipment meets your needs. But then there is the I need more or newer mentality that sellers depend on. Just think about it. Do you want that new model for show or go? Frank five star.png
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Just get a F75 and be done with it.
 

Point is it isn't anyone's business how you, me or someone else wants to spend the money they earned, whether it is cars, trucks, boats, clothes, homes or even detectors, if they think it is worth the cost that is all that really matters.

Posted From My $50 Tablet....
Yeah, I always say there isn't a right or a wrong...do whats right for YOU...many people think the way they do something is the right way and only way.
 

lookindown... While I have not yet chimed in on this thread I do have a comment now concerning this comment of yours. And if I'm to far "out there" I apologize. While I totally agree with you 99.9% of the time I have to share/ask this.

I used to shoot professional archery nationwide in the late 80's to early 90's. Now maybe this is not a good comparison but here goes. A perfect FITA score (60 shots) was 600 w/6 inside outs (60 Bulls eyes, zero misses and the last 6 arrows shot in the bulls eye NOT touching the scoring ring as "inside outs" (IO's)). Inside / outs were used to break any ties. My best recorded score was 600 w/5 IO's. Now I did this with the at the time the biggest diameter arrow shafts available (2512's xx75's). Now shooting this larger diameter shaft did make the target "larger" it really was a bad choice coming down to the wire for all us pro's. These large arrows were hell to shoot out of light weight target bows.

Many of us tried to "copy" the other to gain that one more IO to win. We all HAD THE SAME SKILL LEVEL 99.% of the time. We all shot perfect scores day in and day out. And we ALL HAD great equipment.

So here's my point finally lookindown.... I honestly used to use a compound bow with crooked limbs, bad axles, bad cams, entry level arrow rest and cheap arrows and shoot perfect NFAA rounds every time to make my point to students about equipment. I did this for years to make my point and it honestly wasn't good for business. It wasn't just about your equipment so much... but do you know how to use it?

So you remind us... "remember they have the EXACT same skill level." So here's the final conclusion from my humble opinion.... nothing, absolutely nothing beats EXPERIENCE with any equipment. Be it a race car, reel, bow or an upscale MD. Skill level with never be able to be graded unless all have the same equipment.
Sometimes equipment doesn't determine the outcome but many times it does...you don't always get what you pay for but the majority of time you do...oh, and I would never spend $2500 on a detector...I don't usually buy the cheapest product or the most expensive...I buy somewhere in between because I feel that's my best value for my money...a decent product at a decent price usually leaves me happy.
 

Sometimes equipment doesn't determine the outcome but many times it does...you don't always get what you pay for but the majority of time you do...oh, and I would never spend $2500 on a detector...I don't usually buy the cheapest product or the most expensive...I buy somewhere in between because I feel that's my best value for my money...a decent product at a decent price usually leaves me happy.

Hey Buddy... I know EXACTLY what you were saying and/or meant with your post. I truly do and I mean this.

I used to stand at the shooting line in the archery shop practicing with my Pro Vantage Medalist Hoyt target bow and folks would watch me shoot. I couldn't even shoot 2 arrows at the same target without risking destroying an expensive arrow. Customers would say "Damn... I want exactly what you got". And boy did I sell a lot of them and the exact same expensive arrows. I'd always tell them it wasn't just the bow and the equipment that allowed me to do that (to honest). But buy they did....! These customers were the "experienced" ones who wanted to "buy" some bull eyes.

Then I'd have the customer who would ask "Can you teach me to do that"? And these folks were the ones that impressed me the most. We'd get personal and find what they had to spend. Some had $200.00 and others $5-$600 hundred (at the time). I could take a person who had NEVER shot before (ever) and set him/her up with a cheap $200.00 set-up and they would be outshooting their friend with 30 yrs. "experience" within 1-2 days. Their friend(s) just couldn't figure it out because they shot high dollar equipment. And when their "experienced" friends asked for the same help from me they just couldn't conform because of ingrained bad habits and adjust.

And then.... We'd have the customer who had the "state-of-the-art set-up" poking fun at their counter-parts/friends. Then I'd bring out my totally beaten up Martin Cougar w/worn axles, cams, and twisted limbs. Along with the cheap rest and arrows and pin sights. They'd have a scope, expensive arrows, high dollars release aid and be PISSED OFF quickly when we shot heads up.

So, again... I guess the point is expensive equipment DOES HAVE ITS PLACE... NO DOUBT/DOES. But at this point we're splitting hairs and at times it makes all the difference in the world. Did me when I shot the world's best equipment. I most certainly couldn't shoot against Terry Ragsdale, Frank Pearson, Dee Wilde and many others with bad equipment. But, the difference between the best equipment could/can NEVER be realized without a LOT OF EXPERIENCE and/or without a lot of expert advice and help.

Now the new guy who buys the world's best MD (whatever that is) and finds the mother lode of hordes cannot credit the machine solely. I know... it is debatable. Equipment is over-rated in my mind. JUST DIG IT ALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

I think the goal is to find the detector that presents the information in a way that gets the best results for you that fits in your budget. That is the true definition of value. I love my F5, but I also know that I will own a Etrac someday. It just makes sense for me and the type of hunting I do. There are so many aspects of this hobby that are fun. The thrill of hunting a new site, being outdoors, occasionally hunting with a fellow detectorist, Learning something new about your detector, showing off your finds, and talking to fellow detectorists about what is going on in the hobby. Probably will never get rich, but the experiences are priceless.
 

If you're paying 2k for the added depth, you're wasting your money. Here's a few of my finds with my Ace 250 and the approximate depth they were found at:

1773 half real - 5 inches
1775 KGIII copper - 5 inches
1776 half real - 4 inches
1784 half real - 4 inches
1803 LC - 5 inches
silver plated colonial shoe buckle - 4 inches

My only really good deep find was my colonial shoe buckle (see avatar). That find was 10 inches down.
 

Point is it isn't anyone's business how you, me or someone else wants to spend the money they earned, whether it is cars, trucks, boats, clothes, homes or even detectors, if they think it is worth the cost that is all that really matters.

Not my business, but everyone here should be able to encourage (or discourage) someone to buy any detector they have an opinion on. Not much of a discussion if every post encourages people to go spend 2k every time they ask what type of detector to buy. Makes the sponsors happy, but it doesn't do much for the overall quality of this site.
 

Not my business, but everyone here should be able to encourage (or discourage) someone to buy any detector they have an opinion on. Not much of a discussion if every post encourages people to go spend 2k every time they ask what type of detector to buy. Makes the sponsors happy, but it doesn't do much for the overall quality of this site.

So Wrong....When some one asks what to buy, one of the very first questions we ask is "what is your budget"? Our answers are based on their budget, if the budget is $300 no one is telling them to buy a $2000 detector...

Posted From My $50 Tablet....
 

If you're paying 2k for the added depth, you're wasting your money. Here's a few of my finds with my Ace 250 and the approximate depth they were found at:

1773 half real - 5 inches
1775 KGIII copper - 5 inches
1776 half real - 4 inches
1784 half real - 4 inches
1803 LC - 5 inches
silver plated colonial shoe buckle - 4 inches

My only really good deep find was my colonial shoe buckle (see avatar). That find was 10 inches down.
Ive got nothing but good things to say about the ACE 250...that was my first detector and I made some good finds with it.
 

Hey Buddy... I know EXACTLY what you were saying and/or meant with your post. I truly do and I mean this.

I used to stand at the shooting line in the archery shop practicing with my Pro Vantage Medalist Hoyt target bow and folks would watch me shoot. I couldn't even shoot 2 arrows at the same target without risking destroying an expensive arrow. Customers would say "Damn... I want exactly what you got". And boy did I sell a lot of them and the exact same expensive arrows. I'd always tell them it wasn't just the bow and the equipment that allowed me to do that (to honest). But buy they did....! These customers were the "experienced" ones who wanted to "buy" some bull eyes.

Then I'd have the customer who would ask "Can you teach me to do that"? And these folks were the ones that impressed me the most. We'd get personal and find what they had to spend. Some had $200.00 and others $5-$600 hundred (at the time). I could take a person who had NEVER shot before (ever) and set him/her up with a cheap $200.00 set-up and they would be outshooting their friend with 30 yrs. "experience" within 1-2 days. Their friend(s) just couldn't figure it out because they shot high dollar equipment. And when their "experienced" friends asked for the same help from me they just couldn't conform because of ingrained bad habits and adjust.

And then.... We'd have the customer who had the "state-of-the-art set-up" poking fun at their counter-parts/friends. Then I'd bring out my totally beaten up Martin Cougar w/worn axles, cams, and twisted limbs. Along with the cheap rest and arrows and pin sights. They'd have a scope, expensive arrows, high dollars release aid and be PISSED OFF quickly when we shot heads up.

So, again... I guess the point is expensive equipment DOES HAVE ITS PLACE... NO DOUBT/DOES. But at this point we're splitting hairs and at times it makes all the difference in the world. Did me when I shot the world's best equipment. I most certainly couldn't shoot against Terry Ragsdale, Frank Pearson, Dee Wilde and many others with bad equipment. But, the difference between the best equipment could/can NEVER be realized without a LOT OF EXPERIENCE and/or without a lot of expert advice and help.

Now the new guy who buys the world's best MD (whatever that is) and finds the mother lode of hordes cannot credit the machine solely. I know... it is debatable. Equipment is over-rated in my mind. JUST DIG IT ALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I hear you...money cant buy experience.
 

Just go buy 4 sand sharks and be done with it. The more the better right?

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sent from a sending device.
 

Only if you have 3 kids to use them
 

If you're paying 2k for the added depth, you're wasting your money. Here's a few of my finds with my Ace 250 and the approximate depth they were found at:

1773 half real - 5 inches
1775 KGIII copper - 5 inches
1776 half real - 4 inches
1784 half real - 4 inches
1803 LC - 5 inches
silver plated colonial shoe buckle - 4 inches

My only really good deep find was my colonial shoe buckle (see avatar). That find was 10 inches down.

Really? In my last 2 hunts I have dug a Barber quarter at 12", a Barber dime at 11" and an Indian Head cent at 11". If I was using your detector I would not have found anything at my site.

Just because you find an old item at a shallow depth doesn't mean there aren't more at much greater depths. It's the same with claiming because a $50 harbor freight detector finds a gold coin at 2 inches that it must be equal to the best detectors around based on the finds, not the condition.
 

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