Processing Sulphide Based Ores

There might also be a passivation or plating process that would make regular high Carbon or stainless steels work for this application. Also, don't forget old-school process hardware like piping made from Lead, ceramic, etc. Teflon/PTFE coatings maybe?
 

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There might also be a passivation or plating process that would make regular high Carbon or stainless steels work for this application. Also, don't forget old-school process hardware like piping made from Lead, ceramic, etc. Teflon/PTFE coatings maybe?

Did some reading last night and it looks like a nylon powder coat will work. No attack at room temperature and an extremely small amount at the boiling point of perchloroethylene.

It looks like it can be applied with standard powder coating equipment so that should be easy. If this works then it isn't propane tanks that would work, any tank like a compressor tank would work to.
 

I bought one of the Fresnel lenses from Dan Rojas many years ago now. You can control the heat temperature pretty good. I'm just adding this because you do have plenty of sun and he has so many different configurations that it might be worth contacting him.
Here's one of their many videos.
 

I bought one of the Fresnel lenses from Dan Rojas many years ago now. You can control the heat temperature pretty good. I'm just adding this because you do have plenty of sun and he has so many different configurations that it might be worth contacting him.
Here's one of their many videos.


Well now, that could be interesting. Wonder if it can burn out fire ants?

Been evaluating some machinery and bought a small lathe so we will be off to the races here soon enough.
 

Gonna be tied up for a little while. New toy is getting a complete teardown and rebuild. They were gonna scrap it due to nobody wanting it due to it being three phase.

14 inches of swing and 82 inches between centers. Complete with steady rest and taper attachment for tapered shafts. Should be able to make some serious eccentric shafts here soon.
 

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Sweet lathe, I rebuilt a pair of South Bend 9", just a little bit smaller.

The taper attachment is the real gem. Time to build a bigger bead blaster hood?
 

Gonna be tied up for a little while. New toy is getting a complete teardown and rebuild. They were gonna scrap it due to nobody wanting it due to it being three phase.

14 inches of swing and 82 inches between centers. Complete with steady rest and taper attachment for tapered shafts. Should be able to make some serious eccentric shafts here soon.

That's a nice score. Is it a Southbend 14? Should clean up pretty well.
 

Early '40's Rockford lathe. A no frills, solidly built piece of machinery. Nothing like the Chicom built junk today.

I'll bet some kerosene and Scotchbrite will get it up to operating condition. You can get Vactra oil for the ways and spindle oil from Grainger or McMaster-Carr.
 

There is a company back east that sells anodizing and plating chemical/systems you may want to check out. They have an electroless nickel solution that you can add PTFE or Boron Nitride to increasing corrosion resistance while actually bonding to the base metal. Plus, you can circulate the solution through the interior of the equipment, even heat exchangers and such. I don't know if I can insert links but let me know if you are interested. Epoxy wouldn't be a bad way to go either, I know Masterbond makes some highly resistant kits for lining pipes and vessels.

At my company, we deal with a variety of acids, superacids, solvents, bases in contact with mixers, pumps, distillation, et. al.. Of course, not all this occurs in a singular instance so we also have to select materials per application. Anyways, point being, a lot of things are rated a certain way but actually work fine for some time in most conditions. Corrosion in metals is always measured as a rate, whereas plastics it is either go or nogo. Most industries have to balance cost of materials with an acceptable rate; as opposed to using bulletproof materials. This is what most charts don't disclose and to minimize liability they will err towards extreme caution (hard to disagree with).
Chloride cracking is a known issue in austenitic ss but 316L can often make the difference over 304 due to higher nickel +Molybendum. Also, even a minor presence of oxygenation can significantly decrease the effect of said chlorides. Finally, temperature/pressure are really the dominant components of this particular triangle (shocker, huh)... Otherwise, one has to look to either 400 series (martensitic) alloys or exotics like Alloy20, Duplex, Hastelloy.

So, there's that... This is a very interesting topic for me and for the first 12 years of my adult life, I was a welder (primarily Stainless) with certs in PP and PV so I would be happy to lend an ear/hand/voice if you're itching to make some pro-grade process equipment.
 

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