Old Two Piece Brass Button

TomB

Full Member
Nov 16, 2007
132
6
Southwest Virginia
Detector(s) used
Metrotech 220 and Minelab X-Terra-70
Yesterday I hunted an old resort site that was established in 1850. I have done quite a bit of research and believe that the 45th Virginia Infantry was encamped there during the winter of 1861.

I was working the area that I suspect the camp was located, looking for nails (from equipment crates) horse shoes, etc.

In the middle of a 20 acre field my X-Terra-70 gave me a strong 36 reading at 8". I recovered a two piece flat brass button. There appears to be lettering and some type emblem on the front. You can just make out some letters on the back of the button.

I tried electrolysis to clean the button but still can't make it out.

I haven't seen to many two piece flat brass buttons from the civil war era. I suspect the button is a bit older.

Any suggestion as to what it might be or any ideas on how to clean it would be appreciated.
TomB
 

Attachments

  • old button 001s.JPG
    old button 001s.JPG
    11.4 KB · Views: 319
  • old button 002s.JPG
    old button 002s.JPG
    11.7 KB · Views: 287
  • old button 3s.jpg
    old button 3s.jpg
    4.4 KB · Views: 308
  • old button4.jpg
    old button4.jpg
    5.7 KB · Views: 289
Are you sure they go together? Could be the back of a domed button and then other something else??

Daryl
 

Upvote 0
Tom,

I can't really tell from the photos whether the button is thin or thick...but it is obviously two-piece from the photo of the reverse. (Daryl, "two-piece" is just a term describing the button's construction--not meaning that the button came up in two pieces.) I have only seen one-piece flat buttons and two-piece domed buttons. Yours does look domed. Can we see it from the side? (I have a hunch that the reason you're describing it as "flat" is because the button was stepped on or somehow flattened after it was lost.)

Also--just a word of advice here--I would never use electrolysis on a button. Heck, I wouldn't even let a two-piece button soak in anything if there was any sign of damage or compromise. Some of them can be quite fragile. I usually gently toothpick the verdegris away--provided the button isn't gilded. It takes some time, but it is worth it. It obviously isn't an Eagle button...but it could be just about anything. What we need is a backmark for it, if possible--or as many letters of the backmark as possible. As far as the front design... In the first photo, your button looks like a Texas button--and the Texas one did have a flat edge and a dome farther inward in several of its varieties. Of course, a Texas button wouldn't be found at the sites you're hunting...

Regards,


Buckleboy
 

Upvote 0
Hi Buckleboy - I have just found the halves of two-piece buttons. I know they were made from two pieces but sometimes I find just one half. I was thinking that this might be the case here. He might have found the bottom "straight" half of a button and a flat "thingy" that isn't really part of the bottom. Just a thought.

Daryl
 

Upvote 0
BioProfessor said:
Are you sure they go together? Could be the back of a domed button and then other something else??

Daryl

The first two pics I posted, with the dime, are not very good. I then scanned the front of the button and then the back of the button. You can see on the back of the button where it is attached to the front. I did not explain this on first post. Also the loop on the back is missing.
Tom
 

Upvote 0
BuckleBoy said:
Tom,

I can't really tell from the photos whether the button is thin or thick...but it is obviously two-piece from the photo of the reverse. (Daryl, "two-piece" is just a term describing the button's construction--not meaning that the button came up in two pieces.) I have only seen one-piece flat buttons and two-piece domed buttons. Yours does look domed. Can we see it from the side? (I have a hunch that the reason you're describing it as "flat" is because the button was stepped on or somehow flattened after it was lost.)

Also--just a word of advice here--I would never use electrolysis on a button. Heck, I wouldn't even let a two-piece button soak in anything if there was any sign of damage or compromise. Some of them can be quite fragile. I usually gently toothpick the verdegris away--provided the button isn't gilded. It takes some time, but it is worth it. It obviously isn't an Eagle button...but it could be just about anything. What we need is a backmark for it, if possible--or as many letters of the backmark as possible. As far as the front design... In the first photo, your button looks like a Texas button--and the Texas one did have a flat edge and a dome farther inward in several of its varieties. Of course, a Texas button wouldn't be found at the sites you're hunting...

Regards,


Buckleboy

Thanks Will...and advice well taken. Knew I should not have done it right after I did it. >:(

I cant say the button wasn't stepted on but I have recovered some that have been. You can tell that they have been stepted on because there is a dimple effect on the front of the button. This button is level across the front and there is no dimple effect.

I have tried to Scan the button so you can see it from the side. I'm going to try and find a microscope and see if I can make out any of the lettering on the back.
Tom
 

Attachments

  • old button 5.jpg
    old button 5.jpg
    6.3 KB · Views: 227
Upvote 0
Thanks for the extra scan of the button, Tom.

That is an odd one. I'm going through the books now. I have never found a CW button that was like that. It is exactly as you say though, a "two-piece flat button." Any luck on reading even part of the backmark?


-Buckleboy
 

Upvote 0

Top Member Reactions

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top