My new 16” Highland Park saw arrived yesterday. Hopefully I can do a test run or two today.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
1/8th standard for a saw that size, they do make a thinner blade but it costs an arm and a leg. Not that they are cheap in the first place. They do last a very long time if taken care of and being sure they have the proper water flow for all cutting.I havent measured it but would guess 1/8”. It’s pretty stout.
I think you could use water for these igneous rocks but I use oil. It’s lapidary oil that is thin like mineral oil. Plus, the saw won’t rust with oil like it surely would with water. You for sure need to use non flammable lubricants.Another question: Is it water / oil cooled or isn't it required?
I admit I know NOTHING about your saw or your hobby but am truly interested. I'm only using my common sense about it with NO knowledge.I think you could use water for these igneous rocks but I use oil. It’s lapidary oil that is thin like mineral oil. Plus, the saw won’t rust with oil like it surely would with water. You for sure need to use non flammable lubricants.
I suppose that would work but you’d be limited to cutting softer rocks. For very hard rocks like flint or agate oil is a must.QUESTION: If you did use water with a rust inhibitor or a type of anti-freeze would that work or protect your saw possibly? But I'm sure the oil is probably better overall for the blade and saw.
Actually water would be just fine with any type of rock. We use these types of saws for glass and azs refractory liner(some of the hardest and densest stuff I have ever encountered) and we used water with just a touch of water soluble oil.(can't remember the type of oil off the top of my head). What ever you use its main job is to keep the particles from clogging up the diamonds in the blade and keeping it cool. There are even these white dressing stones that you can use before each project to ensure the blade is clean before you start. The rust thing you are spot on about though, with the amount of cutting we did it didn't make sense financially for us to use a pure cutting oil.I suppose that would work but you’d be limited to cutting softer rocks. For very hard rocks like flint or agate oil is a must.