new and need help

nbmd21

Newbie
Jan 17, 2014
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Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
alright so im new to metal detecting and it sounds fun..but i dont have a metal detector yet.
im close to the beach in myrtle beach and thats probably where im going to do most of my hunting
i was curious to know if anyone had suggestions on which metal detector to get ...im a little strapped for cash
and can only afford 22o ish at the most any suggestions on a detector that id be able to use on the beach/dry land elsewhere,
and possibly in an inch or two of surf? thanks!! i was looking at the bounty hunter sharpshooter II model on amazon and it didnt say
whether or not it was vfi or pi as ive read the vfi is baad for salt water ...so any clues?sorry for the double post
 

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Let's start with the PI vs VLF in price. You will not get a PI machine for anything near $220. And there are some VLF machines that will work well in saltwater. The prerequisite is the ability to ground balance all the way to salt. So, again probably not going to happen for the money. Now the good news: there is a LOT of detecting to be done above the low tide mark when the tide is out. AND a lot of jewelry is lost above the HIGH tide mark. With that in mind, you still want to get the most bang for your buck. The two best detectors in your price range (IMO) are the Teknetics EuroTek Pro and the Garrett ACE 250. Of the two, I would pick the EuroTek for what you have in mind as it was designed for more highly mineralized soil. Feel free to PM me with any questions.
 

The quest for the perfect metal detector to this point has been quixotic. Minelab, has come the closest to building a fully submersible beach machine that can discriminate out iron in wet sand and saltwater. The “Excalibur” uses Broad Band Spectrum, or “BBS” technology, and retails for about $1,500.00.

According to Minelab, their BBS operating system, “simultaneously transmits, receives and analyses a broad band of multiple frequencies to deliver substantial detection depth, high sensitivity and accurate discrimination for a wide range of target types.” The key takeaway here is “multiple frequencies.” Unfortunately, radio waves regardless of their frequency still have to be filtered and balanced in heavily conductive wet-ocean sand and highly mineralized saltwater. That limits the systems depth capabilities.

Single frequency VLF machines (Very Low Frequency), have even more limitations in the harsh saltwater environment. Take for example the Tesoro Lobo Super Traq. This VLF single frequency machine (17.9Khz) is one of the finest and deepest gold nugget finders on the market today. The Lobo Super Traq, is capable of finding BB-sized gold nuggets six-inches deep in heavily mineralized ground, or a nickel in dry beach sand at 12-inches. Put that same nugget – or even the nickel, seven-inches deep in wet saltwater sand and the Lobo could walk right over it while chattering, or maybe without seeing it at all. Why?

The magnetic iron sands (“Black Sands”), salt, and high concentrations of other minerals in the water and sand conspire to bounce the radio waves away from the target. Conductivity and mineralization act like a shield around the target and create white noise that must be filtered electronically. Think of it as turning on your bright headlights in a heavy fog at night. All that powerful light is diffused and causes a complete white out – you can’t see anything three-feet past the hood of your car! However when you turn on your yellow fog lights, you can see a little further – not as far as you could in clear daylight, but further. That is why all radio wave machines must be “ground balanced” or tuned, to maximize their depth potential, and why BBS filters and multi-frequencies are so effective – yet still limited.

Unlike BBS and VLF metal detectors, which constantly send and receive thousands of low frequency radio waves per second, a Pulse Induction (PI) metal detector fires high-voltage pulses into the sand several hundred times per second. If no metal is present the electric pulse decays at a uniform rate with no anomalies. When metal is present a small “eddy” current flows through it causing the voltage decay time to increase, which creates a measurable anomaly. Unlike VLF radio waves, electronic pulses are impervious to the effects of conductivity and mineralization, and are unaffected by salt or black sands.

PI metal detectors give the user superior depth capabilities in all metal detecting situations and soil conditions. Using the same heavy fog at night metaphor that I referred to earlier, pulse induction is like headlights that cut completely through the fog as if it were not there at all. The trade-off for that added depth and clarity is the inability to discriminate, or block out iron targets that you generally don’t want to waste time and energy digging. While a pulse induction machine detects all metals without discrimination, the minute differences in the signal tone and quality can give a skilled and experienced operator a clue as to what the target may, or may not be.

Will one machine do it all? Not in my opinion. I always advise new beach metal detecting hobbyists to have a VLF machine for dry sand (as well as their other dirt detecting needs), and a PI machine for the water and wet-sand (and deep farm field and relic hunting). In truth, it all comes down to what you prefer and can afford. Here are some good beginner detectors - Good Luck!

 

I assume you have looked into the prices of the scoops you will need? The dry sand scoop is not to expensive, and can even be DIYed if need be, however a scoop that will work in wet sand and hold up will set you back no less than $125. I'm not on the beach, but had thought about day trips as my White's Coinmaster GT has a beach mode for wet sand. Unfortunately I just can't justify buying a scoop for one or two hunts a year. Good luck in your choice!
 

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hey thanks for the answers guys! another question i have to airscapes reply
would be about the scoop all the videos ive watched definitely say to use a sand scoop
what would be the problem with a trowel? also do you think it would cheaper/easier to just make my own sand scoop? thanks
 

No... not unless u own a machine shop... Don't waste your time on PVC or the likes, it won't last. I would get a simple hand scoop,, hunt the fluff till ya find enough to move up...
 

hey thanks for the answers guys! another question i have to airscapes reply
would be about the scoop all the videos ive watched definitely say to use a sand scoop
what would be the problem with a trowel? also do you think it would cheaper/easier to just make my own sand scoop? thanks

You need as scoop to sift out the sand and leave your target in the bottom, so a trowel would not work. A factory build scoop for dry sand is not that expensive and will last longer than a DIY.. That said, if you have the proper raw material and the tools and skill set to make a dry sand scoop go for it!
Wet sand no.. I have seen video and pictures of the $140 scoops destroyed, wet sand is hard and standing on the back of the scoop with your foot takes a toll on metal riddled with holes that let the sand out.. Again, like all hobbies there are required accessories that drive up the cost of the hobby.. Yes, you can play golf with just one club, but it is going to be much more fun using the proper club for the job at hand..
 

While most of us use scoops, you can use a trowel or shovel in sand. It won't work in the water, as the waves will refill the hole before you recover the target.

VLF Detectors without ground balance will work at the beach, but you will have to lower the sensitivity and lose depth. There are better choices, but given your budget, the suggestions from the other posts will get you started.

Wayne

www.metaldetectingstuff.com
 

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