My First Miller Table (pictures)

CharlieBitMe

Greenie
Apr 22, 2010
16
1
I got a broken slate/quartzite countertop piece for next to nothing and had it cut at Lowe's for free. I'm extremely happy with the end result because now I can get through all my concentrates in two hours, whereas previously it took almost a day. I'm also attaching a photo of the table before I put the little dam in to even the flow.

It's awesome to see the flow wash all the sand and iron away and leave my gold (sometimes down to micron/mosquito eye size) sitting on the table. I went through all my concentrates and was surprised to find quite a few nice sized flakes that had slipped past my pan.

Is there anything else I can do to further improve the design? My biggest problem is I can't run the water too fast because it starts cavitating and I start washing down the really small pieces.
 

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Hi charlie: you posted -->Is there anything else I can do to further improve the design?
*********
Yep, anchor a piece of thin, light plastic at the 'head' of the table only, full width, and length. This allows the thin plastic to float on top of the flow over your table and forces any floating fines under the surface increasing recovery. Simple but very effective, and like me, Cheap !

Don Jose de La Mancha (Tropical Tramp)

p.s. out of every 10 kilos of Gold recoverd this way, you owe a beer, San Miguel please, he he he
 

Real de Tayopa said:
Hi charlie: you posted -->Is there anything else I can do to further improve the design?
*********
Yep, anchor a piece of thin, light plastic at the 'head' of the table only, full width, and length. This allows the thin plastic to float on top of the flow over your table and forces any floating fines under the surface increasing recovery. Simple but very effective, and like me, Cheap !

Don Jose de La Mancha (Tropical Tramp)

p.s. out of every 10 kilos of Gold recoverd this way, you owe a beer, San Miguel please, he he he

Thanks Real. Do you have any photos to show me exactly what you're talking about? How far down from the waterfall would I put this piece of plastic? How do you make sure no water flows over it?

As far as the beer goes, once I get to 10 kilos I'll buy you more than a San Miguel. However, after one of these: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Delirium_Tremens.jpg you might not give your San Miguel a second glance.

Cheers.
 

Charlie,
Try replacing the valve from the hose with a more regulating "turn style". It'l be easier to get the flow down to the trickle needed. TTC
 

Shake n Flake said:
What is the principle behind a Miller Table? How does it work?
Shaky (sic),
search Astrobouncer's post on the miller table. He describes it well! TTC
 

Looking good man! Thanks again for the piece of stone, one of these days I will be getting around to making mine.
 

Looks good, now I'm interested in miller tables myself, lots of fines where i go and hunt.

What if you could somehow add a slight vibration to that whole table?

I was thinking a slight osculating vibration to keep the lighter stuff in suspension possibly making it easier to clean the cons?

If that's possible then its just a matter of adjusting the flow and angle of the table.
 

GoldinSocal said:
Looks good, now I'm interested in miller tables myself, lots of fines where i go and hunt.

What if you could somehow add a slight vibration to that whole table?

I was thinking a slight osculating vibration to keep the lighter stuff in suspension possibly making it easier to clean the cons?

If that's possible then its just a matter of adjusting the flow and angle of the table.

Vibration only complicates the design. You now have to figure out where to attach your debalanced rotor. This table works like a charm as is w/o vibration. As long as you classify, then flow and tilt is more than enough to separate the black sands from your gold. It works really fast too. With this table I don't need to pan my concentrates any more.
 

Good to know, I appreciate it.

I don't mind test panning, but panning cons is out of the question for me unless i have no other option.

Once again looks good, and good going. :headbang:
 

Good morning: just anchor a piece of clear light plastic 'just below' where you are introducing the concentrate full width and at least 1/2 the length of your table.

It merely lightly floats on top of the water flow depressing any fines under the surface tension. Once under, they quickly sink -- into your pocket book.

Incidentally, that is 'Export' San Miguel. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Miguel_Beer

Don Jose de La Mancha ( I exist to LIVE: not live to exist)
 

Real de Tayopa (Tropical Tramp said:
Good morning: just anchor a piece of clear light plastic 'just below' where you are introducing the concentrate full width and at least 1/2 the length of your table.

It merely lightly floats on top of the water flow depressing any fines under the surface tension. Once under, they quickly sink -- into your pocket book.

Incidentally, that is 'Export' San Miguel. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Miguel_Beer

Don Jose de La Mancha ( I exist to LIVE: not live to exist)

Don Quixote Real de Tayopa, you have my word that once I get my first pound of gold, I'll ship a case of San Miguel (export version) to a location of your choosing.
Cheers.
 

Great looking device im guessing the slate having a porurse surface gets the gold to stick and black sand not to. I once seen an older gentelmans clean up sluice have a slick piece of rubber in it and actualy seen it work with just the right amont of water and agle the gold would stick and the sand would move on. but the whole time as soon as he seen a flake or a speck right in the snuffer it went . im a prospector in indiana so you relize i am familler with the small stuff.nice job on the sluice good and clean cuts and well thought out. thanks .
 

hmm i think i might try this too...
 

wow i just read that pdf man thats alot of good info that was great thanks for sharing that goldchaser
 

yes Gary did a great job on his write up on miller tables. i found that useing a smaller pump (500 GPH) or smaller is better for the fines youll be running.i found that valveing down a pump at the sluice will increase the pressure of the water and cause problems. make sure you screen everything several screen sizes (30- 200??) to take advantage of the specific gravity of your fines.and use a sufactant in the water (jet-dry and i also like to use clay-gone with it) you want the water flow across the table as smooth as glass (NO RIPPLES OR DISTORTION in the water surface of any kind)and the less water you run across the fines ,the better your recovery.im sorry but i dont think the damper across a Miller table would be good/not needed if it is run correctly for the size of fine gold your going tobe running.im a firm beleiver in (when your running really fine stuff) the slower your fed and the slower the water, the better recovery youll have!i also like useing a autofeeder to free me up for other things.
 

I see that most use a gate type flow regulator to smooth out ripples in the water. I have made several miller tables and tried several ways to smooth out the flow.

One way is to use filter material (furnace filter, scotch pad, etc.) under the water bar to even out the flow ..... should also be used in combination with the gate.

Another way is instead of making a low bridge (gate) for the water to go under, try using a spillway. Take a 2" dia. piece of pvc pipe the width of the table and cut it lengthways so that you have a half pipe then attach it across the table a few inches in front of the water source round side up of course for the water to flow over.

I recommend using the filter material no matter which method you use because it really has a way of evening out the turbulence caused by the water entering the table from the source.

GG~
 

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