my best Connecticut copper, variety type?

mattysee

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Jul 9, 2011
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albany ny
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Upvote 16
so i didnt really get an answer about the mark or die crack below the b on the reverse, what exactly is it and does it add value or hurt it? also as far as a rarity 5+ is it worth getting slabbed?


Indirectly it can hurt it a little in some cases because like mentioned it's a later die state, and late die state coins might not be struck quite as well. Even though they are not significant, I still think die cracks are cool.

I also agree with it not being worth sending in for grading. You'd think a "Very Rare" coin would be something of high interest, but with so many CT varieties most collectors have so many slots to fill they don't really have to fight over many coins to add one, and especially a dug one. The bigtime rare stuff is a different story though, because that's where the advanced collectors come into play and if you get a few of the high rollers all trying to fill a spot in their collection, you can be guaranteed a good payday. A few years back I seen a dug CT sell on Ebay and the hammer price was $14,000. Don't remember the rarity, but obviously up there, probably 8-10.
 

Just want to add to what IP and l.cutler has stated, which I agree with 100%. The vast majority of colonial coin collectors do not like coins encased in plastic. Unless for your own collection you want to spend the money I would never do it with any dug colonial era copper. Don
 

Just want to add to what IP and l.cutler has stated, which I agree with 100%. The vast majority of colonial coin collectors do not like coins encased in plastic. Unless for your own collection you want to spend the money I would never do it with any dug colonial era copper. Don


Never thought of this, but I wonder if grading companies will certify a coin as genuine, give you some paperwork with a picture, and leave it out of the plastic if you make the request?
 

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Sent an M-33.1-z19 into PCGS one time. Great detail, and I think it was a 4 or 5+ rarity at the time. Paid extra for confirmation of variety also. They sent it back in a body bag with the usual "qualifiers"....BLA BLA BLA! Never even got a refund for the extra I paid. R-I-P--O-F-F!!!!! IP.....if you haven't noticed by now.....You always get the same people on this site, trying to get people to authenticate and or "conserve" a coin, (so to speak), on here! Friggin' waste of time and money, UNLESS it's an ultra rarity that HAS to be authenticated for sale. I've stopped arguing this point, as it is "pointless" to some! So I leave it all up to experience, as I have been EXTREMELY disappointed with grading companies. Experience is the best teacher.
 

Sent an M-33.1-z19 into PCGS one time. Great detail, and I think it was a 4 or 5+ rarity at the time. Paid extra for confirmation of variety also. They sent it back in a body bag with the usual "qualifiers"....BLA BLA BLA! Never even got a refund for the extra I paid. R-I-P--O-F-F!!!!! IP.....if you haven't noticed by now.....You always get the same people on this site, trying to get people to authenticate and or "conserve" a coin, (so to speak), on here! Friggin' waste of time and money, UNLESS it's an ultra rarity that HAS to be authenticated for sale. I've stopped arguing this point, as it is "pointless" to some! So I leave it all up to experience, as I have been EXTREMELY disappointed with grading companies. Experience is the best teacher.


Well that is not me. :) I have a local coin that's pretty rare and after I found it someone sent me a link to a coin forum where there was actually a thread bad mouthing it and saying if anyone bought it they would be sorry. That was in 2001 and I've had it for well over a decade without doing anything because I didn't need anyone to tell me what it is, because I knew the truth! Finally a couple of years ago a book came out, which includes it, but like I said it doesn't tell me anything I didn't already know. And I never did send it anywhere... the author asked, but I refused.
 

OK, I THINK it might be this one. 1787 Connecticut Copper - Miller 33.34-W.2 I think the giveaway and final decision I made is based on the letter E with the sloping down lower part.. I would like a 2nd opinion on it being the 33.34-W.2. Rarity 5+ (recent auction catalog rating). Don

I think you nailed it Don. I have a 33.34-Z.3, obverse shown below. I also have a 33.28-Z.11. These are the only other reverse dies known paired with obverse 33.34. Reverse W.2 is known with a die break going across the shield. This may be a later state of that die. Without seeing the coin you can never be absolutely sure and sometimes not even when you do see the coin, but I think you got it right with 33.34-W.2.

20150413_162346.jpg
 

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That's a nice one. You're fortunate to have dug one with enough detail to nail down the variety. Congrats! :thumbsup:
 

i appreciate all the effort and time spent by you guys for the i.d. and the advice, im going to throw it up on ebay and let the masses decide what its worth lol tomorrow i head for the hills to find a rarity 10+ happy hunting yall!!!
 

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