Keene frame ugarde

G1sammons

Bronze Member
Dec 26, 2012
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Murfreesboro tn
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My one who has ever owned a newer keene has noticed a flimsy frame problem ..
Well iv found a simple solution and figured I'd post it ... As well as a simple heater setup..
The third picture show a mild squat they often do .... Tiger pawed ...
The others show a piece on 1" tach welded across to the handles .. It could be made to be removable if ya wanted ...
The heater is a triton camp shower .. Runs off propane easy and simple to set up ... I run it off a 3/4 pipe I weld onto the blaster nozzle tube .. It's not don on this one yet but I'll add the picture when it's finished . With these style heaters there's no need for a mixing tank you just turn it up or down to adjust your desired heat level... You can buy them off amazon for about 120 dollars delivered to your home ... Be carful as some other camp showers simlar to this have a auto shutdown after 15 mins or so ...
The triton does not ..
Also about 20 hrs on 1 tank of propane ...
 

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By the way straighten the frame first before welding the cross support. Otherwise it's stuck that way..
 

Here ye go
 

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What foot valve is that ? Im still dont know what foot valve to buy or how to make one ..
Dont feel like paying too much for one
 

What foot valve is that ? Im still dont know what foot valve to buy or how to make one .. Dont feel like paying too much for one
proline !
But there are all pricey ... Might check tsc or nothern tool if ya want cheap ... But I'll tell ya there's a price to pay...
 

A foot valve i think is easy to make. But i didnt feel like making more parts than what i already have to make. I was thinking about a ball foot valve but you cant tilt it side ways because the ball wont go down. It works by gravity. It also weights like 20 pounds; pretty heavy i would say.
 

like the one I use on my grill .. It's not a big bottle but I don't know the size
I think it's 18 hours to be exact .. What I like about it is that it's simple ! No mixing tank no surges it stays at a constant heat ..
When I used a mufler heater it alway surged hot to warm and every once in a while it would burn me .. So I trashed it and gave up on the cold water... Until I saw one of these being used ...
 

Well it's nothing fancy but it gets the job done.. It's beat up pretty bad but it never gives me a problem .. It uses 2d battery's
 

My one who has ever owned a newer keene has noticed a flimsy frame problem ..
Well iv found a simple solution and figured I'd post it ... As well as a simple heater setup..
The third picture show a mild squat they often do .... Tiger pawed ...
The others show a piece on 1" tach welded across to the handles .. It could be made to be removable if ya wanted ...
The heater is a triton camp shower .. Runs off propane easy and simple to set up ... I run it off a 3/4 pipe I weld onto the blaster nozzle tube .. It's not don on this one yet but I'll add the picture when it's finished . With these style heaters there's no need for a mixing tank you just turn it up or down to adjust your desired heat level... You can buy them off amazon for about 120 dollars delivered to your home ... Be carful as some other camp showers simlar to this have a auto shutdown after 15 mins or so ...
The triton does not ..
Also about 20 hrs on 1 tank of propane ...

G1 it looks like the build is going very well but I want to commend you on your attention to fire safety, pic 3
 

G1 it looks like the build is going very well but I want to commend you on your attention to fire safety, pic 3
lol those r from boats that pass thru me I always nab the fire extinguishers.
But I break the rules welded most of the day right next to the honda fuel tank .. I just lay welding gloves on the tank ..
And hope like hell it doesn't blow .... Thou iv never had a gas fire from welding iv had battery's blow up on me..
Always seem to over look them.... It suck when it happens it destroys you shirt ,pants and shoes
 

Speaking of Keene frame modifications; I found a need to modify the frame because I use a new Keene triple layer 4 inch dredge on a very small stream..... that usually is only a few inches deep when I first start dredging (Oregon). Due to the low profile of the sluice the tailings clog up the end of the sluice in just a matter of minutes.....as the depth of the stream can be quite shallow. So I inverted the frame where the sluice sets....elevating the sluice. This presented another problem though: The flare system then went into the motor/pump unit. So I elevated the motor/pump with a 3/8 channel frame/box, attaching it to the frame, and that allowed the flare to go under the motor/pump.

The advantage of this: It allows the tailings to disperse and spread out and not immediately clog the end of the sluice. After some time dredging the position of the tailings can create a dam effect raising the water level so the dredge floats instead of resting on the stream rocks/gravels. I have been using the dredge this way for 8 years now and it solved a major problem.....as I run the dredge by myself and don't have a someone to keep the tailings dispersed. By elevating the sluice the "water flow" exiting the sluice disperses the tailings dramatically.

For small shallow streams I highly suggest such a modification on the newer low profile Keene dredges.

bejay
 

foot valves are EZ to make! go to a plumbing supply and buy a check valve for the size of hose you need and then install some perferated screen around the suction side of it and you got it. i just did one for my 2 inch dredge for $18. just make sure you have the flapper pointed in the correct direction! it took me all of 20 mins. to make it! im old and slow!
 

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