mad4wrecks
Bronze Member
- Dec 20, 2004
- 2,263
- 109
- Detector(s) used
- Aquapulse, DetectorPro Headhunter, Fisher F75
- Primary Interest:
- Shipwrecks
I vote for the clam sheal bucket or the leaf blower.
Jet Ski.
- Thread starter Peg Leg
- Start date
Peg
I should have made myself clear. I meant 6" in the reported object. I dealt with plastic barrels before. Once you cut the top and bottoms out you may have ridgidity problems. Your 100% on the right track with the pvc. You can try the theory on a very small scale:
Go to the location and collect samples of all the materials you will be dealing with and recreate them in lets say a 5 gallon bucket in their respective layers using inches for feet including the target coin, rock, etc.
Rig up the water auger idea and see how she'll work on a small scale. miniscule costs to try out the theory. If you want an ultra stealth setup, go 12volt. You can get a powerful bilge pump for the water auger. A 2 battery bank will do the trick. No noise at all. And no gas fumes.
I should have made myself clear. I meant 6" in the reported object. I dealt with plastic barrels before. Once you cut the top and bottoms out you may have ridgidity problems. Your 100% on the right track with the pvc. You can try the theory on a very small scale:
Go to the location and collect samples of all the materials you will be dealing with and recreate them in lets say a 5 gallon bucket in their respective layers using inches for feet including the target coin, rock, etc.
Rig up the water auger idea and see how she'll work on a small scale. miniscule costs to try out the theory. If you want an ultra stealth setup, go 12volt. You can get a powerful bilge pump for the water auger. A 2 battery bank will do the trick. No noise at all. And no gas fumes.
- Thread starter
- #24
There is no sea water. It is all fresh water but has a lot of tannic acid other things in the water.
Before I even start I will drive a piece of PVC all the way to bed rock-about 12 feet down and then remove the PVC and then cut the PVC in half and see what the material looks like. This is not different that a miner getting a CORE SAMPLE actually this is what it is a CORE SAMPLE. I can seal the top end and this will not change the material inside and it will not have any effect of the material I am searching for.
In fact before going to all this trouble I think that I will seal the end going into the sand and place a MD probe inside the PVC and see what is there. Then if it is confirmed then go and work on a way to recover the STUFF.
I love it when Great Minds work together.
Peg Leg
but has a lot of tannic acid other things in the water.Before I even start I will drive a piece of PVC all the way to bed rock-about 12 feet down and then remove the PVC and then cut the PVC in half and see what the material looks like. This is not different that a miner getting a CORE SAMPLE actually this is what it is a CORE SAMPLE. I can seal the top end and this will not change the material inside and it will not have any effect of the material I am searching for.
In fact before going to all this trouble I think that I will seal the end going into the sand and place a MD probe inside the PVC and see what is there. Then if it is confirmed then go and work on a way to recover the STUFF.
I love it when Great Minds work together.
Peg Leg
Thats the ticket. verification is step one. the probe idea sounds great. Core sampling would be a phenominal help. Just keep in mind the pressure factor. the deeper, the harder it is to drive the pipe especially with the end capped off. Without sometype of 'pre-drilling' (which is the purpose behind the augers) the pvc may break at some point. I was thinking you might could switch to galved pipe but it may give you a false reading (unless the MD can discrim), not sure. how will you drive the pipe?
so far, the procedure is forming itself as the following:
verification>core sample> macro-test equipment>object recovery?
Like you said, just one bar (hopefully) would finance the larger recovery with heavy machinery(?).
so far, the procedure is forming itself as the following:
verification>core sample> macro-test equipment>object recovery?
Like you said, just one bar (hopefully) would finance the larger recovery with heavy machinery(?).
- Thread starter
- #26
What I was thinking was to drive the thick walled pvc the same way you drive pipe for a well.
You weld a 3 foot piece of pipe to a wheel rim. Then weld a couple of handles to the rim then add about 20 pounds of lead to the rim. Place the metal pipe inside the pvc tube lift the wheel rim and let it drop . To start with you only lift the wheel a few inches, this will allow the pvc to start in the right direction. Once the pvc has gone a few feet into the sand the pressure from the sand will prevent the pvc from breaking. Now we all know that the shorter the pvc pipe the stronger it is.
The first section will be about 5 feet long, the other sections will be only about 3 feet long.
This means that when the sections are to be added they will be coupled and glued . With the depth at 12 feet I figure I will need 1 piece at 5 ' and 3 pieces at 3'.
In order to pull this pipe up I can use a clamp at each connection and pull the thing straight up and out. Of course the top section will be capped and sealed to prevent the material from going out of the tube on its way up.
Once the pvc is out I can cut the cap off and drain the water. Then I will cut the pvc pipe in half and know what I am dealing with.
Of course it sounds good on paper but you never know till you try.
To be honest I really have no idea how deep the hardpan is until I drive somethig down to see but I can say that it is Limerock for SURE.
Peg Leg
You weld a 3 foot piece of pipe to a wheel rim. Then weld a couple of handles to the rim then add about 20 pounds of lead to the rim. Place the metal pipe inside the pvc tube lift the wheel rim and let it drop . To start with you only lift the wheel a few inches, this will allow the pvc to start in the right direction. Once the pvc has gone a few feet into the sand the pressure from the sand will prevent the pvc from breaking. Now we all know that the shorter the pvc pipe the stronger it is.
The first section will be about 5 feet long, the other sections will be only about 3 feet long.
This means that when the sections are to be added they will be coupled and glued . With the depth at 12 feet I figure I will need 1 piece at 5 ' and 3 pieces at 3'.
In order to pull this pipe up I can use a clamp at each connection and pull the thing straight up and out. Of course the top section will be capped and sealed to prevent the material from going out of the tube on its way up.
Once the pvc is out I can cut the cap off and drain the water. Then I will cut the pvc pipe in half and know what I am dealing with.
Of course it sounds good on paper but you never know till you try.
To be honest I really have no idea how deep the hardpan is until I drive somethig down to see but I can say that it is Limerock for SURE.
Peg Leg
ScubaFinder
Bronze Member
- Jul 11, 2006
- 2,220
- 530
- Detector(s) used
- AquaPulse AQ1B - AquaPulse DX-200 Magnetometer
- Primary Interest:
- Shipwrecks
Guys, this sounds like a whole lot of trouble for a fairly simple task...trying to lift a 12ft. PVC core sample won't be an easy chore....the suction created when you cap the top off will be extreme...it increases as you try to pull it out.
Why not just get somebody to dive with a scooter and blow away the sand and muck? You can plan this for a year, and bring up core smaples, etc. or you can get in the water and go get the stuff. 10 feet from shore you could dig all the way to hard pan with a small air powered dredge and one tank. Don't make it so complicated....just hop in and go get it. Give me a full tank and a ping pong paddle and I'll dig it out before I'm out of air...it's just not that difficult. Keep it SIMPLE!
Why not just get somebody to dive with a scooter and blow away the sand and muck? You can plan this for a year, and bring up core smaples, etc. or you can get in the water and go get the stuff. 10 feet from shore you could dig all the way to hard pan with a small air powered dredge and one tank. Don't make it so complicated....just hop in and go get it. Give me a full tank and a ping pong paddle and I'll dig it out before I'm out of air...it's just not that difficult. Keep it SIMPLE!
Thats also feesible, Scuba. EVENTUALLY, Peg can dust some 1200 cubic feet of matter and get'er done. Either way there is some time investment.
I dont know all the particulars that need to be dealt with nor what or who Peg has at his disposal. But if nothing else there should be some type of verification to back up Dell's claim. I think Peg is trying to be efficent by isolating the object(s) and localising the recovery. I think it prudent to know what one has to deal with. I see it as minimally invasive surgery. The pvc 'sleeve' would have to stay because of the immense pressure created. You can use the same core hole and drop the probe. AFter the perimeters are marked i would bore in the middle of that 100sq. I dont know what the range of the probe is.
I think whatever technique that can be stomached would be fine. like Scuba says, the thing is to get in there now that you have the momentum. Does anyone else have any ideas?
I dont know all the particulars that need to be dealt with nor what or who Peg has at his disposal. But if nothing else there should be some type of verification to back up Dell's claim. I think Peg is trying to be efficent by isolating the object(s) and localising the recovery. I think it prudent to know what one has to deal with. I see it as minimally invasive surgery. The pvc 'sleeve' would have to stay because of the immense pressure created. You can use the same core hole and drop the probe. AFter the perimeters are marked i would bore in the middle of that 100sq. I dont know what the range of the probe is.
I think whatever technique that can be stomached would be fine. like Scuba says, the thing is to get in there now that you have the momentum. Does anyone else have any ideas?
- Thread starter
- #31
Another thought.
What if I were to use the PVC like a giant drill bit-somewhat like the Oil Field drillers use.
I can add some plastic auger blades to the out side of the PVC. Then cut a couple of notches on the top and then add my power source and use this whole thing as a DRILL BIT. Once I reach the estimted depth. can then insert the MD probe and it should tell me if the objects are there that I am looking for.
I do not need to remove the PVC. I can cut it off at the sand line and go to the house.
My Son In Law is a plumbing contractor and will furnish everything I will need-free. SO WHAT NOT.
PEG LEG
What if I were to use the PVC like a giant drill bit-somewhat like the Oil Field drillers use.
I can add some plastic auger blades to the out side of the PVC. Then cut a couple of notches on the top and then add my power source and use this whole thing as a DRILL BIT. Once I reach the estimted depth. can then insert the MD probe and it should tell me if the objects are there that I am looking for.
I do not need to remove the PVC. I can cut it off at the sand line and go to the house.
My Son In Law is a plumbing contractor and will furnish everything I will need-free. SO WHAT NOT.
PEG LEG
mikepiazza
Greenie
Peg Leg said:
And leave your trash buried in the sand. I hope not.
- Thread starter
- #33
No Mike I will not leave my trash there. Taking about trash the Park Service has driven a number of PVC into the creek area and just left them standing. There is a single sign attached to one piece of PVC and there is nothing on the rest. They are just there for no reason.
Peg Leg
Peg Leg
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