How much do people pay for silver

With the stock market falling 500 points I would wait till tuesday and wednesday to see what silver does. If it goes up and you are seriously thinking about selling your silver, call around. I called all the local pawn shops and one other LCS that I found that had moved closer to me (yeah!!) most were 35-37 for ASEs, with 37.50 for a 2012 was at the LCS that I normally go to. the other coin shop was offering ASEs for 35 with silver being at 32. I told them I didn't care about dates, just the silver content and they said they had some around 33-35, probably some beat up ones which hey, they are still silver.

Hugs and Smiles,
Garoulady
 

Remember that when a coin is worn it can lose some of its weight in silver.
I recommend bringing a small scale whenever buying coins.
I recently had a pretty big purchase of some walker halves. One of them was so worn that instead of weighing 12.5g it only weighed 11.5g. It can also help you spot a fake.
Also, why the hell would anyone circulate an ASE?! :icon_scratch:
 

Dark said:
Remember that when a coin is worn it can lose some of its weight in silver.
I recommend bringing a small scale whenever buying coins.
I recently had a pretty big purchase of some walker halves. One of them was so worn that instead of weighing 12.5g it only weighed 11.5g. It can also help you spot a fake.
Also, why the hell would anyone circulate an ASE?! :icon_scratch:

ASE's get circulated when grandpa dies and grandma cashes in the big dollar coin. Always ask for big dollar coins.
 

Depends on the coin. For bars/rounds I'd only pay a tiny premium over spot (15 cents/oz or so) for them. On the other hand, I'm somewhat of a gambler so I'll occasionally pay extra for mixed-date unsorted Barbers and get some better condition or better dates for silver scrap. Also I do some foreign silver mostly sight unseen at spot at 80% pure (for example, if I had 1 ounce of silver coins I'd pay .8 of the spot price per ounce) usually I lose or break even on the pure scrap (a good chunk of foreign silver is 50-70% pure) but I'll occasionally come ahead particularly if I get British or colonial sterling (usually pre-1920 is sterling, post-1920 is usually debased) or a lot of German coins (most of their stuff is 90% pure) but I usually come ahead numismatically because few coin/bullion shops know the key dates for Russian Rubles, Bolivian coins, what a rare variety on a British Florin is, etc. I do try to tell them to stick in mostly British stuff if they've got it and to avoid Mexican/Canadian coins, Mexican mostly because there are a lot of numismatically worthless, heavily debased "silver" coins (Pesos struck in 10% silver, 25 centavos coins struck in 35% silver, etc.) and Canadian because many dealers know the rare dates and cull them out. Plus, there really aren't that many rare dates/varieties for modern Canadian coinage (1920-present)
 

I usually don't buy coins if they are below good grade. I see some barbers that are so worn that you can just barely make out the lady. As for Silver ounces, I don't usually have to pay too much over spot. I got a 1993 ASE they said was beaten up but really it only had some dents along the edges. They gave it to me for spot price which at the time was 32, which was a whole lot cheaper than the 37.50 they wanted for the 2012 ASEs. I have found some foreign coins in the junk bins at this coin shop. I think they are around 80-90% silver. Worse comes to worse, I have thought about selling my war nickels, 40%, and foreign silver to get money to get pure buillion. But then again, I plan on waiting to see what the next couple of days bring the stock market and silver. at least here in michigan the gas prices went down. A whole 30 cents!! LOL.

Hugs and Smiles,
Garoulady
 

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