Homemade Electrolytic Chamber

Trying this question again. Reason I want to know is b/c I would like a cheap and inexpensive way to de-rust some iron objects...axe heads, garden implements, etc. (all dug). Help me out here. I've googled a few things, but quite frankly, I'd rather hear from someone who has actually built one and tried it.
 

I built one several years ago, for cleaning rust and grime off machine tools. I used a 30 gallon tub, and lined it with a cage of rebar. Filled it with water, mixing in a cup of washing soda. I used a battery charger as the power source. It worked great. I still have it, and use it occasionally. They're pretty simple. I've also done it with a simple plastic cup, and a tiny battery-eliminator that plugs in the wall. That works great for coins, and small items. For the anode, you can use any piece of metal, but stay away from anything stainless.....the remnants are a type of chromium you don't want to be around. I've used plain steel, copper, aluminum (though it gets covered quickly with an insulating layer, and quits working). This isn't rocket science. On my big one, you need a cage for the anode, so it removes rust from all over the item being cleaned. For a cup-sized unit, it doesn't matter so much...I've used a simple piece of 12 gauge copper wire...though it works best if the wire is long enough to bend across the bottom of the cup, and up the other side.
Jim
 

Thanks Jim! Your larger version is kinda what I was looking for. I have alot of plow points, turning plows, etc. that I'd like to work on. I know I could just try hitting it with emory stone or wire brush, but I worry about small cracks that I can't see under the corrosion. If I reduce the corrosion, I can see what's underneath and then begin my patchwork. I appreciate your input. It helps me with some ideas on a design. Thanks again!
 

One other question though. If there are cracks in the metal, to your knowledge, can electrolysis cause further damage?
 

lawdog601 said:
Trying this question again. Reason I want to know is b/c I would like a cheap and inexpensive way to de-rust some iron objects...axe heads, garden implements, etc. (all dug). Help me out here. I've googled a few things, but quite frankly, I'd rather hear from someone who has actually built one and tried it.
Click to expand...

I've made a couple but have never tried them on anything as big as an axe head but the procedure should be the same just on a larger scale. The ones I have made work quite well on old coins and jewelry.
You need to first find an old AC to DC battery charger you don't need anymore (cellphone charger, cordless tool charger ect.) leave the end that plugs into the 120V AC outlet alone, you need it to stay just like it is. Take the cord coming out of the transformer/rectifier and cut off the end that used to plug into whatever it charged. (hint: find a charger thats output is as high of DC voltage as you can find this info. is usually printed on the transformer itself the higher the voltage the faster it will clean) next separate the two wires by simply pulling them apart about a foot or so down. Go to the hardware store and buy two QUALITY alligator clips small enough to crimp onto the wires you just separated. I say quality meaning stainless steel or copper because the cheaper ones will simply corrode away with whatever you're trying to clean off of your digs. Next find a GLASS bowl just large enough to completely submerge your object/s into. At this point is where you get to start playing chemist. There are many different solutions you can come up with to do the electrolysis magic you just need to play around with different ones to find what works best on your particular objects. I like to use a lemon juice/table salt mixture myself.(the salt simply makes the solution more conductive). Find yourself an old stainless steel fork, spoon, or table knife. Make sure it's one that you don't care if you ever use again as it will be rendered useless after this procedure and make sure it's a good heavy one not a dollar store cheapy. After you have crimped the alligator clips onto the two wires simply attach one clip to the object to be cleaned and the other to the end of your stainless steel electrode. It doesn't matter which one you put on either item just make sure the one that is attached to the item to be cleaned is attached to a point that is relatively clean metal. You might even want to scratch a small area on it to make sure the clip is actually in contact with the bare metal and not the rust you're trying to remove. Make sure both alligator clips are securely fastened and place the item into the glass bowl filled with solution and push it to one side of the bowl and then on the opposite side of the bowl dip the stainless steel electrode into the solution trying to keep the alligator clip out of the solution and also MAKING SURE ELECTRODE DOES NOT TOUCH THE ITEM YOU'RE TRYING TO CLEAN! ( a lot of times you can use the alligator clip on the electrode as a prop over the top of the bowl to kinda secure it in place. I forgot to mention, if at all possible use a clear glass bowl this way you'll be able to see it working and also make sure it's working without having to move anything to look at it. With both electrode and item in question both in the bowl and you feel you have come up with your perfect solution it is now time to simply plug it into the wall outlet it's not necessary but highly advised that you use a GFCI protected outlet since you will be playing with electricity and water. Once you plug it it you should almost immediately start seeing a bunch of tiny bubbles forming and releasing from the object you're cleaning you'll also notice a bunch of tiny bubbles forming on your electrode. (the bubbles are a sign that the whole thing is working. Depending on your solution and how much output voltage your homemade electrolysis cleaner has and how dirty your object is within a couple of hours give or take you ought to start noticing that your solution has turned really dirty if not completely black. Depending on how dirty your object is this could take and hour or two or up to several days. Good luck and have fun with it. I hope this is the info you were looking for.
 

Silverfinder98...thank you for your input! Curious...I've heard some say use rock salt, as opposed to simple table salt. Any thoughts as to why? Or, in your experience, would it even matter?
 

lawdog601 said:
Silverfinder98...thank you for your input! Curious...I've heard some say use rock salt, as opposed to simple table salt. Any thoughts as to why? Or, in your experience, would it even matter?
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I really can't honsestly answer any technical questions about this. As a matter of fact I've never heard of not using stainless steel as someone mentioned earlier because that's all I've ever used since I was told how to do this. I don't really understand why it works it just works. Someone else mentioned something earlier I also didn't think about and that is the size of your charger. I'm not sure if a simple cordless tool charger or cell phone charger would put out enough DC voltage to do the job you're trying to do. Like I said I've only used it on coins and jewelry. It's just a fun project that kind of reminds me of being back in my high school science lab without the close supervision of my teacher keeping me from blowing myself up but I've managed so far. Just give it a try, tinker with it and see what works best for you. I just reccomend trying to find as much free stuff as you possibly can to use as parts until you get your technique perfected because you can easily get crazy with this and end up dumping all kinds of money into something that just flat out not work for what you're trying to do. After all, how much can an old axe head be worth? Certainly not the 100's of dollars you could potentially end up spending on this project if you're not careful. Good luck, I hope with all the suggestions from everyone you find a contraption that works good for you.
 

lawdog601 said:
Silverfinder98...thank you for your input! Curious...I've heard some say use rock salt, as opposed to simple table salt. Any thoughts as to why? Or, in your experience, would it even matter?
Click to expand...

As far as the salt goes, like I said, it's simply to make your solution more conductive. This is why metal detectors (at least some of them) run completely erratic in the water and in the wet sand of a saltwater beach. I'm not sure if the type of salt matters but judging by the way detectors act at beaches maybe I should reccomend using sea salt.
 

Roger that! Thanks again! The axe head isn't worth much, but I guess it's just a personal endeavor. I'm thinking on some of the larger objects; I'll try the larger version someone posted about earlier.
 

lawdog601 said:
Silverfinder98...thank you for your input! Curious...I've heard some say use rock salt, as opposed to simple table salt. Any thoughts as to why? Or, in your experience, would it even matter?
Click to expand...

Chemically, there isn't much of a difference. Table salt may have iodine additives, but it's still crushed and purified rock salt.
 

Jim in Idaho said:
.... For the anode, you can use any piece of metal, but stay away from anything stainless.....the remnants are a type of chromium you don't want to be around. ...
Jim
Click to expand...

Very important statement
 

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