Gold Aura IR Photography?

I suspect that most IR instructors are not up to speed on "Auras" and their significance. Typically the response is "if it aint in the textbook it dont exist"

As far as seeing anything below the surface goes, no one suggests that. The aura is captured above ground and indicates the presence of gold underground.

If you can hear a dog barking from outside a closed room you do not have to be inside the room with him to know he's there.
Poor analogy, but it's the same thing only different :tongue3:

Respectfully,
GG~
I don't think it's so much not having documentation to prove it as much as getting their reputation dirty. A lot of "scientists" are not willing to step outside the dogma box.

Ahaulil is correct the "night vision" goggles & scopes only amplify the available light. FLIR is working on different frequencys of the spectrum.

If you are having difficulty finding filters for the Cokin square filter holders check out the local camera store. Hoya has plastic sheet filters that'll fit with a little scraping with an exacto knife. Another use for the plastic filters is if you are having problems finding filters to fit your camera, but can find another you can remove the glass filter & use it to trace a pattern on the plastic Hoya filter to make your own.

If you save the corner scraps you can use them to cut small filters for cameras like Nikon CoolPix. You'll be able to hold them in place with two slivers of masking or scotch tape.

The good part is you can usually get two - three filters from one sheet that costs less than glass filters!
 

Very interesting PP. I'm not an authority on IR photography, but I do have some experience. In the mid-eighties, I took arial IR photos. (Film type). The interesting thing about them was that the gold deposits showed up as a white spot in the photo. Going by that experience, perhaps the spot above the pot and the spot in the desert photo might be an indication of a gold deposit, (or silver).

As far as your pot is concerned; though it's an excellent idea, you might want to have ONLY gold, or ONLY silver in the pot, until you are sure of which color is which for each metal.

All in all, I was wondering what make/model camera you are using and if possible, what program for the enhansment of the photos. I'm new at IR with digatal cameras, and though I have some promising photos, my program won't enhanse them like the ones I've seen in instructions.

Good luck with this technology and keep us informed on further developments.

Eagle

hey Eagle, can you tell me more about the film type IR photos? Can I do the same thing as you back in the 80s? Thanks
 

hey Eagle, can you tell me more about the film type IR photos? Can I do the same thing as you back in the 80s? Thanks
I can give you all of the basic information, but I no longer remember the film designation. And, unfortunately, I lost all of my journals in a fire several years ago. So, for the basics:

My partner and I hired a small plane to transport us over the site. This has to be a "high wing", to be able to take the photos, as you would be taking them straight down. (We found that a helicoptor does not work, as for some reason, the air turbulance neutralizes the effect)

We flew at an altitude of 1,000 feet, at a little above "stalling speed". As stated above, the photos were snapped while pointing the camera straight down. If I remember correctly, we were using a 45mm Nikon. But, it should work with any 45mm (film type) camera.

We sent the film to the manufacturer in NY to be developed, instructing them; (this is important to remember) NO COLOR CORRECTION. And for them to make the finished photos into slides.

When the finished photos (slides) were returned, we put them in a slide projector to view them on a screen. Then, we located each photo that had the blank (or white spot) on a topo map. Of course, with the advance of technology, I'm sure there are better ways of doing this today. Then, we went to the area and dredged the area where the white spot showed there should be gold. And, there was!!

There use to be several types of 45mm film on the market, but now, since I haven't kept up with that particular technology, I have no idea what might be available. Especially since digital cameras are so popular.

Incidently, I didn't develope this myself. If you can find an early 1985 California Mining Journal, you would find an advertisement in it. Basically it said; I can locate a mass of gold equal to 12 quarters (.25 cent pieces) beneath up to 12 foot of overburden. And, as we found out, the guy wasn't lying. Anyway, that's how I originally got the nominclature of the film and other info. We tried it out a couple of times after that and the results were always positive. Afterwards, my partner died of cancer, then my wife passed away and I kinda lost interest in a lot of things for a few years.

Anyway, I think I've covered everything. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask.

Eagle

Oops, I need to clarify one thing; That altitude of 1,000 feet is above the ground, NOT ABOVE SEA-LEVEL.
 

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Experimenting with metals auras

Dear sir.
I m Nelson from Santiago, Chile SA.
Since 1982 i starter to join metal detecting hobbie and today with some years of expirence i had tried diferents kind s of metal detectors and also long range detetors. Today i m ready to experiemnt with gold auras has david Villanueva pointed on his book.
My equipments is a canon 350D, a 720nm IR filter, fitted to a 300 mm sigma lent.
Today i m mounted my camera on a tripod and took a few pictures just on my garden were i know there are some metals spreed under my grass after my home was build. All in all after i took the pictures with diferent settings on my camera i process the pictures with arcsoft photostudio and i got the results i m posting here. Then i check this with my metal detector and gave me what i think is a match of what my camera was showing, because i got a signal on the spots that are blue on the picture and also if you look cloe to the upper left side of the picture, you will see something like an aure that is not 100% on the center of the picture. However, and appart of the metals that i know are undergrouind on my yard, there are also two copper water pipes.
The best settings of my camera were, ISO 400, speed 125, and 4.6 apperture of my lent.
Sorry for my english, but i think is important to share my first expiriencies with metals auras.
Soon i will get more pictures and post it here.
Best regards
Nelson

I can give you all of the basic information, but I no longer remember the film designation. And, unfortunately, I lost all of my journals in a fire several years ago. So, for the basics:

My partner and I hired a small plane to transport us over the site. This has to be a "high wing", to be able to take the photos, as you would be taking them straight down. (We found that a helicoptor does not work, as for some reason, the air turbulance neutralizes the effect)

We flew at an altitude of 1,000 feet, at a little above "stalling speed". As stated above, the photos were snapped while pointing the camera straight down. If I remember correctly, we were using a 45mm Nikon. But, it should work with any 45mm (film type) camera.

We sent the film to the manufacturer in NY to be developed, instructing them; (this is important to remember) NO COLOR CORRECTION. And for them to make the finished photos into slides.

When the finished photos (slides) were returned, we put them in a slide projector to view them on a screen. Then, we located each photo that had the blank (or white spot) on a topo map. Of course, with the advance of technology, I'm sure there are better ways of doing this today. Then, we went to the area and dredged the area where the white spot showed there should be gold. And, there was!!

There use to be several types of 45mm film on the market, but now, since I haven't kept up with that particular technology, I have no idea what might be available. Especially since digital cameras are so popular.

Incidently, I didn't develope this myself. If you can find an early 1985 California Mining Journal, you would find an advertisement in it. Basically it said; I can locate a mass of gold equal to 12 quarters (.25 cent pieces) beneath up to 12 foot of overburden. And, as we found out, the guy wasn't lying. Anyway, that's how I originally got the nominclature of the film and other info. We tried it out a couple of times after that and the results were always positive. Afterwards, my partner died of cancer, then my wife passed away and I kinda lost interest in a lot of things for a few years.

Anyway, I think I've covered everything. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask.

Eagle

Oops, I need to clarify one thing; That altitude of 1,000 feet is above the ground, NOT ABOVE SEA-LEVEL.
 

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Eagle,

First off, my condolences for your loss.

I'd like to know more about this. Does it work in wet humid areas? Swamps and such?

Has anyone published a study, that you know of, showing the relationship, or differences, between the old wet film produced images verses the digitally produced images?

Both can be adjusted to filter specific portions of the IR spectrum, what about 820nm, digitally?

Can you filter post image for the wavelength, or must you only capture the wavelength initially?

Thanks in advance
 

Eagle,

First off, my condolences for your loss.

I'd like to know more about this. Does it work in wet humid areas? Swamps and such?

Has anyone published a study, that you know of, showing the relationship, or differences, between the old wet film produced images verses the digitally produced images?

Both can be adjusted to filter specific portions of the IR spectrum, what about 820nm, digitally?

Can you filter post image for the wavelength, or must you only capture the wavelength initially?

Thanks in advance
It would work in swamps and/or humid areas. We were taking pictures of a river and it showed deposits of gold in 5+ feet of water. As for the studies, I haven't run across any. I'm just barely started in digital work, so I don't have a definitive answer for that yet. I have tried several IR lenses and found the only one to give readable results is the 720nm. That is also what David Villanueva recommended. If you're asking if you could take photos and then process them to see the aura, I don't think so. With the correct IR film, the process is done in the act of taking the photo. When the film is developed (with no color correction), by projecting the slides, you won't see an aura per se, what you will see is a white spot where the cache or gold deposit is.
We proved this out by dredging in areas that really looked good, but the photos didn't show any anomallies and found no gold. Then we dredged the areas that showed white on the film, and came home with nuggets that were up to 2 oz, but, I'm not sure how well it would work with silver as my prospecting experiences have always been centered on gold.

I hope this helps a bit.

Eagle
 

IR Video

Any luck on the IR endeavor? Ive been messing around with a few cameras converting them (boy those screws are tiny) and killed one ;)

Another good question would be; will IR video show metal deposits? I have a elcheapo HD dash cam I converted by removing the filter. Seems to be working. I buried some objects in the yard and videoed them but ran into a tech issue.
Ill end up just looking at the vids on my tv through the HDMI cable (when its found). The files wont come off this cheap dash cam right now.
 

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For the life of me I can not see why everyone is using all of this IR Film and expensive cameras. Google Earth works just fine as it is already IR. Go back to the time before 911 and the film used was IR. You can zoom within a few hundred feet of the ground, look from the SW to the NE and you will be able to see where treasure has been buried.
 

How do you switch it from normal view to ir? By simply sliding it to before 2001? The color appears the same.
 

You have to look from the left bottom of the photo to top right of the photo while trying to dull out the light. It works.
 

I don't get these instructions.
It's a toggle switch at the left and right corners?
 

thats my middle name " persistance" .... and sometimes get well told to get off the computer or a book and get out and clean up the place
 

You're going to have to take several pictures then analyze what was indicated to get an idea of what your equipment is telling you. Take your pictures, dig to see what's causing the response then record it in a notebook. Remember IR THing is going to get you in a general area, you'll still have to pinpoint it down to what's causing the auras. Just as everything in detecting you need enough time using the machine / detector to get a good handle on what it's telling you. And the most important element - Research! As you use the system more and more & accumulate your notes things will start to make sense.
Nailed it
 

i heard that there is IR thermometer software that people use satellite imagine to anylize heat remotely ... anyone know person that doing it ?
 

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