Excalibur II first dive and depth test before bewitched by OBN @

[frogmaster-riviera]

Hi all,

Minelab Excalibur scuba dive photos and video

Just have received my new Minelab Excalibur II and before loosing my warranty on it, I just wanted to make sure it was fully functional before beeing remastered by OBN, the wizard of Excalibur

I've selected a new diving site where I first have to locate some pieces of wood, potteries and iron on the seabed which are proof of shipwreck a loooong time ago...

All my tanks have been sent to the yearly certification, so I'm diving with a friend "oldy" regular air mix tank which is not so good for this depth.


https://youtu.be/pOQPU41pTlI

I've uses a copyright music, so can't see from Germany and from certain devices, computer =OK

0-63m (0-206ft) as quick as possible to stay as much as I can looking for clues of +2000 years old shipwreck..

Even when detecting underwater, I won't forget my Minelab cap
Sorry for the red nose... just made a jump of nearly 210ft in a very limited time period and you can have blood coming out from your nose, something usual.

Heading to potential sites of interest, Scuba detection is similar to land relic prospection..it takes time and need some luck

Trying to read the currents and searching for clues (pottery, irons, wood) of shipwrecks @ approx -65m (213ft)

Look at the Moray fish on the left of the image....

Time goes very fast underwater, I consume nearly 6x more air at this depth then i will on surface.....

My diving computer starts to beep but I couldn't hear it (metal detection...) and I only have a few minutes minutes left in my crappy tank (!)

This is a good shot of a stupid man realizing he is in deep SxxT

Heading quickly to the surface (not too fast..) and still a long way to go ... 2 major deco stops to do. Only air remaining for the deepest one (!)

PS: I only did the first deco step, surfaced and took a spare pony air tank to accomplish my long final deco...did go to the hospital in emergency for checking and analysing the data of my diving computer. Thanks god everythings ok

This not the good example to follow, I am an experienced diver and I was lucky today...can't have luck all the time.


The next step for upgrading my Excalibur II into an Excalibur IIS

- Changing the end caps by OBNs remastered ones
- Remote PP latching mod with led light in All Metal position
- Hot swappable / Removable coil even during underwater prospection
- Use of Bone Phone hearphone, can be placed under the diving suite
- Lipo battery pack with capacity led
- Change the decals for those ones :

 

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[frogmaster-riviera]

I was going to suggest we all met at my place - but my stuntman days are over as far as deep dives with little time for deco time goes
Too close to the edge for me!!
Stay safe!

I sometime forget that I'm getting old .... did a little party the night before, only sleep a few hours because I was not suppose to dive.... Phone call at 8AM "Hey Froggy, take a look at the sea this morning, come and have a spin!"

I've unboxed the Excal in 5 minutes (so many box rubbish, amazing) and charged the battery on the boat. The tank wasn't fully filled (200Bars and not 230bars).... diving mate with different Gaz Mix so couldn't share, >60m depth Narcozis effects... and there you have the perfect cocktail for an accident.

Hopefully all my diving mates are professional divers (PADI instructors, UW photographers or off-shore divers) so most situations can be handled smoothly with calm and serenity.... which is not always the case with my wife

 

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[Rivers rat]

I love the part with the wife



RR

 

[frogmaster-riviera]

I love the part with the wife



RR

had my wife was upset all day (!) = "the longest and the most painful deco phase"

When I go scuba detecting, she knows I will always come back on time (air tank limitation) ... land prospection is an other story.......

 

[Rivers rat]

Yes but something you do Amphibians session starting in the deep sea then ending up in land.......The NAVY SEAL of Detecting and she knows as well she just doesnt tell you


RR

 

[Rivers rat]

Nice decal!!!!!!!


RR

 

[TheSleeper]

Yep Spleeper, your right!

With OBN we are implementing an hot swappable coil connector to be able to change coil underwater. Maybe there is a need to put the plug next to the coil, it'll be easier to change it on the field... Any idear?

Well Froggy, anytime you break open a connection, per say to change coils the contacts are going to get wet, (not a good thing to do) surfacing would be hard and time consuming. All I can think of at the moment is a water proof (down to 250") sealed box with a switch on top, both coils hard wired inside it, to switch coils you would flip the switch and change out the coils on the stem. Similar to Sunray's probe setup, instead though two coils are wired in, not a coil and probe. Unless that's what your looking for ie: being able to switch between a coil and a probe, if that's what you desire then a copy of sunrays probe arrangement except all water proof with a water proof control box.

If you want to switch out different size coils the extra coil would still be attached to the Excal adding its weight to the unit, but since your underwater using a neutral buoyant coil wouldn't add that much weight. With this setup you could have multiple coils connected and ready to use, although you might be mistaken for an octopus with all the coils and wires floating around.

Only draw back to this is anytime you install a switch you add impedance, so performance of your Excal may suffer.

You have one of the best helping you so I'm sure he can figure it out for you.

 

[frogmaster-riviera]

Thanks for your input. Fischer Connectors is building waterproof down to 3000ft subermisble HOT swappable connectors. I'm now looking for the correct postion of the plug to be able to change them easily without spending too much time. Having a plug on the main pod is a good idear, but you know the problem of the wiring path...

http://www.fischerconnectors.com/sites/default/files/specifications/ultimate_orginal_series_technical_specifications_1.7_jul12_3.pdf

 

[TheSleeper]

Froggy, I'm not sure I am following you here.
A lot of connectors are hot swappable, and yes they are also water proof to xxx feet, but when they state hot swappable they are referring to being able to hot swap in a water free environment ie: air, non conductive medium.
A lot of connectors can be swapped under water, but you create a problem doing so, water.
1. Trying to connect two IP68/69 or higher connectors together under water (male into a female) you will create hydrostatic lock due to the water inside the female connector, the O-rings inside the connector will not allow the water to escape the female housing as your trying to force the male connector inside it, hence hydro static lock.
2. When you disconnect the two shells, water egresses into each shell so when you re-connect it, if you can remove the water from the female socket to allow the male to seat fully, all your pins and pin contacts are wet with salt water, trace elements will reside inside the female connector and when you turn it back on you will get a short.

To do a hot swap configuration the connectors have to remain dry and free of water, or else it would be like unscrewing your battery connector, allowing the contacts on the male and female side to get wet, then re-connecting it to the main housing and turning it on, it will short. Unless I am really missing something here I see no way to disconnect one coil at the connector IP68/69, swap coils then re-connect the new coil and keep everything dry.

Possibly the only other way I see to do this (other than a sealed box) is for you to take a plastic bag down with you, fill it with air from your regulator to force the water out creating a air chamber, sticking the connectors up inside the bag and doing the disconnect, re-connect there. Even then I think you might get some salt water on the pins and create a short or at the very least making the Excal unstable, like if the battery contacts get wet from the battery seal not sealing good.

I know OBN is a genius with the Excals, if he can figure out a way to do this I sure would like to hear about it.

 

[Sir Gala Clad]

An easier alternative to implement would be to mount a search coil (short shaft(s)) on each end and use a waterproof remote switch (with LED light) to the search coil you need. As you are sweeping the search coil underwater, this should be doable as long as the detector is properly balanced at midpoint (like a teeter totter), with a short offset handle (like a hand scoop).


Hope is not an option, your diving buddies, need to be highly disciplined with the same objective , and at minimum as skilled as you are, with
the equipment that you are using. it is better to rely on careful planning and working as a team to keep you out of harms way. Calmness and serenity are
hard to achieve when you or your partner(s) are in serious trouble such as bad air, embolish, nitrogen narcosis.

In aviation, there is a saying: "There are Old Pilots and there are Bold Pilots but there are No Old Bold Pilots" .
Take care fellow diver and treasure hunter, keep your insurance policies up to date and fully paid (to keep the wife happy) , and thanx for sharing your adventure(s).


Hopefully all my diving mates are professional divers (PADI instructors, UW photographers or off-shore divers) so most situations can be handled smoothly with calm and serenity.... which is not always the case with my wife.

Yep Spleeper, your right!

With OBN we are implementing an hot swappable coil connector to be able to change coil underwater. Maybe there is a need to put the plug next to the coil, it'll be easier to change it on the field... Any idear?

 

[frogmaster-riviera]

Dear Sir Gala CLad,

Thanks for your post.

Detection is not really a team hobby in the sense of remaining grouped. It is the case on land, it is even worth underwater because we can't shout to quickly find each other. I only know one scuba diver detectortist, a retired cost guard diver but he is only interrested about underwater beach detection.... So I dive almost on my own most of the time. Places where I'm prospecting have no intrest for other divers.

You are perfectly right Sir Gala Clad, you know what your are talking about for sure. Same with UW photographers, when you dive with them it's boring, they can stand in front of seaweed during an hour trying to fine tune there lights... underwater detection is almost the same for mates...

When I dive alone (95% of time), I rarely dive under 40M (110ft) and use a semi-close rebreather with nitrox to avoid deco stops; in case of emergency I can surface without breathing easily and don't worry about deco. 2 times per year, I enjoy to attend "emergency situation lessons" where you are faced to various situtations below 30m (90ft), it's a way for me to evaluate my physical condition. The only issue with semin close rebreather is NITROX, so max 110-120ft down...and the Med sea is DEEP(!)

Concerning insurance... you touch the point. Basic insurance covers every dive, wathever the situation (alone, depth etc...) BUT when you are looking for extra coverage prices are REALLY HIGH and cost me a few Excaliburs per year to keep my wife & family "happy".

I've been a few time to the hospital and spend some time in Hyperbaric chamber during my 3 years of military service, trust me these experiences are "print into my brain" and I do take care...

At the end of the day, having a plane in your hand or scuba diving is almost the same: you have your life in your hand and whatever the licences, degree you can have, you are the master of the your safty.

Hope is not an option, your diving buddies, need to be highly disciplined with the same objective , and at minimum as skilled as you are, with
the equipment that you are using. it is better to rely on careful planning and working as a team to keep you out of harms way. Calmness and serenity are
hard to achieve when you or your partner(s) are in serious trouble such as bad air, embolish, nitrogen narcosis.

In aviation, there is a saying: "There are Old Pilots and there are Bold Pilots but there are No Old Bold Pilots" .
Take care fellow diver and treasure hunter, keep your insurance policies up to date and fully paid (to keep the wife happy) , and thanx for sharing your adventure(s).

 

[RustyGold]

Killer pictures! Killer post! Thanks for the safety reminder and glad you're ok!

 

[frogmaster-riviera]

Fischer Connector are based in Switzerland and they are "sponsoring" in a way my hobby to promote their new underwater connectors. I will take some nice shots for them of scuba detection because it's a good way for them to promote their ROV products. They have a range of connectors that are designed to be plug/unplugged underwater till 1000ft down. It's common for ROV applications. I'll visit the factory by the end of this month and meet engineers to see what can be done in a reasonable budget. I'm also looking for a similar solution for a prototype of pulse induction detector that I will get this summer I hope.

Still not sure if underwater coil swapping is a good option. With my semi closed rebrether I can remain around 2H down and I have to face to such a variety of fields that been able to swap from a 15"WOT a 10" and sometimes a 8" coil will be a great add value.

YES, OBN is working hard on the project. He has tested the bone phone from AMRON (underwater communication) and is actually looking for internal connectors for the pod. My visit to Fischer connector factory at the end of this month will probably open new doors, I will keep you updated.

To answer to Sir Gala Clad, I'm not sure that having a double coil detector (one on each end) is a good idear. Depending of the coil size, but having a 15" coil at the back of your arm don't seduces me; but it's a realistic option and can be easily implemented

FYI information: underwater switch are hard to find. IP 68/69 are only for low depth! I have found real underwater switches but most of them are designed for ROV or deep dives so their size is similar to the half of the battery pod of the Excalibur

Any input will welcom on this issue...

Froggy, I'm not sure I am following you here.
A lot of connectors are hot swappable, and yes they are also water proof to xxx feet, but when they state hot swappable they are referring to being able to hot swap in a water free environment ie: air, non conductive medium.
A lot of connectors can be swapped under water, but you create a problem doing so, water.
1. Trying to connect two IP68/69 or higher connectors together under water (male into a female) you will create hydrostatic lock due to the water inside the female connector, the O-rings inside the connector will not allow the water to escape the female housing as your trying to force the male connector inside it, hence hydro static lock.
2. When you disconnect the two shells, water egresses into each shell so when you re-connect it, if you can remove the water from the female socket to allow the male to seat fully, all your pins and pin contacts are wet with salt water, trace elements will reside inside the female connector and when you turn it back on you will get a short.

To do a hot swap configuration the connectors have to remain dry and free of water, or else it would be like unscrewing your battery connector, allowing the contacts on the male and female side to get wet, then re-connecting it to the main housing and turning it on, it will short. Unless I am really missing something here I see no way to disconnect one coil at the connector IP68/69, swap coils then re-connect the new coil and keep everything dry.

Possibly the only other way I see to do this (other than a sealed box) is for you to take a plastic bag down with you, fill it with air from your regulator to force the water out creating a air chamber, sticking the connectors up inside the bag and doing the disconnect, re-connect there. Even then I think you might get some salt water on the pins and create a short or at the very least making the Excal unstable, like if the battery contacts get wet from the battery seal not sealing good.

I know OBN is a genius with the Excals, if he can figure out a way to do this I sure would like to hear about it.

 

[dewcon4414]

Interesting thought about switches affecting performance. Wonder what gain you might get from NOT using a disc/PP switch on the Xcal? Might there be some difference if you just wanted a hot disc machine?

 

[frogmaster-riviera]

Good question. If I was only using the Excal in PP mode, I will simply use my Pulse Induction detector like the Aquascan (Aquapulse). I like the little disci of excals because I use it on heavy trash areas.

I HATE the knobb feeling of the Excalibur when you turn them, I'm always woundering if I"m going to break them...

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

Reasons for the pinpoint mod. You get more depth in all metal, when you hit a target you switch to disc to see if you get a tone or null, if you get neither you continue to dig till you get either a null or discrimination tone. If its a null you move on after checking null from multiple directions, if its a tone then decide if its a tone your going to dig.

I have found gold rings in pinpoint mode that gave no tone in disc mode...

Basically your using the Excal with the reverse discrimination mods as a dual machine. It is a combination of PI and Minelab BBS multi-freq.......

 

[TheSleeper]

Interesting thought about switches affecting performance. Wonder what gain you might get from NOT using a disc/PP switch on the Xcal? Might there be some difference if you just wanted a hot disc machine?

Not so much the switch dew, its the connections, anytime you splice in a connector onto the coil wire ie: to be able to change coils, you add a slight amount of resistance into the circuit thus reducing its performance( the least I found was by using gold connectors and soldering them onto the wires instead of crimping). Think it was me and Treasure Hunter that discussed it awhile ago pertaining to inline connectors on the Excals, that was one of the reasons he went to hard wired.

In a sense you are correct though, the water proof box I described earlier to froggy, would add resistance due to its nature ie: connectors and an external switch inside the box. I do not believe the switch inside the Excals body effects it any as it is mounted on the main board.

 

[TheSleeper]

Reasons for the pinpoint mod. You get more depth in all metal, when you hit a target you switch to disc to see if you get a tone or null, if you get neither you continue to dig till you get either a null or discrimination tone. If its a null you move on after checking null from multiple directions, if its a tone then decide if its a tone your going to dig.

I have found gold rings in pinpoint mode that gave no tone in disc mode...

Basically your using the Excal with the reverse discrimination mods as a dual machine. It is a combination of PI and Minelab BBS multi-freq.......

Exactly TH'r, that's the beauty of the Excal and its strength.

Hey what happened to your like button TH, mods not allowed to be liked anymore?

Ok I dislike you then LOL

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

Not so much the switch dew, its the connections, anytime you splice in a connector onto the coil wire ie: to be able to change coils, you add a slight amount of resistance into the circuit thus reducing its performance( the least I found was by using gold connectors and soldering them onto the wires instead of crimping). Think it was me and Treasure Hunter that discussed it awhile ago pertaining to inline connectors on the Excals, that was one of the reasons he went to hard wired.

In a sense you are correct though, the water proof box I described earlier to froggy, would add resistance due to its nature ie: connectors and an external switch inside the box. I do not believe the switch inside the Excals body effects it any as it is mounted on the main board.

Correct sleeper, it is a remote switch hardwired into controls to switch between pinpoint and discriminate.. Does not affect depth or performance. I switched and have coil hardwired to motherboard now...

 

[Sir Gala Clad]

I would use an 8 inch circular or smaller DD search coil for diving to minimize drag.
Ideally the detector would have two switchable modes using the same search coil.
1) A broad band multi frequency mode (VLF and LF) balanced induction mode for discrimination and target seperation.
2) and a Pulse Induction Mode (PI) for maximum depth.

If you need to cover more surface area an 8 inch DD eliptical coil, like a joey coil used in the gold fields, could be used to cover more surface area with a slight reduction in detection depth, approx 2 1nch and an increase in drag, which would still have good target seperation.

Unfortunately, I do not know of any manufactured detectors, commercially available with this capability.

An alternative till such a detector is available would be to mount a CTX 3030 in a larger cylindrical water proof housing like that used for undewater cameras. The advantage of this detector is that you could hear everything under the coil and be able to identify it by it's tone if you used it with the screen wide open (no discrimination) in the combined profile (FE/CO). A low tone could be used to identify iron (sounds like a grunt) , a higher frequency tone to identify low conductors, an even higher pitch tone to identify mid tones , and the the highest pitch tones to identify high conductors.

Most likely major surgery woulld be required so that the CTX 3030 could be housed in a cylndrical water proof housing such as replacing the rigid arm for the visual display with a flexible one so that it could be housed parallel to the upper control shaft which would have to be shortened to fit in the water proof housing.

later, You might be able to mount a waterproof membrane so that you could press the buttons, later to switch modes and discrimination underwater,
but this would be problematic.
A water proof connector or clamshell would be required for the head phones.

Fischer Connector are based in Switzerland and they are "sponsoring" in a way my hobby to promote their new underwater connectors. I will take some nice shots for them of scuba detection because it's a good way for them to promote their ROV products. They have a range of connectors that are designed to be plug/unplugged underwater till 1000ft down. It's common for ROV applications. I'll visit the factory by the end of this month and meet engineers to see what can be done in a reasonable budget. I'm also looking for a similar solution for a prototype of pulse induction detector that I will get this summer I hope.

Still not sure if underwater coil swapping is a good option. With my semi closed rebrether I can remain around 2H down and I have to face to such a variety of fields that been able to swap from a 15"WOT a 10" and sometimes a 8" coil will be a great add value.

YES, OBN is working hard on the project. He has tested the bone phone from AMRON (underwater communication) and is actually looking for internal connectors for the pod. My visit to Fischer connector factory at the end of this month will probably open new doors, I will keep you updated.

To answer to Sir Gala Clad, I'm not sure that having a double coil detector (one on each end) is a good idear. Depending of the coil size, but having a 15" coil at the back of your arm don't seduces me; but it's a realistic option and can be easily implemented

FYI information: underwater switch are hard to find. IP 68/69 are only for low depth! I have found real underwater switches but most of them are designed for ROV or deep dives so their size is similar to the half of the battery pod of the Excalibur

Any input will welcom on this issue...

 

[Sir Gala Clad]

As your bottom time is so limited, wouldn't it be better to tow a sensor from a boat, or use a mangetic anomoly detector from
the surface, till you find a target to explore?