Civil war sword?

confederate83

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Feb 9, 2013
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sweet springs missouri
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Hope I am measuring correctly best I can tell it's 32.5 but the tip has about a quarter inch missing so 32 3/4 if I'm measuring right
 

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You're doing it right. When people talk about the "length"of a saber blade, what they are actually talking about is the "reach" of the blade from guard to tip. Obviously if you followed the curve of the blade the measurement would be a lot longer, which is the advantage of a curved blade, more cutting surface for the same length of reach than a straight blade. Yours being over 32 inches rules out the English saber, and makes it seem more likely to be the Prussian accounting for the loss of the tip. Personally I think it's a beautiful find and something I'd be proud to display.
 

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I would set it out in the sun and let it get good and hot, then give it a light coat of gun oil from a spray bottle. Probably do that a few times and the oil will stabilize it and keep it from rusting any more.
 

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I'm curious about the shape of the tab that CC Hunter pointed out, does it look to have been made that way? Or could that shape have been caused by damage and/or rust? When I look at it I see a Prussian Model of 1811 Heavy Saber, the shape of the grip, and the curve of the blade seem right on for it.


The pin hole on the tab is centered more within the smaller semi-circle, than with the wider shoulder where it extends from the back-strap (if in fact this steel tab is degraded from rust or other damage, the pin hole should still be centered with the full tab width at the shoulder, to match either the English Model 1796, or Prussian Model 1811). Both sides of the handle show this feature, although granted one is more damaged from rust and elements. From what my eyes are seeing, the only logical explanation is that this is actually a manufactured feature.

The Prussian Model of 1811 Heavy Saber is a close match in many details. However, I have noticed that all the Prussian and German sabers and swords have a much more rounded shield shape at the quillon, compared with the more angular shield on this excavated example, as circled in red in the photo below. Taking into account these differences, I believe we still do not have an exact match to positively identify this artifact.

CC Hunter
 

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Well I suppose that is possible I see your point seems that a sword expert would be handy I do however think we are getting close
 

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How should I preserve it from further rusting

WD 40 gets under rust and stops further oxidation. After WD pretty much dries out I'd coat it with light gun oil. Here is a hint that is use on antique guns to remove rust. Remember on antique guns patina is everything, and removing patina can really shoot the value down. If you use light gun oil, then scrape the rust with a sharp edge of a brass scraper. I use the mouth of an empty 30 - 06 brass. This will remove excess rust without ruining the patina.
 

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