Bill Hays US Vintage Two Box Detector

Spyguy. Thank you very much for replying with this great information. Even though I have never spoken to either I agree with you that both Dr Gerhart Fisher and Bill Hays were both pioneers of the hobby, and that Dr Fisher was more successful commercially and scientifically. But based upon my research you do have to factor in the significant age difference between the two individuals. Dr fisher was 32 when he started in electronics, Bill Hays was 10 when he started.
Of course the Second World War also was a factor. Dr fisher was engaged in important scientific work in the field of electronics and direction finding for the US Military/ Air Force. Bill Hays may have falsified his age and joined the Navy , serving aboard the USS Storm King if the information that I have received is correct.
So maybe the different life paths had some influence on their outcomes ....who knows.
I am very lucky to come upon this vintage machine and with the help of a skilled electronics engineer to get it working again.
I will take things slowly and over the course of a few years PG will get to know the machine.
Here in Derbyshire the main use for this machine would be to locate non scattered caches of medieval silver/ gold hammered coins.
spyguy please can I ask you can you remember with your 2B mega explorer, did it come with a user manual and was it supplied with more than three rods for deeper searching. Once again thank you for your comments
My Hays 2-B Mega Explorer from Kellyco did have a manual. Had I not sold it all those years back I would post pics here. It also came with two factory installed Duracell batteries. (always use Alkaline vs. carbon zinc batteries). There were no extra extension rods beyond the three that came with the machine. You could of course improvise your own very easily though. With the standard three rods you've basically just created a 4-foot wide "search coil" that punches deep into the ground with a parabola shaped signal.
Basically after you've assembled it all you need to do is pull both switches out on the receiver and transmitter to the "on" position. Then make sure the receiver button is set to "normal" or "low". The "high" setting on there is for conductive tracing. For example: when you are trying to trace the length of a pipe in the ground you place the transmitter at one end and then walk away with the receiver in your hand until the sound disappears. This method can also be used when you're tracing veins of gold or silver underground.
Next, and this is important: turn the knob on the receiver marked with an "A" counter-clockwise until the continuous sound just starts to disappear with a slight reading on the needle. This is called your "null" and signifies that the machine is now tuned to start finding metal. Be sure to hold it level while you are doing this and keep in mind when elevation changes you will get false positives until you retune.... It is meant to be used at the same level it was tuned at and will go out of tune when you lower or raise the machine. A big area of very flat land is ideal for working with it.
Beyond the usual soil considerations (there is no ground elimination with it) you can expect the following in terms of depth:
-A coffee can sized object at about 2 feet down. (it won't pick up anything smaller)
-A chest of coins probably around 6-8 feet down.
-A car at about 15-20 feet down.
I see from your pics above you have that metal extender handle which is a big help in maximizing your depth! I wish I had one of those for my Fisher Gemini 2 because I have to use one of those nylon inch-wide cords which causes a lot of shift and falsing while walking with it. Basically to pinpoint with it (when you get a raise in sound and the needle jumps) just stop and mark the ground with your heel from one direction then from the opposite direction. Then do the same thing from side to side. Obviously the size of the object will be traced by sound so you can get an idea how big your target is.
Hope all this helps....
HH
-spyguy
 

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