Best mounting adhesive for artifact boards

[Force_of_Iron]

I've used clear silicone for years. Its completely unreactive, strong and can generally be rubbed off leaving nary a trace.

However, every time the topic comes up nobody mentions it as an adhesive to use. Am I missing something?

 

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[southfork]

Back in the day, and back in the day is before my time, collectors often glued points to boards, or just as commonly, wired points onto wooden or cardboard boards. The latter technique could, and often did, lead to damaging the points. I have some older wire-on felt covered cardboard frames. I leave those as they are, they are mostly all field grade stuff anyway. I use wooden frames and riker mounts. Now, one thing you may often run into, I know I do, is points are of varying thickness, and so very thin points can slide around. Obviously you can create a thicker background to compensate. I like to keep everything from the same site in the same frame.

Same problem I have most of my cases are sight frames I make my own cases and display flat . I double up on the foam or use thicker material but when upright a few always move and a chance of damage . I waiting for the glass to crack from the pressure even though I use heavy duty glass .

 

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[southfork]

These are glued to the glass with some sort of clear epoxy decided to just remove the black background . And display against a window .

 

[Force_of_Iron]

These are glued to the glass with some sort of clear epoxy decided to just remove the black background . And display against a window .

that's pretty cool.

What I think I'm hearing is that there is no sure answer. It depends on what you want and why you are collecting in the first place. Pretty much everyone draws the line at damaging the artifacts, wire. However, everything else is just every ones ideal on how they can properly store/ display them respectfully.

What I think I have drawn from this about mounting is:

I will use glue on smaller stones. I believe that using it on larger stones will potentially be a mess and difficult to set. Once they are on they may be difficult to dislodge without damaging them.

For the larger stones I will still use the silicone so I can easily cut them loose from the board if I ever need to. It sets quickly and you can just use thick drops.

Textured and porous stones should stay with the Riker and display case like the Reaper had so they don't absorb any of the adhesives and discolor.

Good information. Thanks

 

[fyrffytr1]

I don't like the look of white foam either so I tried something today. I cut a piece of 1" thick open cell foam the same size as the glass in a display case I bought from Hobby Lobby. I took the back off and removed the thin foam padding. I got some longer screws and with the new foam in place I screwed the backer board back on until it was flush with the back edge of the frame. I put the foam in from the front and closed the frame to make sure it would. Then, I took some .69 cal and .58 cal Minie balls and put them in the frame. Closed it up and nothing moved.
Then I dyed the foam black with Rit dye and hung it out to dry. That is as far as I have gone. I don't know if the dye will come off but I have some scrap pieces and brokes that I will test. I'll let you know the results.
And, after doing all that I looked online and found black foam in different thicknesses so if the dye doesn't work I will get some already colored off the internet.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Home-Dec...ow-Front-Load-Display-Case---8"-x-10"/p/38601

 

[Trezurehunter]

I use locking cases like Grim Reaper shows. I've never had a problem with anything moving. You can always add another base of foam if you need to, to take up the air gag difference. I also use these same case for my metal detecting finds.