Bazooka Highbanker Kits

Going crazy here waiting for these highbanker kits like a kid trying to catch the icecream truck
 

Im wondering if an electric pump would work like the guys use on their regular sluices for recirculating for places with no motorized equipment or late nights in the shop
 

yotaboy86 said:
Im wondering if an electric pump would work like the guys use on their regular sluices for recirculating for places with no motorized equipment or late nights in the shop
Click to expand...

I'll let you know soon as I clear the deck of another couple projects on the late night in the shop anyway hehe.
Word has it I have a friend of a friend who backs right to a creek in their backyard.. we may spend a few days working in extension cord range ;)
 

I got a Intex Krystal Clear model 637R / 56637E 1,000-Gallon swimming pool pump I'm going to try on it. Hope that's enough wa - wa ROFL!
 

come on prospector 70 give us some idea's man...........I've been racking my brain on the best set up I've been trying to come up with a system for my 30" sniper I have a 1500 gpm electric pump would like to try to baffle the back with one main line going to it and get overflow to the top any idea's on what to use for material? sheet metal, wood................?
 

Sure Vaquero!

What you want is a boot on the end, doesnt matter what out of so long as it lasts.
on the inside of the boot you want to force water into the bottom to power the fluid bed, excess water then comes up and over to flow over the slick plate (make the boot so it leaves an opening for the water to come up over the top) you probably need to have a topper to keep water from shooting in the air. the angle of the sluice from there will raise / lower the trap pressure. Careful not to shoot the pump water directly at the trap, you want to shoot it up to hit the seperator between the trap plate and the top plate, know what I'm sayin? like a T with the vertical part of the T representing the water jet going up and hitting the seperator. You want to redirect water like the letter S with the lower right side of the S as the trap plate and the top right part of the S as the top plate. You're basicall filling the bottom and letting the excess water flow unimpeded up and over the top plate. Boom. Good luck.

What I'm struggling with is the internal mechanism to lock it in place internally. I don't want to post any pictures yet of what I have but it's a lever/spreader to lock the rubber boot in place. (I don't want to drill the BGT lol)
I definately want to show BGT another modification I'm working on that will be a ding-dong winner in their accessories section or as an option for every one of their sluices.

I'm working on it! 12 days in a row at work has me dragging butt though. What I need is a mind clearing zen shovel session day in a river with my 48 inch BGT hwhg. <3
 

ok now I have the idea now the million dollar ????? is on a 30" sniper what type of GPM pump would you use?
 

I'd think you could get away with a 1000 gph electric pump, however I've never seen a sniper so its just a guess. Maybe 2000, I wonder if you can have too much water... LoL
 

well good I have a 1500 gph electric............we'll try that
 

I would be amazed if someone has knowledge of an actual release date
 

Hey BGT.................how about those high banker kits? just give us something to try or play or at least experiment with?
 

I have no idea of the design, I'm speculating. However the proper PSI is way easier than everyone is making it. It's just like the setup in the instructions. Right tilt for your model and good water flow over the top.

Also to the best of my knowledge I've never locked up my fluid bed (That sounds like way too flat or way not enough agua), Run it fast and hard and shovel your butt off until yer boo boo is about to poke out.
The conversion kit is coming, hang in there folks. I'd rather it be perfect than out now. Keep up the good work BGT!
 

Ebuyc,

I would be interested in one of your extra stands. I have a 48" prospector but i'll give it a go. I really could use a stand where i am at. Even better would be the highbanker. I will send a pm.
 

ebuyc said:
I make your glorious stand!
I designed this before the new sizes were available; this was made for the 30" Prospector but will fit the 36" model and maybe others.
Now I primarily made this for myself and friends but I did make a dozen extra... One is promised to my buddy Bob A.k.a Underburden so 11... lol

AstroBouncer talks about my frame at 19:20:


Here are the directions I made for my stands:

****************************************
Bazooka Frame Operating Instructions

1) Put all four legs in the main frame and lightly tighten them in place. The front legs should be around 1 inch shorter then the back to start.
2) Put the assembled frame into the faster running water (no sluice). In slower moving water, rock dam wings or the equivalent will be needed to funnel enough water in the sluice ram and fluid bed for proper operation.
3) Adjust the legs one at a time pushing and turning them down into the stream bed. Don't worry to much about leveling yet.
4) Place some larger rocks between the back legs to help hold the frame down but more importantly to encourage water into the sluice ram and not all underneath the sluice.
5) Insert the sluice and adjust the height, level and angle. The water should flow over the highest point of the sluice past the grizzly. One inch of water is a nice place to start. Keep the angle as shallow as possible to move rocks through the system, increase the water depth before increasing the angle.
6) Tighten all set screws securely.
7) Remove the sluice and shovel some smaller rocks into the middle of the frame in between the large rocks you placed earlier. It is important to not let too much water go underneath the sluice.
8) Replace the sluice.
9) Run some test material through the sluice to make sure you have the system clearing rocks with minimal assistance (clearing the grizzly bars periodically is normal.)
10) Slip your fingers into the discharge of the sluice after the sluice has had a chance to clear. If your feel the material going past the middle of the PVC pipes you are probably scouring too much material out of your fluid bed and possible finer gold. Either raise the angle to be shallower or let more water around or under the sluice.

WARNING: Lifting the sluice by inserting your fingers into the discharge slot may damage the sluice!

11) To empty the sluice, push back on the front and move the sluice backwards 3 or four inches. Then grab the BOTTOM of the front and the back of the sluice and raise up out of the water in a level fashion, carefully clearing the top retaining tabs. Dump the sluice into a bucket of water and rinse out with a up and down motion.

Tips:

a) The sluice likes LOTS of water and you should expect to wear rubber boots and put the sluice out into the water a ways.
b) When to empty the sluice? Really the best way to answer this is to watch the fluid bed for packing or too much material. You can poke at the fluid bed with a stick or even slip you (skinny) fingers in the back. It is ok to grab one of the legs and shake the sluice side to side a little (not too violently). This will help exchange some lights for heavies, just watch the level of those heavies (check for packing.)
c) The sluice is a work horse and can handle a lot of material, but don't get carried away. Feed the sluice at half throttle not turbo!
d) Stand in front of the sluice when pulling. Slows the water entering into the sluice and makes it easier to pull.


Enjoy your new Bazooka Prospector Easy Frame!

****************************************


I also make a HB conversion and I like the clean hood design in the video; my only issue is it has some crazy waterflow... I am using a pressure gauge with my prototype and still dialing the unit in. The Bazooka's weakness is it needs a fairly narrow window of water volume (flow and pressure) to fluidize the bed properly. And for the super fine gold (lots more of it than larger gold) you really need to know what your bed pressure is. But that is not even enough as you still have to 'poke' at the fluid bed while in operation to make sure you are not locking up. So bottom line to much water is bad and to little is worse; the finer the gold the narrower the 'sweet spot' for water flow.

*Updated*
After reading Prospector70's description of the design, I must say it is radically different then mine. I ran three pipes with rubber boots to the bed tubes. Then I have the top water feed wye'd and an inline valve so I can adjust the ratio of water coming into the top and bottom. I wonder if the one shown has an adjustable 'baffle' to 'let' different flows of water over the top?? If not I think it would be extremely difficult to adjust the HB into the 'sweet spot!'

My 2+2 bits...
Click to expand...


Sorry ! Only Charter Members can sell here . & I'm not sure but your's may require a
Supporting Vendor I.D. since you produced them
 

Sorry for posting about my frames and other stuff I like to build for fun. Won't happen again... I am not a rule breaker, I just thought others would be interested in my design. Note: I make such good money from my day job I have no need nor desire to sell my frames at this time; and was not my intent. Merry Christmas.
 

You must log in or register to reply here.

Prospector FB PSI?

⬅️ Previous Thread

BEAT L.A.

Next Thread ➡️

Top Member Reactions

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
Simplex Metal Detector

Latest Discussions

Back
Top