I plan to get my detector soon. I want to find something with it. Is there anybody who has the time to post suggestions to this thread so i can learn? Thanks
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Any teachers out there?
- Thread starter EURUS
- Start date
jeff of pa said:
SORRY but I think I (WE) have givin you Advice on what to Do.
weldermark said:
mike98000 said:
JakePhelps said:
JUST TO POST A FEW
JakePhelps
Silver Member
What do you need help with 
We can all give you a hand 
We can all give you a hand
JakePhelps said:What do you need help with
I agree, ASK, and "YE SHALL RECEIVE"
if you Don't know what to ask yet, READ UP
Jeff
wmas1960
Sr. Member
Actually, as you rephrase what it was that you really were asking, many of us did answer your question. It may have gotten lost among a lot of the discussions about quality of the WM and RS machines. That, the quality of machines, I know, wasn't my major intent.
I did intend to suggest against the lower models, say under $200, in the line as they might be better classified as toys etc and for children. Not the best choice for a more serious detector. I also wanted to caution that, just because they say Bounty Hunter, in the name, they are models other than the main stream models. They might be identical in all ways to a more expensive BH detector but just rebranded with a different name. Or, They could be custom designed or built to other specs to make them more mass marketable at Walmart, or to fit a company like Radio Shack's bottom line. Thus, unless you can find specific reviews of the specific models, and their effectiveness and long term reliability, or feel like you are getting the expertise and customer service from the seller, Personally, I would avoid them, considering how much you would be spending and all. This is just my opinion but I want someone backing up the product with knowlege and experience, or I want a product that, due to overwhelming reviews and experience, like with all that is said about the ACE 250 and the White's Prizm, I can have the confidence to go it alone. Also, being the main brands, they have the better warrantee's and all.
You didn't seem to notice the comments in some of the other posts. At least, I know that was part of my point when I was trying to address the lack of real customer service that you will get at Radio Shack or Walmart, compared to what you would get by building a relationship with a regular treasure hunting or metal detecting retailer.
By going to a local shop that specializes in metal detecting you will find a person who knows his product and the people who use it. He will be out hunting the vary areas that you want to learn about, familiar with all the laws, restricted areas, and permit requirements, the local detecting clubs.... He will be there for you to go visit when you have a problem and need some help. . Even if it is to understand how to program or adjust some of the more advanced settings on one of the more sophisticated detectors or to learn some digging and searching techniques.
I mentioned 2 shops that I have been to in my area. Neither are as large and well stocked with kitchen appliances to bedding and furniture, video tapes, toys guns, hardware, food and fishing and sports equipment. Or Stereos, transistors, batteries, radio controlled toys, phones or metal detectors. They may just have detectors, scoops, digging tools and pouches. pr other items related to detecting. One store was a place, like those I remember my dad taking me to, to get a vaccum or TV fixed. You go in the door and it is an old hole in the wall kind of place with broken equipment around all tagged for repair. A work bench behind the counter, all covered with dissassembled equipment and tools..... As I said in the other post, I saw all the utility locating detectors lined up in the front, all in varying states of damage and disrepair. I almost walked out, thinking I was in the wrong place. Then I noticed a couple of scoops or something hanging from a peg board and a stack of Whites boxes right off the UPS truck. I stood at the counter for a few moments as the proprietor came out. I asked if I was in the right place and we then got into a short discussion of Chicago Beaches, Metal Detecting Clubs, Some of the Forest Preserves etc. I bought the detector(White's XLT) from him and he gave me a 15 minute or so orientation, one on one, ( I think that is something that White's demands from their dealers ), about the detector, battery usage, basic operation. He opened the box and went over all the accessories and extras, including the videotape... He then told me that should I have any troubles in the future to come back. He had a test garden burried behind the store where he could further demonstrate the detector or help me with any problems.
The second store was tucked in the back of an industrial park. Behind some mini-warehouses and other offices. They kept odd hours. Weren't open in the morning but were open till about 9 in the evening, as I recall. I felt wierd driving back there so late when the whole area seemed so desolate. I got back there and there was a glow coming from a door on the side of the building. As I entered, it looked like a little museum. Display cases filled with metal detecting finds, not merchandise. Scoops and diggers and other, tools and equipment hanging on the wall. A display of metal detectors in the corner... Again, as I selected a digging tool and a sand scoop, I got to talking to the salesman. We talked about permits and detecting in the local forest preserves. Then about a big indian find up in Wisconsin, near where I went to school. Some club hunts at some properties in the area, local, monthly meetings of the detector club in the area....
So, as I stated in a previous post, these are the types of teachers that I have found. Along with all the information, as mentioned a little before this, that are presented on this group. Between the daily stuff that I find here, about detecting in general, then adding the specific assistance or input I can get from these dealers on MY detector or the area around ME. Those are the teachers that I see out there.
I did intend to suggest against the lower models, say under $200, in the line as they might be better classified as toys etc and for children. Not the best choice for a more serious detector. I also wanted to caution that, just because they say Bounty Hunter, in the name, they are models other than the main stream models. They might be identical in all ways to a more expensive BH detector but just rebranded with a different name. Or, They could be custom designed or built to other specs to make them more mass marketable at Walmart, or to fit a company like Radio Shack's bottom line. Thus, unless you can find specific reviews of the specific models, and their effectiveness and long term reliability, or feel like you are getting the expertise and customer service from the seller, Personally, I would avoid them, considering how much you would be spending and all. This is just my opinion but I want someone backing up the product with knowlege and experience, or I want a product that, due to overwhelming reviews and experience, like with all that is said about the ACE 250 and the White's Prizm, I can have the confidence to go it alone. Also, being the main brands, they have the better warrantee's and all.
You didn't seem to notice the comments in some of the other posts. At least, I know that was part of my point when I was trying to address the lack of real customer service that you will get at Radio Shack or Walmart, compared to what you would get by building a relationship with a regular treasure hunting or metal detecting retailer.
By going to a local shop that specializes in metal detecting you will find a person who knows his product and the people who use it. He will be out hunting the vary areas that you want to learn about, familiar with all the laws, restricted areas, and permit requirements, the local detecting clubs.... He will be there for you to go visit when you have a problem and need some help. . Even if it is to understand how to program or adjust some of the more advanced settings on one of the more sophisticated detectors or to learn some digging and searching techniques.
I mentioned 2 shops that I have been to in my area. Neither are as large and well stocked with kitchen appliances to bedding and furniture, video tapes, toys guns, hardware, food and fishing and sports equipment. Or Stereos, transistors, batteries, radio controlled toys, phones or metal detectors. They may just have detectors, scoops, digging tools and pouches. pr other items related to detecting. One store was a place, like those I remember my dad taking me to, to get a vaccum or TV fixed. You go in the door and it is an old hole in the wall kind of place with broken equipment around all tagged for repair. A work bench behind the counter, all covered with dissassembled equipment and tools..... As I said in the other post, I saw all the utility locating detectors lined up in the front, all in varying states of damage and disrepair. I almost walked out, thinking I was in the wrong place. Then I noticed a couple of scoops or something hanging from a peg board and a stack of Whites boxes right off the UPS truck. I stood at the counter for a few moments as the proprietor came out. I asked if I was in the right place and we then got into a short discussion of Chicago Beaches, Metal Detecting Clubs, Some of the Forest Preserves etc. I bought the detector(White's XLT) from him and he gave me a 15 minute or so orientation, one on one, ( I think that is something that White's demands from their dealers ), about the detector, battery usage, basic operation. He opened the box and went over all the accessories and extras, including the videotape... He then told me that should I have any troubles in the future to come back. He had a test garden burried behind the store where he could further demonstrate the detector or help me with any problems.
The second store was tucked in the back of an industrial park. Behind some mini-warehouses and other offices. They kept odd hours. Weren't open in the morning but were open till about 9 in the evening, as I recall. I felt wierd driving back there so late when the whole area seemed so desolate. I got back there and there was a glow coming from a door on the side of the building. As I entered, it looked like a little museum. Display cases filled with metal detecting finds, not merchandise. Scoops and diggers and other, tools and equipment hanging on the wall. A display of metal detectors in the corner... Again, as I selected a digging tool and a sand scoop, I got to talking to the salesman. We talked about permits and detecting in the local forest preserves. Then about a big indian find up in Wisconsin, near where I went to school. Some club hunts at some properties in the area, local, monthly meetings of the detector club in the area....
So, as I stated in a previous post, these are the types of teachers that I have found. Along with all the information, as mentioned a little before this, that are presented on this group. Between the daily stuff that I find here, about detecting in general, then adding the specific assistance or input I can get from these dealers on MY detector or the area around ME. Those are the teachers that I see out there.
B
BIG BAD JOHN
Guest
EURUS: Here is some general information and a bit of advice to consider as you journey into the hobby of treasure hunting.
First, it is good to have at least a general idea of what type of hunting you will be doing. I would venture to say that most folks are coinshooters who look for modern clad coinage that is worth no more than the face value of the coin, while some coinshooters prefer to hunt sites with a longer history that may produce older silver and possibly some gold coins that may be worth more than the face value of the coin. Hunting as a coinshooter for primarily clad and silver coinage, a detector with a frequency on the lower end of the scale, in the 5 to 10 khz range may be best. These detectors will excel in mild to moderately mineralized ground conditions seeking those types of metals.
Others search for relics at old home sites, battlefields, or most any place of significant historical value. They are primarily concerned with extreme depth capability and some place a high value on the ability of the detector to ignore iron if searching for Civil War lead bullets, or uniform accoutrements, while others may look for a large iron signal to search for things like cannonballs, etc. Relic detectors often operate in roughly the 10 to 15 kHz frequency range and are known to be depth demons.
Still other hunters prefer to search the ocean beaches. If this is your primary focus, then you should be looking for a specialized detector to search the saltwater beaches, since the detector must be able to ignore the capacitance effect of the saltwater. Detecting FRESHwater beaches can be done with most general purpose machines, provided the coil and cable are waterproof. The saltwater beach detectors typically operate above 15 kHz and are excellent for finding gold jewelry.
There are some folks who prefer to engage in electronic prospecting in gold bearing areas. The gold bearing ground is typically highly mineralized and may have 'hot' rocks which can cause the detector to give a false signal. Most gold machines operate well above 20 kHz, some as high as 50 to 60 kHz frequency, or higher.
If you're a casual hunter who is going to primarily coinshoot in your limited spare time and occasionally hunt on the beach, prospect, or relic hunt, a general purpose detector with an extra accessory coil or two to cover some additional hunting scenarios would be the way to go. If most of your hunting will be on the beach, prospecting, or relic hunting, it may be better to get a more specialized machine better suited for the purpose.
If you're going to be a general purpose hunter with a primary focus on coinshooting, I would STRONGLY recommend building a test garden. There are many resources to read about test gardens on the web, but basically, a test garden for a coinshooter should consist of several coins of different denominations buried at known locations and depths. This will allow you to scan your detector over the spot where you know what the coin already is and it's measured depth. This will allow you to begin to understand how your detector reacts to those types of targets in your own native soil. Also include some trash items like pulltabs, screwcaps, bits of foil wrappers, whatever things you may encounter in your normal hunting sites when searching for coins. It is also a good idea to include a ring so you can identify jewelry as well.
Join your local MD club? if one is available, or if not, find a hunting buddy who likes the same type of hunting you do (coinshooter, relic hunter, etc.) then get out and hunt with him or her and pick up any pointers you can. Their experience will be invaluable to you as a beginning treasure hunter.
Finally, I would recommend to dig all of your targets at first when in the field to make sure you've learned your lessons well in the test garden, MD club, or from you hunting buddy's tips and advice. Also make sure to read the operator's manual that came with your detector several times. Don't just read it, STUDY it. If you read something you don't understand, get on the web forums and ask for help...there's a lot of folks out here willing to offer valuable experience and insight.
While these tips are pretty general, I hope that they offer some additional help. Hope you get started soon and have a world of fun. If you've got specific questions, post them here or email me if you want. Good luck with your new detector, regardless of brand or model. BBJ
First, it is good to have at least a general idea of what type of hunting you will be doing. I would venture to say that most folks are coinshooters who look for modern clad coinage that is worth no more than the face value of the coin, while some coinshooters prefer to hunt sites with a longer history that may produce older silver and possibly some gold coins that may be worth more than the face value of the coin. Hunting as a coinshooter for primarily clad and silver coinage, a detector with a frequency on the lower end of the scale, in the 5 to 10 khz range may be best. These detectors will excel in mild to moderately mineralized ground conditions seeking those types of metals.
Others search for relics at old home sites, battlefields, or most any place of significant historical value. They are primarily concerned with extreme depth capability and some place a high value on the ability of the detector to ignore iron if searching for Civil War lead bullets, or uniform accoutrements, while others may look for a large iron signal to search for things like cannonballs, etc. Relic detectors often operate in roughly the 10 to 15 kHz frequency range and are known to be depth demons.
Still other hunters prefer to search the ocean beaches. If this is your primary focus, then you should be looking for a specialized detector to search the saltwater beaches, since the detector must be able to ignore the capacitance effect of the saltwater. Detecting FRESHwater beaches can be done with most general purpose machines, provided the coil and cable are waterproof. The saltwater beach detectors typically operate above 15 kHz and are excellent for finding gold jewelry.
There are some folks who prefer to engage in electronic prospecting in gold bearing areas. The gold bearing ground is typically highly mineralized and may have 'hot' rocks which can cause the detector to give a false signal. Most gold machines operate well above 20 kHz, some as high as 50 to 60 kHz frequency, or higher.
If you're a casual hunter who is going to primarily coinshoot in your limited spare time and occasionally hunt on the beach, prospect, or relic hunt, a general purpose detector with an extra accessory coil or two to cover some additional hunting scenarios would be the way to go. If most of your hunting will be on the beach, prospecting, or relic hunting, it may be better to get a more specialized machine better suited for the purpose.
If you're going to be a general purpose hunter with a primary focus on coinshooting, I would STRONGLY recommend building a test garden. There are many resources to read about test gardens on the web, but basically, a test garden for a coinshooter should consist of several coins of different denominations buried at known locations and depths. This will allow you to scan your detector over the spot where you know what the coin already is and it's measured depth. This will allow you to begin to understand how your detector reacts to those types of targets in your own native soil. Also include some trash items like pulltabs, screwcaps, bits of foil wrappers, whatever things you may encounter in your normal hunting sites when searching for coins. It is also a good idea to include a ring so you can identify jewelry as well.
Join your local MD club? if one is available, or if not, find a hunting buddy who likes the same type of hunting you do (coinshooter, relic hunter, etc.) then get out and hunt with him or her and pick up any pointers you can. Their experience will be invaluable to you as a beginning treasure hunter.
Finally, I would recommend to dig all of your targets at first when in the field to make sure you've learned your lessons well in the test garden, MD club, or from you hunting buddy's tips and advice. Also make sure to read the operator's manual that came with your detector several times. Don't just read it, STUDY it. If you read something you don't understand, get on the web forums and ask for help...there's a lot of folks out here willing to offer valuable experience and insight.
While these tips are pretty general, I hope that they offer some additional help. Hope you get started soon and have a world of fun. If you've got specific questions, post them here or email me if you want. Good luck with your new detector, regardless of brand or model. BBJ
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