2nd detector and maintenance

Get a Classic III, you can adjust the freq on it and use it near other Classics. I use a Classic III as my backup and for one of my kids to use when they go with me. Works out good.

Rich
 

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Hey Poncho;
Rich is right, a Classic III would be a good one, it has a freq. adjustment knob on it so you can vary the freq. when hunting with-in I would say 20 feet. Out side of that, you shouldn't get any inteference or bleed over from the other detector. The Classic III comes with a 9.5 inch coil, and operates exactly like the Classic II, but my Daughter had trouble pinpointing witht the larger coil, I sold her a 5.3 coil and it sure helped her in pinpointing and finding coins, especially in parks and ball diamonds where there is a lot of tabs and junk, the small coil is a benefit and still gets good depth.
As far as maintenance goes, I like to keep my detectors clean, I check the small screws and bolts that holds things together for looseness now and then. If you shake the detector and hear something rattling around inside, better check for a nut that has come off of one of the bolts. The place where your coil cable plugs into the control box has 2 bolts that has come loose on a couple Classic II detectors, be sure and check these often. During storage it is best to remove the battery pack, or else the constant pressure on the 2 contact springs inside will cause them to weaken after awhile and cause a loose contact. Other than that, no problems or any maintenance I know of. HH. Scotty
 

scotty, Hey scotty could i just get any detector that uses a different frequency?And i have a ? about the classic 2 as far as ring range and coin range ring range picks up every piece of trash ,how do you tell the difference between trash and a gold ring? and if you go to coin range or beyond you lose the gold rings.I buried my weccing ring and it sounded like trash. any help?im out poncho thanks
 

Poncho,
Sure you can get a different brand than a Whites. Most other brands operate on a different frequency. Its nice if you have the same brand because the battery packs can interchange, both operate almost the same, same sound, pinpoint, swing speed, don't have to learn a different brands characteristics. Now to the question on rings. Gold rings just happen to fall into the same range that pull tabs and nickles do. On gold rings there may be some break up in the signal because gold rings are sometimes made of alloys and plated with gold which the alloys cause the detector to "see" them as a ferrous metal. If hunting in areas that you think will have gold rings, you just have to dig every signal. Silver rings are different, they sound just like a coin. If you set your detector to just pick out nickles and omit most pull tabs, you should still be able to pick out gold rings. Remember I showed you how to set a point on the scale of the discrimination knob to mark where pull tabs disappeared and could still pick up a nickle in a previous post. If you just buried your ring, also bury a pulltab, and a bottlecap also, and then pass the coil over each one and listen for the least little difference in the sound, there will be a difference between the three targets, after you learn to hear the difference, you will be able to tell most of the time whether to dig or not dig. But if in doubt, dig, dig, dig. When detectors first came on the market for the public, you had to dig every signal, cause every signal sounded almost alike, and they picked up every kind of metal made and cinders too. After awhile you started noticing a slight difference in the sound of different targets, and learned what a coin sounded like compared to trash. Many hunters today don't take the time to learn their detector and the sounds to aquire the "ear" for them to tell the difference. Manufacturers have tried to please us by using belltones, ID tones for different targets, but the sad truth is, only way to know for sure is to dig.
HH. Scotty
 

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