Using CTX 3030 Underwater--Any Precautions You Can Share?

califteacher

Full Member
Sep 30, 2012
162
232
Vista, San Diego County, CA
Detector(s) used
Minelab CTX3030 and Excalibur II
Primary Interest:
Beach & Shallow Water Hunting
This may sound silly, but I am a bit nervous about using my CTX 3030 completely underwater at the beach. As the weather gets warmer, I would like to use my CTX 3030 in the surf, as deep as I can manage--chest to shoulder high (I am 6'5"). I was wondering if any of those who have used the CTX completely underwater have any thoughts or suggestions. I am trying to imagine the damage that would be done to this expensive detector if water got in the wrong place. In another thread, someone mentioned buying silicone grease for the plastic seal of their battery compartment (on another model detector), but it seems like anything of this sort would end up attracting dry sand later and eventually doing more harm than good. I would like the benefit of your colllected knowledge before I do something dumb. By the way, I do have the Gray Ghost waterproof Headphones designed for the CTX 3030, so that is covered. Thank you for your feedback.
 

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Minelab.com has some good videos on the CTX 3030. The "Go Detecting Anywhere with the CTX 3030" video has all the tips needed to keep the guts dry in the water. Go detecting anywhere with the CTX 3030 | Minelab Videos Follow the guidance and you will be fine in the water. Beach Papa
 

I have had mine completely under water, no problem. I do use a thin layer of silicon grease on o ring for battery case. I have always done this with my excal and still do.I think after being in salt water you should take a little extra care on the clean up.rinse well and wipe down also after everything is dry I take the batt off , disconnect my grey ghost headphones and remove USB cap inspect and wipe down. Everything has always looked good
 

I have seen a few issues with the carbon fiber and the handle but I'm not sure if they are related to deep water hunting. I do know this and this came from a CTX hunter I know, He said he was unsure of the depth issue in ruff waters. His thing was ruffer water creates more water pressure, there for the deeper you go the water pressure is doubled on each wave.


How you like those GGUW's? Have several who have complained about the audio quality.
 

May I also recommend using silicone grease on the seal. I also like to use a strip of electrical tape on seam after joining the battery to the housing, this will help keep sand from being attracted to the grease., I like to wrap around the clamps to prevent accidentally knocking one loose. Also I'd use the alkaline battery pack if your getting in the water to be safe.
 

I should add, if I'm going to be in over waist deep I will be useing my excal.it's just easy and after you can't read the screen what's the point of having it
 

Wear google(s) so you can read the meter, when it goes under water.
With heavy lead belt, reading light, an emergency air bottle, you should be able to sit down at the bottom of the sea, and scroll thru the menu.
LOL
 

I'll be doing the same, but I'm a bit nervous to put this machine in the water. I'll do it though, I watched the video about 5 times to make sure I won't forget any steps.
 

Another suggestion.... make sure you batteries are up to power, you dont want to have to take that thing apart on a sandy beach. Mham2.... now there is a smart man. If you plan on dunking it.... grab a true water machine.
 

I would also suggest to cover the holes in the shaft and the lock buttons with duct tape to keep sand out of the shaft so you can adjust it later if needed. Nothing wrong with using a thin coating of Silicone Grease to the O rings. Wipe off any that you see on the outside.
 

*** Also I'd use the alkaline battery pack if your getting in the water to be safe***

Hadn't thought of that option (using battery pack) and that is a great way to be extra safe. Should the battery compartment leak after all precautions (silicon grease, waterproof taping) then you haven't damaged anything important (hopefully). The internal workings are sealed - the only way it could be damaged further is if the male electrode ends short out and melts the plastic battery housing.
 

I have read several people put those silicone bracelets around the latches on the battery just in case you were to accidentally unlatch it under water. I think that was one of the best tips I seen. :)


Cory
 

Over 200 hours underwater, no leaks BUT no big waves that I've been in here in the Gulf.
I never use silicone grease, I do use a wide rubber band or piece of innertube to cover the battery clips and to slow any sand infiltration.

DO hose it off when done in the salt.
Do dry it or let it drip dry and then remove the battery to ensure it hasn't leaked.....while you have it off, charge it and rinse off the red seal and dry.
Do take an air can (or a small artists paint brush) to clean the groove where the seal goes.
I check the USB port about every third trip in the water. Sand will infiltrate the cap due to the thread configuration. Clean the threads on both the cap and jack... and re-install the cap. Tightly!
Put the seal back in then the battery when charged. There is a flat side of the seal that is supposed to be towards the coil. I have had it in both ways with NO leakage.

My Excal is lonely....

Cliff
 

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Ironic I gave advice in the battery compartment and then my USB port floods out today rendering my CTX inoperable. Going to have to send it back.


Cory
 

Bejamble, did your USB port leak despite using silicone grease or teflon tape to keep it water tight? Did you isolate the problem?
 

Bejamble, did your USB port leak despite using silicone grease or teflon tape to keep it water tight? Did you isolate the problem?

Teflon tape and/or silicon grease on the threads won't seal the USB port due to the jack shape (In my opinion). The actual sealing surface appears to be inside the cap, you need to have clean threads, don't cross thread the fine threads and make it tight enough so the rubber seal inside the cap seals against the flat surface on the jack. I've attached some pictures which you can see an impression of the USB port on the rubber seal....also you can see the jack threads are not continuous around the circumferance of the jack.
Cliff
 

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Cdv is dead on here, the port needs a redesign to improve the water tight integrity. I let the machine sit overnight and looks like it is working normal, just have to watch it for now.


Cory
 

Glad it's working Cory since I was one who recommended the CTX. I would apply a very small amount of diver silicone to flat rubber washer inside cap, but not the thread, that will attract sand. That is a straight thread and is not designed to seal water out, the flat rubber washer does the sealing.
 

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Yeah, I noticed the only sealing is done in the cap and not in the threads. If you ask me it's poorly designed. I'm scared to turn down the cap too hard as it could twist the port and possibly do damage inside. It does need to be tight though and a very thin coat of silicone may do the trick. I would like to do something to seal it up properly though. If I wasn't concerned with the warranty, I would stick a in cord in there and permanently seal it with a cord in the plug and then make my own sealed cap on the other end. Since it's still under warranty, I won't be doing that. I'm leery to submerge it again to be honest. If I go during low tide I can go out about 100-200 yards without submerging the control unit. That is far enough to dig around.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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