Thinking about getting started

[Mudball]

I have a lot to learn but I will take it a step at a time. Ive always wanted to metal detect but now I have more time and thinking about it more.
I think I want a detector that will pick up gold and tell the difference between different metals if thats possible.
We live next to a small river so I want to be able to regularly submerse the end or coils I think theyre called.
I really want a dependable detector just as anyone would but I know sometimes you get what you pay for.
Might be willing to spend 300 to 500 dollars.
Is this realistic ? Brands, names, suggestions please.
Thanks

 

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[worldtalker]

Mudball...(appropriate name for this time of year) Welcome too by the way. Any machine you use takes time to learn what it is telling you..patience and persistence is your ticket,oh...RESEARCH and LOCATION are right in there too!


Machine wise...what ever you decide on...LEARN the SOUNDS. Unfortunately gold and aluminum will give the same signals......DIG IT ALL.

Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you more.

GOD Bless

Chris

 

[Mudball]

Ok I need to back up and think about this some more. I just did some more reading and research and there are many many variables. I think I need to consider more precisely what Im going to be doing with the detector. I know I can use it on dry ground and intend to. Such hunting on dry ground will be for antique metals, coins, etc..The water/river hunting was just something I MIGHT do at sometime later. The Gold signal is for gold coins I suspect might be in my area and not for natural small/large nuggets. Im sure I can refine my wants and needs as I think about this some more.

 

[Mudball]

Mudball...(appropriate name for this time of year) Welcome too by the way. Any machine you use takes time to learn what it is telling you..patience and persistence is your ticket,oh...RESEARCH and LOCATION are right in there too!


Machine wise...what ever you decide on...LEARN the SOUNDS. Unfortunately gold and aluminum will give the same signals......DIG IT ALL.

Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you more.

GOD Bless

Chris

Thanks.
Sounds like words of wisdom. I think I might start leaning toward a beginner model first. What is a dependable brand name ? Kind of like Toyota is a dependable vehicle by reputation but they can cost from low end to high end but they are mostly still dependable. Is there such the same with detectors that have a long track record ?

 

[worldtalker]

Thanks.
Sounds like words of wisdom. I think I might start leaning toward a beginner model first. What is a dependable brand name ? Kind of like Toyota is a dependable vehicle by reputation but they can cost from low end to high end but they are mostly still dependable. Is there such the same with detectors that have a long track record ?

I started with the M-6,now over 5000 hours...I'm still learning it,you will get a lot of opinions on brand.I thought of an upgrade,but...I find too much good stuff!

 

[Mudball]

Thanks worldtalker.
Im starting to lean toward the Garrett Ace 250 or Fisher F4.
These models seem pretty common and user friendly.
Will these models pick up a old gold coin ?
Im having trouble understanding specifications.

 

[worldtalker]

Thanks worldtalker.
Im starting to lean toward the Garrett Ace 250 or Fisher F4.
These models seem pretty common and user friendly.
Will these models pick up a old gold coin ?
Im having trouble understanding specifications.

Iffin it's metal...they will find it,providing it's within range that is. You'll get the hang of it,I can see your face on the first good target,and a few words to go with it. It's a rush you'll get time after time..nothing like it!!

 

[Kevin in IN]

Welcome. I think your choice of an Ace 250 is a good one. They are a great machine to get your feet wet and decide if this hobby is for you, without investing a lot of cash. I have one I let people use that want to hunt with me, and they've all done well with it. Like Worldtalker said, most important, is learn what your machine is telling you. Pick good locations thru reasearch. If you do those things you will find treasure. Good luck. Kevin

 

[Tom_in_CA]

Welcome aboard. Another thing to consider is: are you talking about SINGULAR gold coins ? (ie.: fumble fingers losses), or CACHES ? (like if you suspect someone stashed their savings etc.... way-back-when).

If you meant singular gold coins, then any standard coin-machine will do. Naturally some will do it better than others (more depth, or better/separation see-through, or better in minerals, or better TID's, blah blah). That'll boil down to the age-old ford-vs-chevy debate. But essentially any coin machine would work. $2.50s read about at the pulltab area of TID. $5's read at the high-end of square tabs (or down at corroded zinc-ish area). $10's read up around IH's/fresh zinc area. $20's read at copper penny/dime-ish. But be aware, that finding gold coins is the "hole-in-one" of md'ing. Most md'rs will never find one in their entire hunting careers. They were not carried the way we carry coins today. They tended to be for when someone was getting ready to make a larger purchase (downpayment on land, or to buy a horse, etc....). Not that they COULDN'T have been carried and fumble-finger lost, but .... just saying.... be prepared that in regular coin-/relic hunt spots, a gold coin is going to be rare indeed to find.

If you meant gold coins in caches, let us know.

 

[Mudball]

Welcome aboard. Another thing to consider is: are you talking about SINGULAR gold coins ? (ie.: fumble fingers losses), or CACHES ? (like if you suspect someone stashed their savings etc.... way-back-when).

If you meant singular gold coins, then any standard coin-machine will do. Naturally some will do it better than others (more depth, or better/separation see-through, or better in minerals, or better TID's, blah blah). That'll boil down to the age-old ford-vs-chevy debate. But essentially any coin machine would work. $2.50s read about at the pulltab area of TID. $5's read at the high-end of square tabs (or down at corroded zinc-ish area). $10's read up around IH's/fresh zinc area. $20's read at copper penny/dime-ish. But be aware, that finding gold coins is the "hole-in-one" of md'ing. Most md'rs will never find one in their entire hunting careers. They were not carried the way we carry coins today. They tended to be for when someone was getting ready to make a larger purchase (downpayment on land, or to buy a horse, etc....). Not that they COULDN'T have been carried and fumble-finger lost, but .... just saying.... be prepared that in regular coin-/relic hunt spots, a gold coin is going to be rare indeed to find.

If you meant gold coins in caches, let us know.

Thanks again.
I really mean either single or cache. I live in an area where it was an old wagon trail and there use to be an old church and I believe they said there was an old general store. I have found some old rusted pieces of metal and bottles in a nearby ditch and I wonder about people that may have stopped and camped when traveling etc..

 

[Mudball]

Welcome. I think your choice of an Ace 250 is a good one. They are a great machine to get your feet wet and decide if this hobby is for you, without investing a lot of cash. I have one I let people use that want to hunt with me, and they've all done well with it. Like Worldtalker said, most important, is learn what your machine is telling you. Pick good locations thru reasearch. If you do those things you will find treasure. Good luck. Kevin

Thanks and I think your right about getting my feet wet to start with. Im still solid green with a lot to learn. I like peoples advice to learn how to use whatever I decide to buy.

 

[Silver Simon]

Thanks and I think your right about getting my feet wet to start with. Im still solid green with a lot to learn. I like peoples advice to learn how to use whatever I decide to buy.

In all honesty, if I were you I would raise your budget to $590. This will allow you to get an AT Pro, which is an amazing "first" detector. There is good reason that it is so popular, and it has nothing to do with a television show. The AT Pro is fast in trashy areas and has decent depth. And to top it off, its waterproof, so you can safely use it in the rain or in a river. Learning the settings is a breeze.

The AT Pro was my first detector. When I made the decision to try the hobby, I did research for a day, decided to order the AT, and then watched a few YouTube videos on how to operate it. I was out in a park a few days later pulling good targets left and right.

Due to the AT Pro's popularity, they maintain a lot of their value, so if you decide the hobby is not for you, you can sell it without losing a lot of money. On the other hand, you could go cheaper and buy an Ace or similar model, fall in love with the hobby, and be regretful that you did not opt for a more capable machine.

 

[Skippy SH13]

Thanks worldtalker.
Im starting to lean toward the Garrett Ace 250 or Fisher F4.
These models seem pretty common and user friendly.
Will these models pick up a old gold coin ?
Im having trouble understanding specifications.

Hey Mudball,

I started this year, too. I settled on the ACE350, because of the slightly better discrimination (out) of Iron, and the Double D coil (which is a bit larger than the concentric on the ACE250). I couldn't have been happier. As far as jewelry goes, I found 3 gold rings in the first month (non-typical). What I DID do, was sell the gold rings, and then buy an ACE250 for my sons to use when I go (they were using a really cheap $40 metal detector... which worked GREAT for simply finding metal... all types of metal... they dug a lot of trash in addition to their pocket change).

I've now used both the ACE 250 and ACE 350, and if you're considering the 250, I can tell you it's VERY worth the minor upgrade to the 350. Both of them have the same learning curve (almost identical readouts), and are very appropriate for beginning/intermediate users. It's got bell-tones, which helped me a LOT... Knowing the different sounds different types of metal makes, and the sound bouncing that some metals make (like bottle caps), helped me learn what to dig. It's also easy enough to learn, that I can hand it to a co-worker and tell them go for it... and they find stuff.

I really liked the 350 over the 250 for two main reasons though.
1) Extra size on the Double D. Coil. It's a couple inches longer, which means every sweep of the coil, I get a lot more coverage. I spend less time swinging and more time digging.
2) the double D coil makes it easy to pinpoint the item in the ground. Unlike the concentric coils that have kind of a "ball" shaped detection field, the Double D is more like a blade that your wiping vertically through the ground. This means you can wiggle the blade back and forth over the target (side to side) to narrow down the location very easily. Then you simply move the wiggle backward until the beeping stops and presto! your target is right at the front tip of the Double D coil (albeit, still in the ground).

The ACE 350 also seems to discriminate better on foil and nickel targets (it seems to have 3 notches that they show up in, verses 1 or 2 on the ACE 250), though silver/coin differentiation is less (it's really not an issue... anything that shows as a dime or above, you dig anyway!).

Supposedly, the ACE 350's gold discrimination is better, too, because of the slightly higher frequency.

That being said, those are my ONLY experiences. (That and the harbor freight detectors!). I've really enjoyed the ACE350, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend based on easy of use, durability, and longevity of the 4 batteries (I can swing for 20+ hours on a single set).

One thing you absolutely should consider when you go to make your purchase, though, is a pinpointer of some type. I did this from the onset, and I've NEVER regretted it. Only when the batteries in the pin-pointer died, did I realize what an amazing tool that is. It's SO hard to find small dirty objects in a clod of dirt (they're invisible!) when you don't have a pinpointer. With a pinpointer, you take 5 seconds to locate that 22 shell that is now dirt colored, without one, it's MINUTES of hard sifting and wiping each handful of dirt in front of the coil to see if the target is "in there." Again, it goes back to time finding stuff, or time spent digging/searching. I find a TON more things by reducing my recovery time.

I wouldn't have chimed in on the ACE 350, if you hadn't said $300-$500. That was my target cost, as well. I purchased my ACE350 and Garrett Pro-Pointer BOTH for less than $500 (I got the adventure pack, and it included headphones, a coil cover, digger tool, etc.). I've never regretted it one instant.

Cheers,

Skippy

 

[Skippy SH13]

To follow up on Silver Simon's post, YES, I'm in fact going to be upgrading to the AT Pro.

The hang-up though, was that I couldn't get all the accessories for the original $600 price.. >I could only get the AT Pro. No pointer tool, no coil covers, no diggers...I figured if the metal detecting was THAT worth my time, I'd find enough to pay for an upgrade. I wasn't wrong... I simply paid for the ACE 250, instead, so my kids could come out! I'll eventually get an AT Pro, but I'll sell the 250 and keep the 350.

And as far as diggers go, I've fallen in love with the LESCHE digger tool (My Garrett digger stays at home). But if you're looking for low budget decent digger, $.50 at the local thrift shop will get you a very nice THICK bladed serrated steak knife.

I LOVE my steak knife for park hunts. I can cut sod faster than the digger tool, with less mess, and the thick blade doesn't flex much when lifting the dirt out of the ground. It's not a scoop by any means, but when you've pinpointed through the surface where the target is, you're only cutting a 3 inch line in the soil (either triangle flap or box flap) and lifting it up to recover the target.

In fact, it's not uncommon for me to skip the Lesche and grab my steak knife. The sharp pointy end also helps just lift coins out of the root bed.

Cheers,

Skippy

 

[Mudball]

Thanks for all the great help.
I will also consider going a step up to the waterproof model.
I have been reading and I have MUCH to learn.
Thanks again for the information from experiences.

 

[Mudball]

I might have a chance to buy a White's MXT very lightly used with the 9.5 coil. Also comes with a 5.3 (6x6) search coil, new Killer B's headset, new sand scoop, and case for 800.00
Well
I just mentioned it to the wife and I dont think she liked the price.

 

[Phantasman]

I agree with the wife. Getting into detecting with a MXT is a bit more than you might want to bite off. It's not just about what machine but the knowledge of the operator. Most machines beep when metal is detected. What does the beep mean?

My suggestion is to have a few important tools to help you learn. First, at least three tones, to narrow Iron, Gold, Silver range. Next, a segment division of at least 9. And lastly a numeric ID system. A m pinpoint function is nice until you learn to X with a fast recovery machine. Most treasure targets are no deeper than 8". And the deeper the target, the more problem the processor has to ID it.

You don't have to spend a fortune to get started. Start small and move up. A more expensive detector doesn't find you any more than a good mid range with the parameters I have described. I want you to learn, have fun, find treasure and keep the wife happy.

My own personal preference would be something like:

I have experience with many mid range detectors, and the QDP meets all the metrics above. You can find one for about $220. Use some funds to get a hand pinpointer and a Lesche digger. This is a great beginning setup at a minimal cost. If you want All Metal, you can spend an extra $40 and get:

It has ground balance and all the bells and whistles as well. $260.

Of course, I suggest them because I own them. And for the price, they offer just as much as units twice the price.

Just my thoughts.

 

[SusanMN]

If you are looking for a detector you can submerse, I would suggest either an ATPro or a Tiger Shark. The Tiger Shark is an awesome fresh water machine, but doesn't provide much info about the kind of metal it is detecting, and isn't the best choice for a lot of land detecting. An AT Pro does both and had target ID so you get additional info on the potential target. Both are about in your price range.

i would not consider buying an MXT or other land only machine If you are intending to actually hunt in the water. One good splash and your machine would be ruined. If you are going to hunt in the water you need a water machine.

 

[Silver Simon]

One good splash and your machine would be ruined. If you are going to hunt in the water you need a water machine.

That was part of my motivation in choosing the AT Pro when I did. I didn't really plan on hunting in the water, but I was concerned about being in the middle of a field when a rogue storm rolled in.

 

[Mudball]

Im leaning pretty heavy toward the AT Pro for right now. Im like others on here when it comes to the nice feature of being waterproof. I believe that will be important to me later.
Thanks