mojjax
Silver Member
It's 4 1/2 inches long . The handle looks like ivory . Anyone know how to test for ivory - (without damaging it) ?
mojjax
mojjax
Small pointy tool
- Thread starter mojjax
- Start date
BioProfessor
Silver Member
From - http://www.scrimshawstudio.com/faq.html
How do I tell if something is ivory, bone or an ivory substitute (plastic or resin)?
Ivory is actually the natural tooth of an animal. Teeth continue to grow throughout an animal's lifetime and as a result, they have a noticeable structure and "growth lines" (called Schreger lines in elephant ivory). Look at the piece carefully under a magnifying glass. Under a 10x magnifier, elephant and mammoth ivory will have visible striations or grain that often show up as diamond or "V" shapes or cross-hatching on the surface or edges of polished ivory. Bone lacks such "V" shaped striations. Under magnification bone usually shows minuscule circular or oval shaped dots on cut surfaces. These dots are the tiny vessels that once supplied the living bone. Also, bone exhibits grain-like parallel striations and usually has dark flecks of dirt particles caught in the pores of cut bone -- all not present in ivory. Resins or plastics have a uniform surface, usually with no striations or diamond or "V" patterns, however some manufacturers are now introducing faux ivory with an attempt to reproduce some of these features.
When looking at a piece, check the bottom or sides for the diamond or cross-hatch pattern typical of real ivory. Then check again for a slight wood-grain pattern, this is also typical of real ivory. Next, check the feel. Real ivory should have a cool-to-the-touch feeling. Resins or plastics may duplicate one or some of these features, but none duplicates them all.
Also, color often varies slightly (I emphasize slightly) throughout natural ivory (more variable in mammoth) from a creamy white to a creamy yellow-tan or a creamy, light yellow-brown, whereas bone and plastics are either consistent in color throughout, or their color variations may be extreme, especially in stained or colorized resins and plastics.
The next test involves using an inexpensive blacklight which you can find at most department or home improvement stores. Shine the blacklight on the piece. Ivory develops a beautiful natural patina with age which shows up as a yellow-brown overall color under normal lighting conditions. Under ultraviolet light, where the original ivory surface shows through the patina, the ivory will show up a bright white. When ultraviolet light is shined on resin or plastic ivory substitutes, the ultraviolet light is absorbed and they exhibit a dull appearance. (The light emitted by many long wave ultraviolet radiation lamps is hazardous to the eyes. NEVER look directly at a UV light.)
You can also take a Q-tip, dip it in alcohol and rub the piece in an inconspicuous area. If the patina comes off and colors the Q-tip, chances are good it's a paint or varnish or some other substance that was applied to give the impression of age.
There is one other way to tell if a piece is ivory or plastic, but be aware this should be used only as a last resort since it can be a destructive test, especially to plastic. It is the "so-called" red hot pin test. Take a pin and heat it in a flame until it is red hot. Touch the hot pin to an inconspicuous area of the piece. If it is real ivory, nothing much will happen. It may, however, produce a tiny smooth scorched point (which is never good for the resale value of a genuine ivory piece). If, on the other hand, it is resin or plastic, the needle may melt into the surface and produce a "burr" or small rough spot (never something a seller of fakes is actually going to allow you to do). If you are very close when you touch the pin to the piece, what you will notice most is the smell burning plastic. The "hot pin test" is actually more myth than practical. No seller is going to let you touch a hot piece of metal to real ivory and a fraud won't let you do it to their plastic piece either.
The "hot pin test" is actually more myth than practice. The test results are actually very difficult to verify and let's face it, no seller is going to let you touch a hot piece of metal to real ivory and a fraud won't let you do it to their plastic piece either.
For more information on this topic, you can check out the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service web site. They have many web pages devoted to identification, including diagnostic features and photos.
Daryl
How do I tell if something is ivory, bone or an ivory substitute (plastic or resin)?
Ivory is actually the natural tooth of an animal. Teeth continue to grow throughout an animal's lifetime and as a result, they have a noticeable structure and "growth lines" (called Schreger lines in elephant ivory). Look at the piece carefully under a magnifying glass. Under a 10x magnifier, elephant and mammoth ivory will have visible striations or grain that often show up as diamond or "V" shapes or cross-hatching on the surface or edges of polished ivory. Bone lacks such "V" shaped striations. Under magnification bone usually shows minuscule circular or oval shaped dots on cut surfaces. These dots are the tiny vessels that once supplied the living bone. Also, bone exhibits grain-like parallel striations and usually has dark flecks of dirt particles caught in the pores of cut bone -- all not present in ivory. Resins or plastics have a uniform surface, usually with no striations or diamond or "V" patterns, however some manufacturers are now introducing faux ivory with an attempt to reproduce some of these features.
When looking at a piece, check the bottom or sides for the diamond or cross-hatch pattern typical of real ivory. Then check again for a slight wood-grain pattern, this is also typical of real ivory. Next, check the feel. Real ivory should have a cool-to-the-touch feeling. Resins or plastics may duplicate one or some of these features, but none duplicates them all.
Also, color often varies slightly (I emphasize slightly) throughout natural ivory (more variable in mammoth) from a creamy white to a creamy yellow-tan or a creamy, light yellow-brown, whereas bone and plastics are either consistent in color throughout, or their color variations may be extreme, especially in stained or colorized resins and plastics.
The next test involves using an inexpensive blacklight which you can find at most department or home improvement stores. Shine the blacklight on the piece. Ivory develops a beautiful natural patina with age which shows up as a yellow-brown overall color under normal lighting conditions. Under ultraviolet light, where the original ivory surface shows through the patina, the ivory will show up a bright white. When ultraviolet light is shined on resin or plastic ivory substitutes, the ultraviolet light is absorbed and they exhibit a dull appearance. (The light emitted by many long wave ultraviolet radiation lamps is hazardous to the eyes. NEVER look directly at a UV light.)
You can also take a Q-tip, dip it in alcohol and rub the piece in an inconspicuous area. If the patina comes off and colors the Q-tip, chances are good it's a paint or varnish or some other substance that was applied to give the impression of age.
There is one other way to tell if a piece is ivory or plastic, but be aware this should be used only as a last resort since it can be a destructive test, especially to plastic. It is the "so-called" red hot pin test. Take a pin and heat it in a flame until it is red hot. Touch the hot pin to an inconspicuous area of the piece. If it is real ivory, nothing much will happen. It may, however, produce a tiny smooth scorched point (which is never good for the resale value of a genuine ivory piece). If, on the other hand, it is resin or plastic, the needle may melt into the surface and produce a "burr" or small rough spot (never something a seller of fakes is actually going to allow you to do). If you are very close when you touch the pin to the piece, what you will notice most is the smell burning plastic. The "hot pin test" is actually more myth than practical. No seller is going to let you touch a hot piece of metal to real ivory and a fraud won't let you do it to their plastic piece either.
The "hot pin test" is actually more myth than practice. The test results are actually very difficult to verify and let's face it, no seller is going to let you touch a hot piece of metal to real ivory and a fraud won't let you do it to their plastic piece either.
For more information on this topic, you can check out the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service web site. They have many web pages devoted to identification, including diagnostic features and photos.
Daryl
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BioProfessor
Silver Member
Geez Crusader, You're supposed to knock it on your buddy's head and ask him if it hurt. 
Daryl
Daryl
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Monty
Gold Member
- Jan 26, 2005
- 10,746
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Leave it outside overnight and if it attracts elephants or a walrus it just might be a redne....Wait, that's another joke. Never mind! Monty
Seriously, it looks like a tool for threading heavy materials. Shove it through the material, insert another piece of material in the slot and pull it back through the cut? Just a WAG. Monty
Seriously, it looks like a tool for threading heavy materials. Shove it through the material, insert another piece of material in the slot and pull it back through the cut? Just a WAG. Monty
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BioProfessor
Silver Member
Just makes me laugh. The post was to find out if the handle was ivory and we are spending all our time and energy trying to tell him what it is. Just too funny.
Daryl
Daryl
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BioProfessor
Silver Member
You've got a good point. lol
[/quote]
As in a POINTY tool. Jeez. You too??
Daryl
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WHEELS1973
Jr. Member
Daryl cares enough to write a term paper on this find only to be followed up by cute one liner LOL to funny
btw daryl i learn so much from your replies i just wish it would stay in my brain for more than five minutes lol.
btw daryl i learn so much from your replies i just wish it would stay in my brain for more than five minutes lol.
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Charlie P. (NY)
Gold Member
- Feb 3, 2006
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- Minelab Musketeer Advantage Pro w/8" & 10" DD coils/Fisher F75se(Upgraded to LTD2) w/11" DD, 6.5" concentric & 9.5" NEL Sharpshooter DD coils/Sunray FX-1 Probe & F-Point/Black Widows/Rattler headphone
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