SAND SHARK ?

pinenut · Jun 22, 2017

Hey folks, while I've been a little side-tracked lately with buying a nice (used) Tiger Shark then a junk Lobo.. and doing my local land detecting, it's just too damned hot up here on my mountain, and I'm heading to the beach.

I'm going to pick up a Sand Shark - and I'm going to ask this old question to those of you who have used both 8" and 10½" coil versions. WHICH ONE?

I'lll be doing SoCal beaches from Laguna to about Morro Bay. I know some beaches will be a little trashy, so thinking maybe the 8" coil. Then again, many of these beach spots have a lot of fine sand, and not too many rocks or shells, and probably not so much trash..

Which SS coil have you been happy with, and why?

Terry Soloman · Jun 22, 2017

8" all day!

pinenut · Jun 23, 2017

Terry Soloman said:
8" all day!

Terry, you need a hat! :sunny:

Is there no advantage to the 10½ coil? No better coverage, just additional weight?

Sandman · Jun 23, 2017

Everything is a trade off. Larger coils go deeper and also cover more ground per swing.

Terry Soloman · Jun 23, 2017

Is there an advantage to the 10.5"?

2"-3" more depth but, do you really need the added depth? in my experience no. Does it cover more ground? Not really. I hear this argument all the time - mostly from folks with very limited Pulse Induction experience. In an hour, the detectorist with the 10.5" coil may be a few yards in front of me, but they will be gone, arm worn out, before I finish for the day so who is really covering more sand? :skullflag:

pinenut · Jun 23, 2017

Terry Soloman said:
Is there an advantage to the 10.5"?

2"-3" more depth but, do you really need the added depth? in my experience no. Does it cover more ground? Not really. I hear this argument all the time - mostly from folks with very limited Pulse Induction experience. In an hour, the detectorist with the 10.5" coil may be a few yards in front of me, but they will be gone, arm worn out, before I finish for the day so who is really covering more sand?

Thanks. I wasn't looking for more depth as I expected plenty with either coil on a PI. Just wanting greater coverage for my lazy overlap.. I'll be hitting beaches much like the one in your picture; lots of sand to cover. I know how the 10½ does feel heavier than the 8 on my land version, but that's on a light micromax detector which doesn't have the counterweight of a heavier control box just in front of the arm cuff. Hmmm... maybe I should just get the 8" - my new scoop only has the 8" bucket anyway..

Thanks again! :icon_sunny:

Terry Soloman · Jun 23, 2017

You'll end up mounting the box above the handle - much better counterbalance. :skullflag:

pinenut · Jun 23, 2017

Terry Soloman said:
You'll end up mounting the box above the handle - much better counterbalance.

How do you like the straight shafts in your third pic above?

gamiller · Jun 23, 2017

Sandman said:
Everything is a trade off. Larger coils go deeper and also cover more ground per swing.

So true there are tradeoff to be made. I prefer the 10.5 but I use it mainly in the water .
In the water I find it one of the easiest detector to swing. The balance is superb. The coil slices through the water with ease.
On the wet sand only I suppose the 8 would preferable.

And remember Sandman's tag line. ''Time is the only thing you never get back etc.''

Terry Soloman · Jun 23, 2017

pinenut said:
How do you like the straight shafts in your third pic above?

HATED them! Complete pain in the.. Sold both setups after one season and went back to the S-rod without even blinking. :skullflag:

Sandman · Jun 24, 2017

All we can do is keep experimenting with different setups to see what is most comfortable for us. Some days I prefer one size coil and another time another. UUGH.... :laughing7:

pinenut · Jun 25, 2017

new Sand Shark on the way..

..should be here before next weekend. I'm thinking that the bigger coil shouldn't be too bad to swing with the control box at the back, so I got the 10½". My Tesoro land 10½ isn't all that bad to swing, and that's on a MicroMax with no rear counterweight like the SS has. If I don't like it, I can always pick up an 8" too.

Planning on just doing wet sand at low tide and up to knee deep water for starters; no real surf. I have the smaller (8" width) T-Rex scoop now; may pick up a Stealth 720 or RTG aluminum later on. I'll use my Cibola and a different scoop for the dry sand.

Probably should get a closable finds bag - any suggestions for that?
Also need some durable sandals or some kind of beach shoes.. Suggestions for sandals/shoes?

Would anyone like to offer TIPS for using the Sand Shark, or is it just "read the manual" and get out there?

Thanks again!

Terry Soloman · Jun 25, 2017

FIRST, go to page 12 in the manual and MAKE SURE you have set your tone frequency to match YOUR hearing the best. Do you hear high or low tones better? Next, set your pulse width to about 3/4 power (2-230pm position). Turn your threshold up to where you can barely hear it above the waves and wind noise - like a mosquito hum, and use the machine in NORMAL mode.

DO NOT just walk up or down the beach in one direction or the other! Pick yourself a 50-yard long beachfront, and start gridding it. You start at the wet sand high mark and detect right into the water thigh-deep, move over a step and detect right back up to the high wet sand mark.. Rinse and repeat until the whole 50-yards or 5-hours is done.

Slight “Positive” signals are also called “whisper” signals. This is a very soft or slight, almost unnoticeable, rise in the threshold signal. It will always be repeatable over the target – not random. If your threshold is set too high, or too low, you can miss them easily. If your threshold is not smooth you can miss these whisper signals easily. T

here can be a couple of reasons, including EMI, for an unstable threshold. The most common is too much pulse width. Sometimes you can max it out, sometimes you can only run it at the 12-1 o’clock position. It depends on the beach. If you want to make your machine more sensitive and cut down on interference, make sure you are not wrapping your coil wire close to the coil down on the lower plastic rod (see photo).

“Negative breaks,” are also referred to as whisper signals. This is when the threshold gets quieter, or goes away completely over the target. Again, negative breaks are always repeatable over a real target – not random. As you remove a little sand from over the target and re-sweep with your coil, the signal becomes a slight or stronger positive signal.

I use “Normal” mode, because it is easier for me to hear these positive and negative breaks in the threshold – that does not hold true for everyone. It takes time on the headphones to learn to recognize whisper signals, usually over 100-hours. Sometimes actually speeding up your swing back and forth helps to recognize these signals when you encounter them. The general rule however is always to SLOW down and pay attention.

I’m right-handed, so I swing the Sand Shark with my left arm. I mount the box up high and use the arm strap so that I let go of the detector and use my left hand to remove the target from the scoop. The arm strap keeps the detector right there attached to me, but gives me the ability to use both hands. Lastly, using your scoop effectively takes practice in the water. I put my toe just in back of the pinpointed target then place my scoop right in front of my toe for the recovery. This works well with practice. You’ll learn to time the waves.

Sand Scoop - Whether hunting fresh- or salt- water beaches, you need the right equipment to recover your targets. A good beach or sand scoop is a must. Choose your scoop based on the types of beaches you will be hunting, and the area of the beach. Generally, a long-handled large capacity sand scoop is desirable in the water. Aircraft-grade aluminum and stainless steel scoops come in a variety of shapes, lengths, weights, and prices. In the dry sand, a short-handled scoop is usually faster and easier to use. Do not buy a cheap scoop. This piece of equipment is essential - and just as important to your success as the metal detector you choose. I use the Reilly's Treasured Gold Aluminum Monster.

Finds Pouch - You will need a pouch to put your finds in. An inexpensive cloth nail pouch works great on the beach, but you will need something a bit more substantial for your wet sand and water finds. Large, open mesh, multi-pocket belt pouches with Velcro closures are ideal for the water. They allow the sand and water to rinse out, and secure your finds so they are not lost in the surf - again! I use the KellyCo Mesh Pouch.

Waders - Waders are the least expensive way to get into the surf at low tide. In most ocean beach situations, waders will only be serviceable to depths just above the knee due to wave action. Important things to look for in quality waders include weight; fabric thickness; flip out storage pockets; high-density neoprene booties (rather than heavy rubber boots); and a good wading belt should be included. Lightweight slip-on beach shoes can be worn over the neoprene booties.

Wetsuits - Fit is the most important factor when purchasing a wetsuit. You must try on the wetsuit, as every wetsuit manufacturer's size chart is different. Thickness is also important. The thicker the suit, the warmer. 'Smoothie' neoprene stretches better and is warmer in windy conditions. Seams are also important. The types of seams used in a wetsuit differ greatly.

An "Overlock" seam is found on inexpensive suits. This type of stitch lasts forever but it is not watertight, and can cause skin irritation or a rash as it protrudes against the skin. A "Flatlock" seam is a flat stitch that does not push into your skin like the overlock. It is not watertight, but does not cause as much of a rash or chaffing problem. The "Blindstitch," is a flat stitch that does not penetrate all the way through the neoprene, so there are no stitch holes. It is watertight which makes a tremendous difference. Blindstich seams are found only on more expensive wetsuits.
Last but not least, wetsuit zippers - or closures, are extremely important. "Back-zip" suits are the most common type. Look for a sturdy metal zipper (rather than plastic), and thick flaps behind the zipper to prevent water flushes. You would look for the same qualities in a "Shoulder-zip" suit.

Footwear - There are dozens of choices when it comes to beach and water shoes, and many bargains to be found. Look for a shoe that meets your exact needs. It should be metal-free, and as light as possible without sacrificing your overall comfort. Beach hunters can spend four- to six- hours gridding the sand at their local beach. Comfort and breathability are extremely important. Sandals suck in the surf.

Hat - Anyone who spends a lot of time on the beach knows the importance of a quality, long billed cap. There are several things to look for in a good beach detecting cap. Be sure the cap feels comfortable with your headphones and sunglasses on. A cap should be breathable, and offer a sun flap to protect the back of your neck.

Sunglasses - Eye protection should be a top priority while spending long hours in the sun. Extended exposure to reflected light and glare from sand and water can cause real discomfort, and even damage to your eyes.
Beach Detecting Strategies; When and Where to find treasure on the beach

The beach is divided into two-sections - The "Dry Sand" or blanket area, and the "Wet Sand" or swimming area. When detecting the dry sand areas, successful beach hunters "grid" individual sections of the beach. Start by choosing an area 50-feet long, by 50-feet wide. First detect from the North to South. When you have detected the entire grid, turn 90-degrees and detect it again East to West.

Moving slowly and methodically, you will be able to pass your coil over every inch of the 50' x 50' area. Coins, watches, rings, bracelets, Ipods, cell phones, car keys - you'll find it all! The phrase to remember is "low and slow." Keeping your coil as low and flat to the sand as you can, while moving slowly enough to assure your sweeps overlap each other is the real key to success.

For tips on hunting the surf and wet sand remember rings and jewelry are lost in the water during both High, and Low tides. You can get to these treasures much more quickly during Low tide however. At Low tide, get into knee- to thigh- deep water to get to the jewelry that was lost at High tide by people swimming, frolicking, throwing Frisbees, footballs and such. Look for streaks of Black sand on the beach at the waterline. These are always an indicator of where other heavy things like coins and jewelry will be deposited. Many beaches will only have Black sand streaks after a storm, or unusually heavy wave action. Storms uncover things that have been out of reach for many years as the sand gets ripped away. You have to act fast however during low tides, as a couple tide changes can start covering it all up again. Look for hard clay patches that are showing and detect the small depressions that look like miniature potholes.

Hope this helps you, and feel free to PM me with any other questions or explanations.

pinenut · Jun 26, 2017

Thank you, Terry. :icon_thumright:

pinenut · Jun 30, 2017

my SS is here..

..a couple more questions:

How much difference do you notice in battery life between the "preset" and say, the 2-2:30 position? Are there any times when you want to run the SS below the "preset"?

Have any of you SS users made a coil brace to prevent coil flip? I think I'm going to fab something to keep the correct "angle of dangle". Even though the 10½" isn't heavy (weighs about 18oz + cable), it does want to move easily, and that's with the retaining bolt as tight as I dare to make it. I can see how there's no way it would stay put in surf. Not sure why Tesoro doesn't supply a lower rod with a larger eye and a fatter bolt for these water models.. I'll post a pic of the brace I make, if anyone's interested.

Terry Soloman · Jun 30, 2017

I used duct tape when I was first learning technique in the knee- ankle- deep surf. After a few times you'll learn how to manipulate the coil in the surf for much less "flip up" and the coil bolt will tighten from sand abrasion. Don't fret. No battery life difference, but do NOT go past 15-hours on a set of good batteries, because you WILL lose depth for the last 4-5 hours (16-20hrs). Your BEACH will tell you how to set up the Shark. Now go get some! :skullflag:

Stoof2010 · Jul 1, 2017

Now I need a sand shark lol

pinenut · Jul 1, 2017

Stoof2010 said:
Now I need a sand shark lol

I need to drive two hours to play with my SS.
Used to be a ½ mile from the beach when I lived down in Huntington, and I sure do miss it where I am now. I love it up here in the mountains, but there's just something about all those girls in bikinis..
I want to buy a beach house too, but I'll have to find some real treasure first. :tongue3:

Got a coil brace just about made last night. I'll finish it tonight if I get the chance. It's a simple strut made from thin carbon fiber rod and carbon fiber angle. Probably weighs about an ounce or so, and goes from just below the lower pole cam-lock to the front of the coil. It'll be held in place with velcro, so nothing is permanant or damaged. Should do the job; if not, back to the drawing board, as they say.. I'll post a pic when it's finished.

pinenut · Jul 2, 2017

thought I'd share..

..a couple pics of the SS and the lightweight coil brace I made. It's built from carbon fiber rod and angle brackets, cut, then bonded together with JB Weld epoxy. The brace is temporarily held just for pics, as I still need to get some "low profile industrial strength Velcro" to hold it in place at both ends, before the straps go on. The brace weighs only ½oz, yet is plenty stiff enough to keep the coil in place. It basically just "triangulates" the coil mounting at the position I want. Anyway, I hope to get down to the beach with it this coming week and give it a try. If any part of my brace fails, it'll be with the epoxy cracking, which can just be redone as needed.