✅ SOLVED Repro or real

[Tigerdude]

Is this a reproduction or original Thanks.

 

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[traveller777]

Where did you get it? If you bought it, what do you know of provenance?

Some of these guys can likely tell you from looking at it. I am not that good.

 

[ticndig]

I think it's real rust coming through the front is common on real breast plates and seems it would not be done to a fake .

 

[TheCannonballGuy]

That US "eagle breastplate" (shoulder-belt plate) is a genuine Original one, not a reproduction. In this case, the key ID-clue is the small "scaling" corrosion at the edge of the solder back-filler metal. The 1830s-60s Originals were filled with solder, not lead. (But that fact has not stopped relic diggers from constantly calling them "lead-filled" plates.) The difference is important. Lead tends to develop a white patina as it oxidizes in soil and outdoor weather... and the white lead-oxide patina isn't scaly or flaky. But solder corrosion does tend to be flaky/scaly. Also, lead patina is easily faked with acid. That method of faked aging doesn't "work" on solder.

 

[traveller777]

That US "eagle breastplate" (shoulder-belt plate) is a genuine Original one, not a reproduction. In this case, the key ID-clue is the small "scaling" corrosion at the edge of the solder back-filler metal. The 1830s-60s Originals were filled with solder, not lead. (But that fact has not stopped relic diggers from constantly calling them "lead-filled" plates.) The difference is important. Lead tends to develop a white patina as it oxidizes in soil and outdoor weather... and the white lead-oxide patina isn't scaly or flaky. But solder corrosion does tend to be flaky/scaly. Also, lead patina is easily faked with acid. That method of faked aging doesn't "work" on solder.

Great post. Thanks for the education.

 

[Tigerdude]

That US "eagle breastplate" (shoulder-belt plate) is a genuine Original one, not a reproduction. In this case, the key ID-clue is the small "scaling" corrosion at the edge of the solder back-filler metal. The 1830s-60s Originals were filled with solder, not lead. (But that fact has not stopped relic diggers from constantly calling them "lead-filled" plates.) The difference is important. Lead tends to develop a white patina as it oxidizes in soil and outdoor weather... and the white lead-oxide patina isn't scaly or flaky. But solder corrosion does tend to be flaky/scaly. Also, lead patina is easily faked with acid. That method of faked aging doesn't "work" on solder.

Thanks,Cannonball. I wasn’t sure

 

[metaldiggr]

That US "eagle breastplate" (shoulder-belt plate) is a genuine Original one, not a reproduction. In this case, the key ID-clue is the small "scaling" corrosion at the edge of the solder back-filler metal. The 1830s-60s Originals were filled with solder, not lead. (But that fact has not stopped relic diggers from constantly calling them "lead-filled" plates.) The difference is important. Lead tends to develop a white patina as it oxidizes in soil and outdoor weather... and the white lead-oxide patina isn't scaly or flaky. But solder corrosion does tend to be flaky/scaly. Also, lead patina is easily faked with acid. That method of faked aging doesn't "work" on solder.

You the man, CBG!