Rebuilt T80 with a new paintjob. :D

NeoTokyo

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Aug 27, 2012
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Heya everyone;

So I finally got around to painting my T80 after I rebuilt it.
This lil gem was born the same year that I was, 1982.

For those that might notice the head bolts, those are Stainless bolts from Ace Hardware.
*When working with aluminum heads ALWAYS be careful not to strip the threads.* ( I did not, just a reminder. :) )

I chose Silver and overall am happy with the job but the silver isn't as metallic as I had hoped.
I chose the wheel clear coat because it is made to hold up to extreme conditions and heat.
Honestly I should have just gone with the Rustoleum brand Gloss Wheel clear coat because I did not like how the VHT laid down.
I had not had any runs in my primer or my color but the VHT Clear had plenty of runs as you can see in the photos.

As for prep, I used a aircraft brand stripper, then I sanded and picked off most everything that I could.
Some rough spots were left but it doesn't need to be 100% perfect, just better than it was.
I used frog tape for masking and really liked it. I have used several different painters tapes before but Frog tape is the best that I have used.

My material list
*Rustoleum Professional Aluminum Primer
*Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel Paint.
*VHT Clear Gloss wheel clear coat (Recommend going with Rustoleum gloss wheel clear coat)
*Frog Tape
*Aircraft or any other brand paint stripper.
*Sand paper (P120 - P600) I used 3M's P120 Medium Smooths on the tougher paint. Careful though because this will scratch the aluminum easily. This is just for the tough area's the stripper cant take off.
Use finer paper when contacting the aluminum directly.


The before photos are of my friends T80 but mine was in the same external condition.

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Damn, that looks better than new! Nice Work!
 

Thanks guys. :D

The pressure gauge was bought from Lowes and the only side mount in that thread size that I could find and the usual stores.
I wanted a smaller gauge with a 0-100psi reading but this works for now. :)
 

The trouble with painting the T80 is its ability to lose the heat that it generates. Id call Thomas and ask them what kind of paint they used to prevent heat build up while in use. It may not be a issue BUT for me , id want to know BEFORE something happens. you did a real nice job though!!! also its a nice touch using the air pressure gauge as you did. these air compressors fluctuate in pressure as the diaphragm goes up-n-down and you may see the gauge needle fluctuating wildly , if so you may want to get a liquid filled gauge to dampen this fluctuation. and yep its a bit more expensive. I bought a liquid filled vacuum and pressure gauge to check things out. then I take them off.theres nothing like repairing things yourself and then using them! I hope you used anti-seize compound on them threads!!!
 

Everything is all mounted up and pulleys are lined up, I am heading out to buy a belt right now. :D

MMmmmm Looks sooo good. :)

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Russ I 100% agree on the paint but the paint that I removed is thicker than the paint I applied.
I am not sure what kind they used but it was thick and super hard to get off.

I was going to buy a sanding sponge when I go to get my belt and sand the very tops of the fins on the head off so that they are 100% bare.
I am still thinking about doing it to the two large side ears.

As for the Gauge, yup I want a fluid filled one when I buy my permanent gauge.
Harbor Freight has one for about $18 bux but its not the right thread size.

For my pulley size I am running a 6" on the compressor and 4" on the engine.
To bring the T80 to its 1800rpms operating speed the engine will be running at 2700

This is the pulley that I will use for break in.

After break in I am going to switch the engine pulley over to a 6" (and new belt)
I have to read a little more about the power a T80 needs to run though and the predator 212cc having a load at or near idle, so I may go with a 5" pulley.
 

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Neo , two things to consider. #1 youll need some support on the brass pipeing for that gauge! OR itll break the brass nipple! #2 when installing the belt ,I made a belt tensioner to keep the belt properly adjusted at all times , instead of the normal way of just moveing the compressor until the belt is tight. Bill_Saf has my 4 inch dredge now and maybe he could take a picture of that belt tensioner for you. I had a stand alone compressor that had the same tensioner on it. they NEVER had any problems smoking belts!
 

Yeah, I am having a little problem with my belt too.
Its a 30" belt but its too wide and too tight, it was a chore to get it on.
A 31" belt was just a little too loose but a tensioner would have solved that (If I had the room.)
I have been looking for a 30.5" belt that is a little thinner which would work.

I thought about the tensioner and have seen a couple but I don't have the room on my plate at the moment.
I need to weld a plate on the other side of my engine frame to be able to move the engine any further away.

For the Gauge, I am not really following. How will it break? Sorry, its probably right in front of my face but I am being dense right now. lol
 

Neo , two things to consider. #1 youll need some support on the brass pipeing for that gauge! OR itll break the brass nipple! #2 when installing the belt ,I made a belt tensioner to keep the belt properly adjusted at all times , instead of the normal way of just moveing the compressor until the belt is tight. Bill_Saf has my 4 inch dredge now and maybe he could take a picture of that belt tensioner for you. I had a stand alone compressor that had the same tensioner on it. they NEVER had any problems smoking belts!


will do in am

Bill
 

How much tension should be on that belt? Should I be able to move it 1" up and down? Or tighter? Did t seem like it was pushing as much air last time I used it but I didn't notice what felt like a loose belt until we got home.
 

Thanks for sharing the pictures Bill, its giving me an idea of something to try. :thumbsup:
 

How much tension should be on that belt? Should I be able to move it 1" up and down? Or tighter? Did t seem like it was pushing as much air last time I used it but I didn't notice what felt like a loose belt until we got home.

1/4" max with out a tensioner and 1/2" to 3/4" with a tensioner
 

Thanks Bill!
 

This tensioner that's on Bills new dredge keeps the belt in more contact with the pullys for better traction. tightening the belt to tight will ruin compressor bearings and as the belt wears and losens it will go bad sooner. the tensioner will keep the belt in optimum adjustment at all times and will help lengthen the parts lifetime!
 

Do you have the throttle bolt down to 2700? It's impossible to get the right throttle amount without a gauge. For me doing the math at 2 to 1 is easier, I would use either a 3" pulley on the motor or just go straight to a 6" on both and run 1800rpm or less. You can break in the motor on its own at full throttle without the T80. It will definitely save gas. If I remember it only takes 1/3hp to run the T80. I have a small 3hp motor for our Gast and just run a 2 to 1 ratio on the pulleys. You should be able to run it full out at idle on the motor and that would be a 6" on the motor and a 2" on the T80 at 600rpm, you could run all day on one tank of gas if this is what your looking for :)
 

I am going to order a little Tachometer from ebay for it so I know exactly what I am running.

I don't think that I am going to keep the 4" and 6" pulley setup, I am going to go with a 1:1 ratio like Reed suggested and go with another 4" pulley on the compressor.

The engine is broken in and ready to go as soon as I get the compressor setup. :)

I really like how quiet the Predator engine is, my old Briggs was a lot louder.

A friend of mine has a little Honda 2.5hp engine on his WX10 pump that we were talking about using for an ultra light portable hookah setup.

The nice thing about the T80 is that it is just so darn easy to swap between rigs. :D
 

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